ALL Unichip Questions / Problems

[Spooled]

Now THAT I agree with. Closed loop is the best way to go to ensure that you are actually boosting to a constant target pressure. I assume the Unichip just pulses the valve at a certain speed based on RPM, MAF signal and TPS (or a simpler combo). That, of course, still isn't an excuse for it to not pulse at all, ever.

MS38449:
That's b/c you took it to Jotech who know nothing about this car!

The solenoid used often in other applicaions because it's a readily available solenoid. AEM uses it too in their AEM Tru-boost and so does one other company. If you want the best boost controller, you should get something that is closed loop. Unichip's software that you tune the solenoid with isn't that great either compared to a Greddy.

 

[sandyj]

Unichip update

Hey Guys,
So I never got the EBC to hold boost properly on the unichip, It is spiking to about 15/16psi. So I put in the spring in the meantime until I get it tuned (waiting to put the 626 mani in first). I was just curious, on the high boost setting on the unichip does only just up the boost? or does is actually change the map?
Also just wanted to clarify that on @10psi that I can't run map B with race fuel? Would there be noticible gains if I were able to do this?

Thanks,

 

[JDM Sam]

I don't recommend using the 626 mani with the Unichip.

The original mapping of the Map B switch is activated only at WOT and advances timing. Do not use Map B if you have this calibration UNLESS you are using 100 octane or higher! It does nothing but alter the timing advance.

 

[sandyj]

Ok, thanks for the quick response JDM SAM, I forgot to mention that I am flashed, not sure if this changes things. But I will be running 100+ octance, so I should be fine on Map B. Will I be gaining much power though?

In regards to the 626 manifold, you don't recommend it because it has drivablity issues with the unichip installed? Can't a good unichip tuner take care of this?

thanks,

 

[sandyj]

So, Is it that it is much harder to tune the unichip with the 626 IM, or it can't be tuned at all with it?

thanks

 

[JDM Sam]

Go do a dyno before and after of the intake manifold with AFR readout and you will see if you can run it or not.

 

[sandyj]

ok, thanks for the response, I guess I will decide if I want to get it then, really don't want to get it if it is going to be more of a pain to tune then its worth? What kind of issues have you experienced while tying to tune with it, AFRs going all over the place?

thanks

 

[crashkelly]

ok, thanks for the response, I guess I will decide if I want to get it then, really don't want to get it if it is going to be more of a pain to tune then its worth? What kind of issues have you experienced while tying to tune with it, AFRs going all over the place?

thanks

I think it can be tuned with a 626 manifold, but I know that they cannot be run straight out of the box with one...Ive heard that the unichip starts dumping fuel like crazy because of the added flow. Hopefully a good tuner can correct the problem, but who knows...Everyone told me I wouldnt be able tune my unichip with a Relocated MAF and that it would run like s***, but the shop I took it to had no problem at all mine runs like a champ now.

 

[sandyj]

great thanks, that sounds good, by the way what kind of numbers were they able to get you with a custom tune?

 

[crashkelly]

great thanks, that sounds good, by the way what kind of numbers were they able to get you with a custom tune?

gained 20 whp and 26 wtq

 

[sandyj]

what was your total HP/TQ ?

 

[crashkelly]

what was your total HP/TQ ?

at the time it was awful actually...the o2 sensor on the manifold had a wire that needed to be soldered which was causing a code which had me running in limp mode. At stock I was like 135whp and 151 tq or something then after the tune I picked up the 20/26...After getting the sensor fixed I took it to another dyno and was able to get a look at it running normally. I think it was 219whp/231tq...Im at work at the moment so I'll check the sheet when I get home. Unfortunately, you can't really compare the numbers accurately because of the sensor/limp mode issue, but I just figure that the change on the original run are pretty close because, despite my worries, tuning it in limp mode did affect the AFR's when it went back to normal. So I kind of just think it would be like just moving the line on the graph vertically to higher numbers....I know that is a pretty big assumption, but the car runs great and I couldnt be happier.

I was crapping my pants when the first sheet came back and I realized the car was in limp mode cause the numbers were so crappy. I should have fixed the problem, but I thought the CEL was just cause I had no cats at the time.

