Anyone did a complete Exterior Detailling on their CX-5?

P

philzzz

Member
:
Mazda CX-5 GS AWD 2014
I just ordered myself a Porter Cable 7424xp dual action polisher with 6,5 pad kit + 4.5 pad kits
I will be using meguiar product more specificly meguiar ultimate polish and ultimate paste wax

I plan to do the job next week, ill post up some pictures
-wash
-clay bar
-wash
-polish
-wax

That might take a while but oh well, that what detailling is all about
 
philzzz said:
I just ordered myself a Porter Cable 7424xp dual action polisher with 6,5 pad kit + 4.5 pad kits
I will be using meguiar product more specificly meguiar ultimate polish and ultimate paste wax

I plan to do the job next week, ill post up some pictures
-wash
-clay bar
-wash
-polish
-wax

That might take a while but oh well, that what detailling is all about
Click to expand...

My car is available anytime if you want to work on two CX-5s ;)
 
For how quickly the car gets dirty again around here (we constantly have dust) doing this kind of detailing makes about as much sense as a screen door on a submarine. Right now I am pretty sure that my dust has a layer of dust on it.
 
I'm a member over at www.autopia.org and have been detailing since 2005.

I have a Black Mica, and we all know how revealing to flaws black is. Especially swirls/marring. I had dealer wash induced marring when I picked up the car new. I took care of that with Meguiar's #80 and a PC.

Here are my usual steps for the exterior:

Wash- 2 bucket formula, grit guard, sheeps skin wools mitt, Meguiar's Gold Class wash.
Clay Bar- No need yet
Polish- Meg's #80 with PC and LC 6" polishing pad works for fine marring
Wax/Sealant- Poorboy's EX-P topped with Natty's original.

Obviously, be VERY careful with staining the trim with polishes, glazes, and wax/sealants. There is a hell lot of easily stainable plastic moldings on the exterior. Masking helps, but little areas like the rear spoiler, front windshield cowl trim, mirrors, and front bumper can be a b****.

It being black never looks perfect for longer than a few days. I still wash it once a week and seal it once a month. I rather not let the dirt/dust build up because that just ends up inducing marring when I do wash it. That means I have to break out the polish and glaze again, which takes up more time than washing it often.
 
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The Dual Action ones are pretty much idiot proof. They tend to take longer to get the results but there is no risk of burning the paint like with a rotary polisher.

I've had one for about 10 years now and my biggest problem is not spending long enough on each section of paint.

I used to call what I do to my car detailing, until I started reading those forums. Now I just call it cleaning up or polishing. The pro's on there are on a whole different level.

I clayed mine to get the metal contaminates out of the paint, did a quick polish (got it from the dealer before they could swill it) and a coat of Opticoat 2.0
 
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You would have to hard press a dual action on one specific spot for more than a minute at speed 6 with heavy abrasives and a cutting pad to do any damage... Granted it does 90% work of a rotary polisher at perhaps 75% of the efficiency.
 
Largely dependent on how much effort you'd put into refreshing/protecting the car and how much you want to spend doing so.
 
before you buy anything I'd recommend reading, reading and more reading:

www.autopia.org
or
http://www.autogeekonline.net/'
or
www.detailingbliss.com

There are lots of good tips there and people that will answer questions about your particular car. The polishes chosen depend on the paint, the level of damage and the final product you are willing to work towards.

Be warned though each new product thread you read will tempt you to buy that product as everyone raves about it, don't do that. Keep the credit card in your wallet for several days and just see what the pros use and what gets recommended. Then start a thread about your car and see what they suggest. You'll spend more than the kit linked above but it will be worth it if you put in the research first.

Also it is worth contacting the stores related to the 3 forums listed to see what the people there recommend. The plus with that is if you buy what they recommend you can call them for tips when using it.
 
White Lake Country closed cell 6.5" since it was only fine swirls/marring and I was using #80.
 
Very successful results with the following method:

Wash = Duragloss wash concentrate

Clay bar = Claymagic (and yes it is worth doing even on a new car days old!)

Wax 2 coats = Collinite 845 (Collinite is a word of mouth product, its fantastic stuff! lasts at least 4 months and its great on the cx-5's exterior plastics. Do yourself a favour and Google this stuff!)

All done by hand.

After each wash I also boost the wax with Duragloss Aqua wax.
 
Any one have a preference between Meguair's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo and Conditioner or Meguair's Ultimate Wash & Wax?
 
The wash and wax solutions are garbage and ineffective to provide adequate protection... Please read up on autopia or any other detailing forum suggested.
 
Alrightly... Curious as to what you bought since you completely ignored suggestions.
 
Didn't you suggest to look on the forums? Well I did... and decided to purchase:
Gilmour Foamaster II
Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss
Chemical Guys Diablo Gel
Plus some other supplies... buckets, grit guards, microfiber wash mitts, drying towel, etc.
 
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