Alternator Removal?
- Thread starter dnale
- Start date
Im a bit confused. What exhaust did you loose to slide it out the bottom?
How did you go about getting it out from the bottom?
Reason Im asking is I think it would be easier for me to put the new one in from the bottom, if possible.
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
I prefer to only work under the car when completely necessary & also only take other things apart to get to the one you're replacing only when completely necessary.
Check the tension of the belts before you take them off then make the new ones that tight. When it squeals then tighten it some more. New ones will stretch.
Check the tension of the belts before you take them off then make the new ones that tight. When it squeals then tighten it some more. New ones will stretch.
How many alternators have you gone through? Ive had my P5 since Dec 2001, this is the first time Im changing the alternator. Hopefully it last just as long. The only other thing I had to change on my car is the front brakes. I did this a couple of weeks ago. Its amazing how long the stock brakes lasted. Oh, the major expense on my P5 is headlights. I go through 2-3 a year at least. Not sure why that is...
TonyMS,
I see you are from New Orleans to. I actually moved to Lafayette about a year half ago, never updated my location. Where did you buy your alternator from?
I got mine from Autozone 170.99 w/ the lifetime warranty they have to order it but so did my dealer and they wanted alot more. I just put my new one no problem at all it took maybe 30 mins and that was with my 3 yr son running away with my 14mm socket. As far as the tension is concerned I did it by feel not too loose or tight just right. This is the first alternator I really haven't had any real expenses with this car I bought it new Feb of 04 its a 03. I did just recently change the battery too but that is cause the car sat in the garage unused for 6 months.
Success!
I finished the alternator replacement today. Took me about 6 hours to do over a 3 day period. If I have to do this again though, it would probably take me about an hour or so. First I had problems getting the alternator out as described earlier. Solved by removing other components out of the way. Next I had to wait an extra day because my wife dropped the alternator of out of box when she picked it up from O'Reilly's. They didnt secure the top flap, and the alternator rolled out of the box. So I picked up a new one this morning. When I got home I started to work on the other belt and pulleys. The nut that is below pulley that secures the tensioner for the A/C belt stripped, and I had a hell of a time trying to get it off. I tried various methods to get it off, including vise gripes, but I had no success. I went to Sears to get some stripped bolt removers, and those didnt work. I ended up using a wrench on the back side on the special screw that has a hole in the head for the long tension screw. This was my last resort, since I was worried it would get damaged and it was a special bolt. I managed to get it off and the rest was a breeze.
So far so good. I adjusted to the belt by screwing the tension bolts to the location they were on the older belts. No squealing on the new belts and they dont feel to tight. I plan on posting some pics so it may help others who need to change the alternator.
Thanks for the tips everyone.
I finished the alternator replacement today. Took me about 6 hours to do over a 3 day period. If I have to do this again though, it would probably take me about an hour or so. First I had problems getting the alternator out as described earlier. Solved by removing other components out of the way. Next I had to wait an extra day because my wife dropped the alternator of out of box when she picked it up from O'Reilly's. They didnt secure the top flap, and the alternator rolled out of the box. So I picked up a new one this morning. When I got home I started to work on the other belt and pulleys. The nut that is below pulley that secures the tensioner for the A/C belt stripped, and I had a hell of a time trying to get it off. I tried various methods to get it off, including vise gripes, but I had no success. I went to Sears to get some stripped bolt removers, and those didnt work. I ended up using a wrench on the back side on the special screw that has a hole in the head for the long tension screw. This was my last resort, since I was worried it would get damaged and it was a special bolt. I managed to get it off and the rest was a breeze.
So far so good. I adjusted to the belt by screwing the tension bolts to the location they were on the older belts. No squealing on the new belts and they dont feel to tight. I plan on posting some pics so it may help others who need to change the alternator.
Thanks for the tips everyone.
justanothermp5
Banned
- :
- Rust Bucket
i got mine out the bottom, it was kinda hard but i pushed it through
03Mazda669
Member
alternator removal
how do u remove a alternator from a mazda6
how do u remove a alternator from a mazda6
justanothermp5
Banned
- :
- Rust Bucket
uhhh this is the protege 5 section lol
better luck posting that in the mazda 6 section
better luck posting that in the mazda 6 section
On my 2001 Protoge this week, I started hearing a squeal from under the hood, varying with engine speed; was getting louder by the day. To isolate which component it was coming from, I took a 16 inch long 1/4 inch diameter steel rod and pressed my ear against one end and touched a number of components with the other. The source of the loudest noise isolated the problem to the alternator.
