Anybody else feel funky downshift while sitting at a stop light?

What's the build date? (found on a sticker along the driver's door sill) The similar reports here of this involved 2016 models. Hopefully it's just a firmware/calibration issue that is quick to resolve.

Looks like 10/14. I'm hoping you're right~
 
I'll try to pay more attention but I can't say I have ever noticed this with mine....or if I did it was just acknowledgement it was normal. I realize this AT is a huge hybrid of standard slushbox.
 
Felt it occasionally with my first trans and feel it occasionally with my second trans, maybe once every couple of months. It's nothing that really bothers me and I'm pretty sure if I bring it to the dealer it's gonna be a "can't replicate problem" scenario. So...meh!
 
Update: 1st: my 2016 AWD GT has NO rear jerk or bump in any stop or red signal. However, I have started noticing a lag when I press gas and I am in D. The car takes a bit of time to wake up and move. Next, assume I am already cruising and need to accelerate and press gas - again a noticeable lag before the car starts reacting. Finally, for acceleration itself, I am having to depress the pedal more than before.

ALL of the above - after dealer reviewed, spoke with Mazda is attributed to how Mazda designed their transmission. It learns driver habits and accordingly tunes itself. In other words, as soon as the dealer performed a ECU reset and everything switched back to default, all lags disappeared. It seems I am a gentle driver, i.e. I don't floor gas pedals, slowly accelerate, etc., etc. and the ECU tuned itself accordingly - all with a priority towards fuel savings.

This is advanced engineering/algorithms. Other cars do the same but in Mazda there's noticeable difference. My only complaint is mileage has actually dropped. For now I am attributing it to cold weather, old engine oil. Let's see..................... now that oil's changed and weather's warmer.
 
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Update: 1st: my 2016 AWD GT has NO rear jerk or bump in any stop or red signal. However, I have started noticing a lag when I press gas and I am in D. The car takes a bit of time to wake up and move. Next, assume I am already cruising and need to accelerate and press gas - again a noticeable lag before the car starts reacting. Finally, for acceleration itself, I am having to depress the pedal more than before.

ALL of the above - after dealer reviewed, spoke with Mazda is attributed to how Mazda designed their transmission. It learns driver habits and accordingly tunes itself. In other words, as soon as the dealer performed a ECU reset and everything switched back to default, all lags disappeared. It seems I am a gentle driver, i.e. I don't floor gas pedals, slowly accelerate, etc., etc. and the ECU tuned itself accordingly - all with a priority towards fuel savings.

This is advanced engineering/algorithms. Other cars do the same but in Mazda there's noticeable difference. My only complaint is mileage has actually dropped. For now I am attributing it to cold weather, old engine oil. Let's see..................... now that oil's changed and weather's warmer.

Just curious - Couldn't an owner do such a reset at home if they had disconnected the battery and let the vehicle sit for say 15 mins, then reconnect the battery? Wouldn't that reset the ECU as well?
 
Just curious - Couldn't an owner do such a reset at home if they had disconnected the battery and let the vehicle sit for say 15 mins, then reconnect the battery? Wouldn't that reset the ECU as well?

Yes, disconnect, pump brake +5 times, reconnect. Then one MUST start the car and let it idle for few minutes for the ECU to re-learn.

MikeM mentioned about another way to reset: foot on brake, press push start to stop and then again push start to start while continuing to have the brake depressed and gear @ park.
I might have mis-understood this 2nd. process, only he can comment.
 
MikeM mentioned about another way to reset: foot on brake, press push start to stop and then again push start to start while continuing to have the brake depressed and gear @ park.
I might have mis-understood this 2nd. process, only he can comment.

That seems waaay too easy to do by accident. I think you might be missing something...
 
Yes, disconnect, pump brake +5 times, reconnect. Then one MUST start the car and let it idle for few minutes for the ECU to re-learn.

MikeM mentioned about another way to reset: foot on brake, press push start to stop and then again push start to start while continuing to have the brake depressed and gear @ park.
I might have mis-understood this 2nd. process, only he can comment.

I never said anything of the sort. Completely false information. I don't even have a clue what you are referring to.
 
All you meed to do is remove the negative terminal, then use any residual power... turn on the light, honk the horn etc.. reconnect and done. There is no time limit.
 
I had a rather harsh experience with this today. I was at a stoplight and my foot must have been on the brake and touching the gas pedal at the same time (I notice that the gas pedal is about the same height as the brake when depressed) because I heard the RPMs start to climb, took my foot off the brake at that moment (light turned green) and the transmission engaged (reengaged??) and it felt like someone slammed me from behind. I knew I wasn’t hit because the guy behind me was a good distance away. Was a pretty shocking experience. I guess there’ll be no doing linelocks with this vehicle, lol.
 
Very subtle, I believe the SkyActiv transmission disengages at stops and then re-engages when you lift off the brake. You must add that my CX-5 has i-Stop so my car makes several movements at stops but its ok. Its working as intended.
 
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