Attn Electronics Gurus!!

[sport_20]

Thanks again. (thumb) Just a couple of questions about the latest circuit...

1. Are the components with NC and NO the transistors?
2. What is the "M" represent
3. How much is the specs of the part relevant (I mean there are tons of relays and transistors out there.

Cheers and I will definetely be trying this soonish as I left my windows down again last night

Here is the newest rev of the circuit:

It shows both a switch, or transistor activation.

 

[ZapWizard]

Ok, let me explain the circuit:

All the parts at the Right are the existing car switches.
They represent the passanger-side part of the circuit, the C/O switches at the top are the Driver's side controls for the passanger window.
The two switches at the bottom, are the Passanger-side controls for the window.
(C =Close, O=Open)

The M, is the power window Motor.

But the only part you are "Hacking" is the 'close' part of the passanger-side switch.

Ok now for the rest:
Q is the transistor, this would need a single pulse out from the alarm circuit to activate the auto-circuit.
If the pulse is held on longer it won't hurt, as the limit switch will kill the entire circuit once the window is fully rolled up.

RLY1 is the Auto-Latching relay.
It turns on when the "Push to activate" button, or the transistor is pulsed.
It will stay until the limit switch is tripped, or any "Open" button is pushed.

RLY2 is the relay that controls the closing of the window.
It is wired to replace the close part of the passanger-side switch.
(It functions identical as if you were pressing the switch to 'close')

The relays are both SPDT relays, and should activate on +12volts, and handle at least 5-10 amps of power at 12VDC.

The old close switch is then re-wired to turn that relay on.
That way you don't loose functionality of the old switch.

The system is safe as any of four switches can disable the circuit:
-Limit, -Disable, -Open (Driver's side), -Open (Passanger's side)

Anytime the window is closed (limit switch is open), the entire auto circuit is disabled and there is zero current draw on the car battery.

Also the switches for the windows will still function like they used to.

I hope to try and actualy build this later, but I got other mods in line.

 

[Poseur]

Hey, look for an orange output wire on your alarm, I believe it's an acc ground that is used as a switch. It's what you would wire in a acessory scanner or whatever else to. (might be a small +12v current) this will eliminate any possible current draw issues with your LED (alot of times thay have strange things going on with them as well)

 

[ZapWizard]

One more thing that may make this easier to take in:

This should be able to be installed with by just cutting some wires that normaly run to the switch.

Basicly two wires will need to be cut, and integrated into the circuit.
And two wires will need to be Tapped into (Not cut, but tapped into)

All wires needed run to the passanger side-switch, and the switch also has +12volts on one of the wires, so this entire circuit could be contained with-in the Passanger-side door.

The wires needed are as follows:
(Wire lettering taken from the service manual)
A and B wire are cut, and re-wired
(A) From drivers side to 'N/C' on RLY2
(A) From passanger switch to 'No connection'
(B) From passanger switch to +12volt side of RLY2
(B) To window motor to 'Pole' on RLY2

C and F wires are tapped into, but not cut:
(C) wire to 'Limit switch' and 'Disable' switch
(F) wire to 'N/O' on RLY2

If you don't know where the service manual is, PM me

Note: The driver's side will be similar, but slightly different, as the driver's side window is already controlled by a relay

 

[sport_20]

I have read through that first explaination and think I may just about have it sorted (Cheers). One other thing I would like (just to make it perfect) would be to have the arrangment so that the front windows will go up first (if they are not already) then once the reed switch is tripped it allows the rear windows to go up. This way there is no chance of fuses blowing. Cool. Thanks again. (crazy)

One more thing that may make this easier to take in:

This should be able to be installed with by just cutting some wires that normaly run to the switch.

Basicly two wires will need to be cut, and integrated into the circuit.
And two wires will need to be Tapped into (Not cut, but tapped into)

All wires needed run to the passanger side-switch, and the switch also has +12volts on one of the wires, so this entire circuit could be contained with-in the Passanger-side door.

The wires needed are as follows:
(Wire lettering taken from the service manual)
A and B wire are cut, and re-wired
(A) From drivers side to 'N/C' on RLY2
(A) From passanger switch to 'No connection'
(B) From passanger switch to +12volt side of RLY2
(B) To window motor to 'Pole' on RLY2

C and F wires are tapped into, but not cut:
(C) wire to 'Limit switch' and 'Disable' switch
(F) wire to 'N/O' on RLY2

If you don't know where the service manual is, PM me

Note: The driver's side will be similar, but slightly different, as the driver's side window is already controlled by a relay

 

[ZapWizard]

Here is a totaly re-drawn schematic that should make it easier to understand what wire goes where.
The lettering is from the service manual.

(The driver side, refers to the driver's control of the other windows)

You can duplicate this circuit for all the windows, except the driver's side switch.
The driver's side switch uses a relay, and it should actualy be easier to wire into this, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

-------------
I like the cascading idea, where the fronts go up first, then the back windows.

The easiest way to do this would be to use an additional reed switch (Independent of the Auto circuit)
The second reed switch would simply switch power to the rear window's automatic circuit.
(You would need to run a wire from the front windows to the back windows)