Any 450 to 500hp Mazdaspeed proteges out there?

@Lara - here's a list of all the dynos I could find that are around your boost level with similar mods. With the exception of the one car from Beau, the rest of them are putting down the same numbers you are. Nothing to cry over.


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Basic Mods:
MAM Block: 8.5:1 CR
Turbo: Stock GT25R
Exhaust: GHL 3" DP/Midpipe (Catted), 2.5" JIC Catback
Intake: Injen CAI
FMIC: Perrin w/SSQV
EMS: Microtech LT8S (Dirty WRX 440cc's)
MISC: Ported intake manifold, removed VTCS, slight head polish (gasket match).

92 Octane 14PSI Spike settle to 12PSI.
Mustang Dyno

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123614118

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MAM kit - 296whp @ 15psi
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=108718

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256whp @ 14psi w/ hiboost
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112897

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243whp @ 14psi
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113076
 
Thats the point. I occasionally get to 15 psi, but thats after the car has been sitting, say for a day or two. But after it warms up, it gets to about 6psi and if I dump it, maybe 10 although it's set to 15. It feels more or less that the car is giving it what it can, but I hear more motor than anything else. No boost surge coming from the turbo except for every now and then. There's no consistancy.

I don't even know when or where it was that he got to 240whp numbers from. I don't have the sheets to look at. I'm going by what he said it made on the dyno and I'm not sure what kind of dyno he took it to.

I'm not expecting 400whp... farrrr from it. Hey, I know what the limits on this car are, and I'd like to get to 270+. Not exactly 300. But not 240 either. With 8:5:1, 440 injectors, ported and polished head, pistons, rods, rings, studs, MAM manifold, 3" dp and exaust without cats, full stand alone, MAM hard pipes and FMIC, GT-28RS... you'd think I'd get more out of it than what it's done.

Also... why the loss from 253 to 247 after just a month from the previous dyno? There's just some things that don't add up. It would be one thing if it was consistant. It's another thing when you have boost spikes, an irratic idle and mostly 6psi driving around town when it's set to 15psi.
 
You defanitly have some car issue to workout dall lol :) keep us updated.

laracroft said:
Thats the point. I occasionally get to 15 psi, but thats after the car has been sitting, say for a day or two. But after it warms up, it gets to about 6psi and if I dump it, maybe 10 although it's set to 15. It feels more or less that the car is giving it what it can, but I hear more motor than anything else. No boost surge coming from the turbo except for every now and then. There's no consistancy.

I don't even know when or where it was that he got to 240whp numbers from. I don't have the sheets to look at. I'm going by what he said it made on the dyno and I'm not sure what kind of dyno he took it to.

I'm not expecting 400whp... farrrr from it. Hey, I know what the limits on this car are, and I'd like to get to 270+. Not exactly 300. But not 240 either. With 8:5:1, 440 injectors, ported and polished head, pistons, rods, rings, studs, MAM manifold, 3" dp and exaust without cats, full stand alone, MAM hard pipes and FMIC, GT-28RS... you'd think I'd get more out of it than what it's done.

Also... why the loss from 253 to 247 after just a month from the previous dyno? There's just some things that don't add up. It would be one thing if it was consistant. It's another thing when you have boost spikes, an irratic idle and mostly 6psi driving around town when it's set to 15psi.
 
laracroft---
if you are so unsatisfied with the ems than why dont u get something else and a decent electronic boost controller.
 
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yoooooo

so this is the turbo i might be going with to hit the 400hp range click on the link. this msp is gonna be a 325-350hp every day car. but i will have it tuned so i can bring it to the track turn up the boost and put some slicks on it to hit 400hp and prolly low 12s. it will have full 3in turbo back exhuast mam tubular manifold and the tranny will have to be streghtin, also im looking in the a forged block from mam and heads and cams also custom set up for this build. im prolly going with a perrin fmic with a hks ssqv also a perrin intake prolly a stage 3 hybrid clutch and cut flywheel, and short throw, all new motor mounts and one hell of a tune. also looking into gearing and some cv joints from driveshaft.com.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT30/GT3071R_700382_20.htm
 
laracroft said:
Thats the point. I occasionally get to 15 psi, but thats after the car has been sitting, say for a day or two. But after it warms up, it gets to about 6psi and if I dump it, maybe 10 although it's set to 15.

WTF? What are you using for boost control?

If this is the case, there's no way you have anywhere near 250whp @10psi.

I don't even know when or where it was that he got to 240whp numbers from. I don't have the sheets to look at. I'm going by what he said it made on the dyno and I'm not sure what kind of dyno he took it to.

Gotcha.

Also... why the loss from 253 to 247 after just a month from the previous dyno?

On whose car? Yours?

FWIW, a 6whp loss isn't a big deal. Cars will pull different numbers each time you run them. Anyone who has spent enough time on a dyno can tell you that. There are a million factors that influence power, and they all add up, even if you don't change anything. But the biggest factor is ambient temp, etc. A month ago was cooler that it is now, so that alone could easily account for a measley 6whp loss. My car in the summer vs the winter is probably a good 30whp difference on the same tune. Welcome to boost.

There's just some things that don't add up. It would be one thing if it was consistant. It's another thing when you have boost spikes, an irratic idle and mostly 6psi driving around town when it's set to 15psi.