I should also mention I switched from an SRI to a CAI when I ran the new dyno...so that may or may not have made any difference. Point being if you get a good dyno tune you can definately pick up some numbers. Plus you have some added security knowing that your car is running right.

 

[sandyj]

thanks, I have similiar mods to you. If I can pull similiar numbers , I would be happy! hopefully the 626 IM does not mess things up

 

[crashkelly]

thanks, I have similiar mods to you. If I can pull similiar numbers , I would be happy! hopefully the 626 IM does not mess things up

good luck!

 

[MS38449]

Unless you are going to answer this question, please stop spouting mindless dribble.



And what MSD unit would this be?

This one - http://www.msdfuelinjection.com/blaster_efi.html ?

Only thing I notice on their site that looks to do what you are talking about, and that is $1400, won't work with the stock ignition, etc, etc....little different class than the Unichip man.

Here ya go, Programmable DIS-2 with Boost Timing Master (6212) better late than never!(fuoops)
Plus.. if the Mods would not have deleted what I have wrote about UniChip y'all would have better info. Also had problems with MA(Metal Addiction) when they finally stop letting them sell here.

Just like with our government, give them enough money or presents and I guess they can get what they want.
Don't get mad if it so.

Oh, I had no loose or broken lines and it was not my waistgate. It was the boost controller. After Mazda replaced my motor and the turbo I took the boost controller of the chip and hooked the chip back up and ran it like that. NOTHING, NADA, ZIP IN THE A or B so.. I hooked up my old JoeP MBC and boosted it up to 15psi and ran great but that all. THE MSP handled A LOT BETTER than this MS3(squarly ass back end).

One more thing, YOU STILL HAVE TO HAVE THE UNIJUNK TUNED TO YOUR CAR! Another $400.00 @ the least.

 

[turbolife]

Here ya go, Programmable DIS-2 with Boost Timing Master (6212) better late than never!(fuoops)

And for fuel control?

 

[LASERBLUE135]

Went to the dyno today...Unichip, injen cai, and corksport catless exhaust. Dyno sheet will be up in a day or so as they are emailing it to me. Good: the a/f ratio is perfect across the board low boost or high boost which is awesome.

stock hp/tq: 146/146

low boost hp/tq: 162/162 a little less than I was hoping but blah.

hi boost hp/tq: 173/194 huge torque jump

and the BAD: you will see when you see my graph, but the graph has a HUGE dip in the mid range and then a vertical spike at high rpms...so I was really thinking that the 626 manifold would be the perfect fix, but now I see that you guys think that it would be bad???? So I don't know whether I should get a tune and see what the does or if I should try the 626 manifold and then get a tune???? I'm only making one trip to Chicago to get a tune done so I don't know? The stock graph is pretty standard, so the new f'd up graph is unichip caused...anyone have any ideas how to best fix the mid range dip?

 

[JDM Sam]

yeah, your ecu must be the unflashed version. lets see your dyno sheet first.

 

[JDM Sam]

Here ya go, Programmable DIS-2 with Boost Timing Master (6212) better late than never!(fuoops)
Plus.. if the Mods would not have deleted what I have wrote about UniChip y'all would have better info. Also had problems with MA(Metal Addiction) when they finally stop letting them sell here.

Just like with our government, give them enough money or presents and I guess they can get what they want.
Don't get mad if it so.

Oh, I had no loose or broken lines and it was not my waistgate. It was the boost controller. After Mazda replaced my motor and the turbo I took the boost controller of the chip and hooked the chip back up and ran it like that. NOTHING, NADA, ZIP IN THE A or B so.. I hooked up my old JoeP MBC and boosted it up to 15psi and ran great but that all. THE MSP handled A LOT BETTER than this MS3(squarly ass back end).

One more thing, YOU STILL HAVE TO HAVE THE UNIJUNK TUNED TO YOUR CAR! Another $400.00 @ the least.

You ran your motor to 15 psi? No wonder it blew. You live 30 minutes away from me, you should have brought it to me to get retuned.

 

[LASERBLUE135]

yeah, your ecu must be the unflashed version. lets see your dyno sheet first.

Very good! I have not had the ECU flashed. I intentionally never had it done. Is the unichip based on the flashed ECU? I have the dyno chart and it will be up tomorrow. Thanks for your help JDMsam.