SayNoToPistons
Wheels, not rims...
- :
- CX-5 GT AWD w/ Tech, RX-8 GT 6spd w/ 'goodies'
Well, in that case.
Good choices.
Good choices.
Anyone did a complete Exterior Detailling on their CX-5?
- Thread starter philzzz
- Start date
My car came with plenty of DISO (dealer installed swirl option) so Ive been planning on doing a light correction on it.
I really like meguiars line of products. Ive been using their tan bottle pro line products for years and gotten very good results. (see my old 99 miata thread for a great paint rescue)
Ive heard raves about their new consumer ultimate line though, so I picked up some ultimate polish and ultimate wax, a couple new foam pads and planned to go over the car with my porter cable.
however, was short on time with a rainstorm pending so I used a single step Pinnacle XMT 360. First time using a single step, I originally bought it to do cars that I dont want to spend much time on like my truck or wife's car.
Not overly impressed with it, but I guess I shouldnt have had high expectations with a single step.
I used a polishing pad but it still didnt do much correction, and the gloss at the end wasnt as good as a true sealant or wax.
this was before I did the wheels or tires
I really like meguiars line of products. Ive been using their tan bottle pro line products for years and gotten very good results. (see my old 99 miata thread for a great paint rescue)
Ive heard raves about their new consumer ultimate line though, so I picked up some ultimate polish and ultimate wax, a couple new foam pads and planned to go over the car with my porter cable.
however, was short on time with a rainstorm pending so I used a single step Pinnacle XMT 360. First time using a single step, I originally bought it to do cars that I dont want to spend much time on like my truck or wife's car.
Not overly impressed with it, but I guess I shouldnt have had high expectations with a single step.
I used a polishing pad but it still didnt do much correction, and the gloss at the end wasnt as good as a true sealant or wax.
this was before I did the wheels or tires
Don't be silly its a bloke pushing a pram/pushchair .
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runtohell121
Member
- :
- 2014 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD Soul Red
Do you guys detail outside of your garage or inside?
I wash it in the shade or inside, depending on the weather. Then bring it inside for clay, wax, etc.
runtohell121
Member
- :
- 2014 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD Soul Red
I'm wanting to detail my car(s) but can't park a car in the garage.. and not much shade outside.
I prefer to wash outside, and pull it into the garage to use the buffer.
But if Im in a hurry or just doing 1 pass then Ill do it in the driveway.
If youre stuck outside, do it on an overcast day, or early evening when the sun is low.
and fwiw, pinnacle claims you can use their products in full sun.
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- :
- CX-5 T
yes, 2006 Exige
(replaced my 99 miata, though I miss the miata sometimes!)
I miss my '91 Miata too... Better job lured me away from the Miata to a Bimmer. That was the good ole days when I used to have a job, now retired with my CX.
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- :
- CX-5 T
So does Turtle wax. Not too sure about it's longevity, have you tested the Pinnacle?
SayNoToPistons
Wheels, not rims...
- :
- CX-5 GT AWD w/ Tech, RX-8 GT 6spd w/ 'goodies'
Turtle Wax is the bottom of the barrel... I swear I posted someone on this forum (or this thread) concerning TW. There shouldn't be a comparison between Pinnacle and TW products, or even most of Meg's consumer line VS TW. Practically comparing a four star restaurant that requires reservation to a McCafe.
- :
- CX-5 T
Funny response and sorry I brought it up. My background is more on the non detailing side of things and I have rarely waxed any of my cars. Example: My 3 year old Black Civic was professionally waxed only once per year and never garaged. But I am going to make a change and invest in my new retirement vehicle. Getting good advice here but not sure if I am ready to buy rotary gear and wet sand anything just yet.
Now if I garage the CX, how often should I wax it since I am retired and only drive ~300 miles per month? Is it like oil changes that get done regularly regardless of the miles?
SayNoToPistons
Wheels, not rims...
- :
- CX-5 GT AWD w/ Tech, RX-8 GT 6spd w/ 'goodies'
No problem. As an avid detailer (did it during my later highschool and early college years as a side gig), it irks me to see how some try to take care of their cars but end up doing more harm than good. In reality, most of the minor damages to the finish of a car is own by the owner. Could be improper washing, waxing, or combination of both. I see cars as a large investment, much like a house. One would try to use the best to finish and clean their house to prolong its condition and value, right? Same for cars.
Turtle Wax hasn't made anything worthy of purchase for a few decades. Reason it is so popular to this day is simply because its name sells. Much of its formula is at least a few decades old, dating back to the 50's and 60's. For example, its popular "Hard Shell" line of products. There are simply better products one could buy off the counter at any parts store, Walmart, Target, etc. Meguiar's and Mother's have a good line for typical consumers.
I would skip the wet sanding, without a doubt. Yes, there are orange peels (micro unevenness in the paint), but that is not a concern with a well taken care of finish. Remember, there is only a certain amount of paint/clearcoat to work with. Literally around ~100-150 microns of material. Wetsanding will significantly diminish allowable work material.