I've got 225,000 KM on the car, so this alt owes me nothing. Got another alt from the junk yard for $60. I was a bit hesitant, but have had good luck with junkyard alternators in the past. (This is quite a bit cheaper than the $213 -$250 from Canadian Tire or NAPA)
To change out the alternator I tried to get it out the bottom and could not; the muffler pipe was in the way. I did eventually get it out the top, exactly as described in some of the posts here: moved the speed control actuator and the charcoal canister out of the way, and unbolted a couple of the hold-down screws of the power steering pump rubber hose to give me some wiggle room. I did not need to remove the alt tensioner bracket.
This gave me enough roomto pull it out the top without much trouble at all.
The other challenge that I had was turning the lower long alternator pivot bolt. I couldn't get enough leverage with a ratchet, and my Johnson bar had too much play in it for the available room. As it turns out there was enough room to get an air impact wrench in there. I got it out that way. Then used a pry bar to push the alt up out of the pivot point. This was a tough one too, as noted in the therads above.
In all this took me about 4 hours of work, with bits & pieces of info from this forum. Now that I've figured it out, I could probably swap in aother alternator in 1-1.5 hours.
I've got 225,000 KM on the car, so this alt owes me nothing. Got another alt from the junk yard for $60. I was a bit hesitant, but have had good luck with junkyard alternators in the past. (This is quite a bit cheaper than the $213 -$250 from Canadian Tire or NAPA)
To change out the alternator I tried to get it out the bottom and could not; the muffler pipe was in the way. I did eventually get it out the top, exactly as described in some of the posts here: moved the speed control actuator and the charcoal canister out of the way, and unbolted a couple of the hold-down screws of the power steering pump rubber hose to give me some wiggle room. I did not need to remove the alt tensioner bracket.
This gave me enough roomto pull it out the top without much trouble at all.
The other challenge that I had was turning the lower long alternator pivot bolt. I couldn't get enough leverage with a ratchet, and my Johnson bar had too much play in it for the available room. As it turns out there was enough room to get an air impact wrench in there. I got it out that way. Then used a pry bar to push the alt up out of the pivot point. This was a tough one too, as noted in the therads above.
In all this took me about 4 hours of work, with bits & pieces of info from this forum. Now that I've figured it out, I could probably swap in aother alternator in 1-1.5 hours.
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Thanks to all
Had the same squealing problem last week. Was going to take it to get checked the next day, but broke down. Lights dimmed, radio shut off, wipers were moving at super slow speeds during the noreaster. Turns out it was the alternator (big surprise). Got towed to a local Getty in NY and the guy tried to rip me off for $750 to replace it ($400 in labor! and a brand new alt for $325). He was telling me he had to remove the exhaust and/or axle to get it out. I immediately searched here, found this thread, and told them not to touch anything.
I picked up the car, spent the $170 at Autozone for the remanufactured Alt. and $15 for a new belt. Thanks to the info you guys posted, my father and I replaced it in 2 hours before work today. Went real smoothly. Saved some cash too.
I have a couple pics if anyone needs further details.
Thanks to all that posted with helpful info. Power in numbers at its best.
Had the same squealing problem last week. Was going to take it to get checked the next day, but broke down. Lights dimmed, radio shut off, wipers were moving at super slow speeds during the noreaster. Turns out it was the alternator (big surprise). Got towed to a local Getty in NY and the guy tried to rip me off for $750 to replace it ($400 in labor! and a brand new alt for $325). He was telling me he had to remove the exhaust and/or axle to get it out. I immediately searched here, found this thread, and told them not to touch anything.
I picked up the car, spent the $170 at Autozone for the remanufactured Alt. and $15 for a new belt. Thanks to the info you guys posted, my father and I replaced it in 2 hours before work today. Went real smoothly. Saved some cash too.
I have a couple pics if anyone needs further details.
Thanks to all that posted with helpful info. Power in numbers at its best.
