Having done a few thousand allignments, LITTERALLY, allow me to explain.
At stock ride height the front lower control arms are angled slightly down at the outer edge. When you lower the car, the outer point (ball joint) swings in an arc. The ball joint actually moves outward from the centerline of the car. Thus creating more neg camber. If you go past level, which most cars will not, you will start to move camber towards the positive.
The excentric bolts will help to adjust camber where you want it.
The rear is fixed allignment. I have used the SPC shims hundreds of times. I tried several of them on my B-spec racer and found none that fit properly. I am currently waiting for some machined shims to arrive. You only need about a 0.020" shim to adjust toe where I want it for a dedicated racecar. Which is probably not where you would want it for the street.
The fancy Hunter machines are only as good as the operator. I know, I used one every day for 15 years. If the shop has updated their software to the latest version they should have all the current specs that the manufacturers have provided. For a 2011 car, Hunter may not have the specs. So having the specs in hand before arriving may save the tech some time and effort.
I will add to what VDSracing said above; You should corner weight and allign the car at the same time. This is less critical on a mz2 than a Miata. But allignment changes can change the corner weights. Also when corner weighting, disconnect the front sway bar for accurate readings.
If I get everything done, we will have The Allien at the Blackhawk Farms Raceway this weekend.
Dave
Dunno, the place I go to has one of those new[er] Hunter laser alignment machines, I think they have specs in them.