Any basic finish maintenance should consist of a good wash detergent. Meguiar's Gold Class wash can be bought at almost every store, along with Meguiar's Deep Crystal wash. I much prefer Gold Class because it keeps suds longer and much better lubrication. Grab a good washmitt. Could be a dedicated sheep skin wool mitt, microfiber mitt, or even a soft grout sponge from Home Depot. Do not bother with chenille, towel, other sponges, and especially BRUSHES. Also use the two bucket formula. One for clean soapy water, and the other with just plain water to rinse the mitt after wiping down each panel. Dry only using a clean microfiber mitt. A lot of the damage to the finish is done in the drying process. The idea is to keep abrasion of the paint to a minimal. Even with modern clearcoats, the finish is EXTREMELY delicate. Improper techniques will quickly lead to marring of the paint, swirls (micro scratches) and possibly scratch, which is ultimately a flawed finish of the paint. That will require polishing to even out the flaws, which we are trying to avoid. This refers back to the allowable material to work with, and with any abrasion (including abrasives such as polishes), it removes the material.
Next is a surface prep for protection of the paint. Claybars. A claybar is lightly rubbed on the surface of the paint, removing contamination. Could be sap, iron fall out, pollen, etc. These contaminates embed itself into the paint and usually cannot be removed by just washing. Think of it as exfoliating your skin. Then there is protect of the fresh clean and exfoliated paint. There are natural waxes and there are SEALANTS, which in other words are "synthetic waxes". Both usually provide different levels of protection and shine appearance. Natural waxes usually doesn't last as long, but leaves the paint looking very wet with significantly more depth. Sealants have a much brighter and clearer shine, and lasts much longer due to the ingredients used- polymers and acrylics. Many layer sealant first, then top it with a wax for a combination of durability and depth. There are SO many products out there, the combinations are endless.
If you INSIST on getting polishes, which are abrasive and correct flaws in the paint for better appearance. I suggest a dual action polisher instead of a rotary. A rotary has VERY HEAVY cutting power and is often unnecessary.
This is the basics of taking care of a car's finish. I have left out a lot of things as it would take a few hours to type it all out. There are cleaners for wheels, different brushes for different applications, protectant for plastics, cleaners/conditioners for interiors, towels, etc etc. All this you can explore yourself by going to detailing forums. www.autopia.org is a great place to start and it is actually where many detailers have started.
BTW, my new favorite off the counter sealant is Meguiar's Ultimate Wax Liquid. Yes, it says wax purely because of marketing for the general consumer. Reason it is my new favorite sealant is because it has very good durability and more importantly, it doesn't stain trim. It also has decent amounts of fillers which fills in the swirls and hides them. Not a permanent fix, but works well for those who want a great finish on their daily driver dark colored cars.
Turtle Wax hasn't made anything worthy of purchase for a few decades. Reason it is so popular to this day is simply because its name sells. Much of its formula is at least a few decades old, dating back to the 50's and 60's. For example, its popular "Hard Shell" line of products. There are simply better products one could buy off the counter at any parts store, Walmart, Target, etc. Meguiar's and Mother's have a good line for typical consumers.
I would skip the wet sanding, without a doubt. Yes, there are orange peels (micro unevenness in the paint), but that is not a concern with a well taken care of finish. Remember, there is only a certain amount of paint/clearcoat to work with. Literally around ~100-150 microns of material. Wetsanding will significantly diminish allowable work material.
Any basic finish maintenance should consist of a good wash detergent. Meguiar's Gold Class wash can be bought at almost every store, along with Meguiar's Deep Crystal wash. I much prefer Gold Class because it keeps suds longer and much better lubrication. Grab a good washmitt. Could be a dedicated sheep skin wool mitt, microfiber mitt, or even a soft grout sponge from Home Depot. Do not bother with chenille, towel, other sponges, and especially BRUSHES. Also use the two bucket formula. One for clean soapy water, and the other with just plain water to rinse the mitt after wiping down each panel. Dry only using a clean microfiber mitt. A lot of the damage to the finish is done in the drying process. The idea is to keep abrasion of the paint to a minimal. Even with modern clearcoats, the finish is EXTREMELY delicate. Improper techniques will quickly lead to marring of the paint, swirls (micro scratches) and possibly scratch, which is ultimately a flawed finish of the paint. That will require polishing to even out the flaws, which we are trying to avoid. This refers back to the allowable material to work with, and with any abrasion (including abrasives such as polishes), it removes the material.
Next is a surface prep for protection of the paint. Claybars. A claybar is lightly rubbed on the surface of the paint, removing contamination. Could be sap, iron fall out, pollen, etc. These contaminates embed itself into the paint and usually cannot be removed by just washing. Think of it as exfoliating your skin. Then there is protect of the fresh clean and exfoliated paint. There are natural waxes and there are SEALANTS, which in other words are "synthetic waxes". Both usually provide different levels of protection and shine appearance. Natural waxes usually doesn't last as long, but leaves the paint looking very wet with significantly more depth. Sealants have a much brighter and clearer shine, and lasts much longer due to the ingredients used- polymers and acrylics. Many layer sealant first, then top it with a wax for a combination of durability and depth. There are SO many products out there, the combinations are endless.