Just wanted to add my experience. Did this last night on a car with 187K salty New England and Canadian miles.
Thanks everyone for all the advice!
Followed Rogue's procedure, but the car has stock intake manifold, so I had to move the power steering hoses and the charcoal canister out of the way.
So I had to do these additional steps before attempting to pull out the alternator (so, say, do these after you remove cruise control):
A. Detach the charcoal canister, two 10mm nuts attached to the firewall. Unscrew, then simply lift it off the bolts and swing it out of the way to rest on top of the intake manifold.
B. Remove 2 10mm bolts holding the bracket with two PS hoses in front of the strut tower. Lift that bracket off the bolts, so that you have room for the hoses to be pulled down.
C. Under the car, remove 3 10mm bolts (or loosen and rotate clamps out of the way) that hold down the PS hoses. I think all of these are attached to the PS rack itself. Two bolts are near each other, the third one is on *top* of the PS rack, towards the middle of the car. You can get it at it from the top or from the bottom, whatever's easier. Just follow the path of the PS hoses/lines.
D. Now you have wiggle room to push these hoses DOWN out of the way, which allows you to remove the alternator. Removing it is like playing tetris in your engine bay. I first got the pulley over the PS hoses and then was able to lift the alternator over the PS hoses. Then, I had to rotate it 90 degrees to lift it out entirely.
Tying rope over the alternator is very helpful. Getting it off the mounting point was a b****--it rotates, but doesn't want to come off. Lots of wedging with wrenches gets it moving. Keep working it.
Unfortunately, the long tension bolt attached to the P.S. pump broke and I can't start the car yet. Waiting on the part from the dealer.That's the last bit missing... everything else is back together.
So yeah, you can def remove your alternator without removing the intake manifold, the axle or the muffler.
Thanks everyone for all the advice!
Followed Rogue's procedure, but the car has stock intake manifold, so I had to move the power steering hoses and the charcoal canister out of the way.
So I had to do these additional steps before attempting to pull out the alternator (so, say, do these after you remove cruise control):
A. Detach the charcoal canister, two 10mm nuts attached to the firewall. Unscrew, then simply lift it off the bolts and swing it out of the way to rest on top of the intake manifold.
B. Remove 2 10mm bolts holding the bracket with two PS hoses in front of the strut tower. Lift that bracket off the bolts, so that you have room for the hoses to be pulled down.
C. Under the car, remove 3 10mm bolts (or loosen and rotate clamps out of the way) that hold down the PS hoses. I think all of these are attached to the PS rack itself. Two bolts are near each other, the third one is on *top* of the PS rack, towards the middle of the car. You can get it at it from the top or from the bottom, whatever's easier. Just follow the path of the PS hoses/lines.
D. Now you have wiggle room to push these hoses DOWN out of the way, which allows you to remove the alternator. Removing it is like playing tetris in your engine bay. I first got the pulley over the PS hoses and then was able to lift the alternator over the PS hoses. Then, I had to rotate it 90 degrees to lift it out entirely.
Tying rope over the alternator is very helpful. Getting it off the mounting point was a b****--it rotates, but doesn't want to come off. Lots of wedging with wrenches gets it moving. Keep working it.
Unfortunately, the long tension bolt attached to the P.S. pump broke and I can't start the car yet. Waiting on the part from the dealer.That's the last bit missing... everything else is back together.
So yeah, you can def remove your alternator without removing the intake manifold, the axle or the muffler.
MP5_rookie
Member
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- 2003 Protege 5 - Stock, with hopes to upgrade
Damn, I mean to reply to this thread...
Check out my comments on the other thread
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123698618-Anyone-have-any-tips-on-changing-an-alternator-on-a-P5&p=5805639&posted=1#post5805639
Check out my comments on the other thread
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123698618-Anyone-have-any-tips-on-changing-an-alternator-on-a-P5&p=5805639&posted=1#post5805639
westerboyz
Member
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- 2002 mazda protege 5
Yeah had 103,000 miles when my battery finally died, on the highway. Coasted into a autozone and replaced it in the parking lot. Used the scissor jack on the passenger side and took the wheel off. I got mine out through the bottom. Took me about an hour to get it off and another hour to install.