That just sounds like hardware issues/a bad tune. She definitely needs some work.
 
I think she is still using the unichip right? dump that and use a better ems system and someone good at tuning and the car should easily be 300whp
 
hwkspeed said:
so this is the turbo i might be going with to hit the 400hp range click on the link. this msp is gonna be a 325-350hp every day car. but i will have it tuned so i can bring it to the track turn up the boost and put some slicks on it to hit 400hp and prolly low 12s. it will have full 3in turbo back exhuast mam tubular manifold and the tranny will have to be streghtin, also im looking in the a forged block from mam and heads and cams also custom set up for this build. im prolly going with a perrin fmic with a hks ssqv also a perrin intake prolly a stage 3 hybrid clutch and cut flywheel, and short throw, all new motor mounts and one hell of a tune. also looking into gearing and some cv joints from driveshaft.com.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT30/GT3071R_700382_20.htm

That turbo should do the trick.

I've heard that MAM is stopping production of the Tubular manis, so I'm not sure about that. They are damn nice though.

Not sure when you want your car to be done, but I will be selling some fully built motors within the next few weeks. I can also do any install or tuning you need done. I'm about 45 mins from Brick.
 
tekkie said:
I think she is still using the unichip right? dump that and use a better ems system and someone good at tuning and the car should easily be 300whp

She's on the haltech.
 
Kooldino said:
She's on the haltech.

oh yeah good point, something is not right for sure there should be way more power than that I made 254whp on the stock turbo at 10psi when I tuned my emanage

at 15psi and 94 octane that thing should be at least 280whp
 
ghettobubba2001 said:
she could have problems with her wga? or possible restrictions on the haltech....


i agree that the wga might be broken. Mine was, I replaced it with an atp wastegate actuator and my car finally runs better than ever. Lara, check out a new actuator at atp, they sell them for $60 or something like that.
 
sandspeed said:
i agree that the wga might be broken. Mine was, I replaced it with an atp wastegate actuator and my car finally runs better than ever. Lara, check out a new actuator at atp, they sell them for $60 or something like that.


how would you know its broken?
 
YellowSpeedInNY said:
how would you know its broken?


well....i couldn't hold boost due to the broken actuator. When i took the stock actuator off the rod was really loose , it had lost its tension. Also, your boost spike would eventually become really high too
 
Well, my next step is changing the wastegate entirely. I'll be doing that myself come next weekend. If that doesn't change things, then I'll move on to something else. And right now I have an TurboXS MBC. The tuner didn't give me the sylenoid that's needed to run the EBC from Haltech.

Oh yeah and the loss wouldn't be such a huge deal if it weren't for it being in the same month of March. Wasn't much temp. changing there. But I know right now it would be a much bigger change and it'd act worse since it's 90 degrees outside. Turbo's no likie hot, humid weather.
 
sandspeed said:
well....i couldn't hold boost due to the broken actuator. When i took the stock actuator off the rod was really loose , it had lost its tension. Also, your boost spike would eventually become really high too
Yup. This is what happened to Alejo on here. His broke and he was spiking to 15psi on a stock MSP at the track. We told him to check it and sure enough, it was broken. But he WAS happy with his numbers for a little while there, just glad that he found it out in time. But even still, he did hella better than I did at the track with his stocker. :(
 
tekkie said:
oh yeah good point, something is not right for sure there should be way more power than that I made 254whp on the stock turbo at 10psi when I tuned my emanage

That sounds abnormally high. What kind of dyno was this on?
 
laracroft said:
I'm not downgrading to just fuel and letting the stock ECU handle the timing. I spent more money on it, so I'm just going to leave it the way it is until I get it tuned.

The reason why Superprotege's car runs so great, is that they gutted it, put slicks on the track and he's had the car in his shop for several weeks at a time. From what I hear, the guy has spent almost 20k on it so far. I don't have several more weeks to give my car up. He had it for several weeks before and here I am. So who knows, but I DO KNOW, I dont have many options.

There is however another tuner at Sou. FL. Performance that Mike knows. He can tune mine and get the A/C programmed as well which isn't on there now. He's a master tuner and prefers the Haltech to most any other system. He can also gaurantee that after 2 days, the Haltech will be running perfect or I get my money back. The only problem... his knowledge and expertise doesn't come cheap. It would cost me $500 and again...he's down in South Florida. :(

Did you not leave the stock ecu to control the a/c and alternator loads?
 
Well...whoever said 400-500whp is difficult or impossible with less than 7K is wrong.

Here in PR we have a couple FSDE engines running over 600whp, 1 of them was a daily use Protege5 and they only have Pauter rods, Wiseco/JE pistons, ported head (no valve job), regrind cams, balanced crankshaft and modified transmission.

That is not all, right now in this moment, while I build my FSDE, my builder is already working on an auto trans to support 800+whp that his engine is now pushing. The GTX gears are not holding that much power.

The 800+whp FSDE does have a lot of custom job, new cams, larger valves, springs, retainers, crankshaft, pistons, rods, etc.

So far, it has been proven that with the right parts, this engine with STOCK head, some porting on it and on the Intake Mani, can do 600whp.
 
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