If you INSIST on getting polishes, which are abrasive and correct flaws in the paint for better appearance. I suggest a dual action polisher instead of a rotary. A rotary has VERY HEAVY cutting power and is often unnecessary.
This is the basics of taking care of a car's finish. I have left out a lot of things as it would take a few hours to type it all out. There are cleaners for wheels, different brushes for different applications, protectant for plastics, cleaners/conditioners for interiors, towels, etc etc. All this you can explore yourself by going to detailing forums. www.autopia.org is a great place to start and it is actually where many detailers have started.
BTW, my new favorite off the counter sealant is Meguiar's Ultimate Wax Liquid. Yes, it says wax purely because of marketing for the general consumer. Reason it is my new favorite sealant is because it has very good durability and more importantly, it doesn't stain trim. It also has decent amounts of fillers which fills in the swirls and hides them. Not a permanent fix, but works well for those who want a great finish on their daily driver dark colored cars.
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Thanks SayNoToPistons, this advice helps a lot.
A couple of weeks ago I took my new car to a car wash (hand wash) to get it clean.
Following that, I clayed the hood and a front panels with Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay kit. I didn't notice anything coming off on the clay, so I decided not the clay the entire car. Should I have noticed contaminants come off on the clay either visually or by feel? Did I make a mistake in not claying the entire car?
Next, I applied Meguiar's Ultimate Wax liquid (I think I read this suggestion in another thread). I really liked this product...easy application, great shine, and no stain on the trim. Water beads very nicely now. How long should I expect this protection to last (I park it outside)?
Thanks!
-stumbles
A couple of weeks ago I took my new car to a car wash (hand wash) to get it clean.
Following that, I clayed the hood and a front panels with Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay kit. I didn't notice anything coming off on the clay, so I decided not the clay the entire car. Should I have noticed contaminants come off on the clay either visually or by feel? Did I make a mistake in not claying the entire car?
Next, I applied Meguiar's Ultimate Wax liquid (I think I read this suggestion in another thread). I really liked this product...easy application, great shine, and no stain on the trim. Water beads very nicely now. How long should I expect this protection to last (I park it outside)?
Thanks!
-stumbles
- :
- CX-5 T
I know nothing so I don't insist on anyhting of the sort. Thanks for the info, I will get the items you suggested and give it a try since I get bird droppings (hundreds of trees in my neighborhood). If I mess things up, then take to a pro to fix it. The CX is less than 2 weeks old, when do you suggest I wax it since the water is still beading. Do I wait until it no longer beads or should I be pro active and do it regardless?
SayNoToPistons
Wheels, not rims...
- :
- CX-5 GT AWD w/ Tech, RX-8 GT 6spd w/ 'goodies'
Glad I could help! Makes me feel better that there's one more well kept Mazda out there.
Seeing contaminates on the claybar really depends on the color of the bar. They come in white, purple, yellow, and all sorts of colors. The ligther the color, the easier it is to see build up collected. Generally I like to claybar right after I wash. Rinse the car, but no need to dry. Run the soapy wash mitt 2 sq ft at a time instead of wasting quick detailing spray as lube. Clay only that 1-2 sq ft area at a single time, going in LIGHT side to side motion. Check the surface for any bumps. If there are, continue until they are gone, then move to the next section. I wouldn't say you made a mistake, but usually the frontal areas and the roof collect the most contaminates. I would clay the entire car the next time just in case. It wouldn't hurt to do so.
Meg's UW can last up to 3-4 months with one single application. Remember, it is a SYNTHETIC SEALANT, therefore it can be LAYERED. Allow 24 hours for each layer to cure before applying the next. More layers obviously mean more protection.
You're welcome. Before making any purchase, I highly suggest you read up on www.autopia.org. Somewhere in there is a huge collection of "how-to's" with a lot of information on what products to choose and how to use them. I have no association with autopia, but it really is a great site on professional up keeping of a car's surface, inside and out.
Natural waxes usually last a 1-3 months, while synthetic sealants will last 2-4 months. It all depends on what products you choose. Generally I like to apply another layer of sealant or wax every other month because I am anal about lack of protection on my cars. It may be overkill. Before every winter, I will clay the entire car, stripping the sealant/waxes and reseal for optimal protection. I repeat the process again mid spring.
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runtohell121
Member
- :
- 2014 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD Soul Red
What are some good and somewhat inexpensive microfiber towels to get for detailing? I think I have like 3 Meguiar's Supreme Shine MF and a lot of Costco MF, but probably should be using nicer MF I assume, been searching online and found mixed results.
