Aggravating Airbag light 🤯

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Eureka
Hi all newbie here. 2002 protege5 . I have a goofy red light blinking. Looks like a#73. Can’t find air bag code anywhere, wtf is it a government secret?🤔. Put my Otc reader on the car no codes. Thanks glad to be here.
 
There is a procedure to read the codes,..

Screenshot_20230320-133133_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg



Here's a link to the factory service manual.
It's covered in chapter 8


 
Thanks PCP, while I was gone I did find that info online. Maybe it is reading a #7 then #3. Maybe the codes read in the order they happened?
I did have to replace the batt. recently. I also went through the connectors under the seats (wD-40😎). The blinking light is out now. I didn’t do the past malfunction clearing procedure yet. I did foolishly 😩
use an ohm meter before I read that info about disconnecting the batt for
awhile. I’m so glad I didn’t set off the bags. I did find a connector under drivers seat that goes to the drivers buckle. It ohmed out as a switch for when the drivers seat belt is hooked up. I never found one for the passenger side 🤔. Connector input reads 12v to the switch in the buckle. But I did put a 12v test light to the positive side of the said input side of the connector and the test lite very very dim. I was expecting a bright test lite. Checked lite OK🤔. watcha think. Ever work on air bags? Thanks for listening.
 
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I did find a connector under drivers seat that goes to the drivers buckle.
I never found one for the passenger side watcha think. Ever work on air bags? Thanks for listening.

That switch has nothing to do with the air bags or seat belts. It simply turns on the idiot light to remind you to put your seat belt on.
It also has a timer circuit to ring a beeper for a few seconds.

This is what it looks like.

20230321_233947.jpg


If that light comes on and won't shut off, you can turn it off by grounding the connector to metal somewhere.
I forget which end you connect to ground, I think it's the connector side that unplugs with the wire on it.
The switch can get dirty and stop making contact, then the light won't shut off.
The WD-40 may have cleaned the switch and got it working again.

There is only one seat belt switch, just the drivers seat.


This is the idiot light that is of concern,..

20230321_234001.jpg


That's the one that needs attention and is a big safety issue.
 
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That switch has nothing to do with the air bags or seat belts. It simply turns on the idiot light to remind you to put your seat belt on.
It also has a timer circuit to ring a beeper for a few seconds.

This is what it looks like.

View attachment 318001

If that light comes on and won't shut off, you can turn it off by grounding the connector to metal somewhere.
I forget which end you connect to ground, I think it's the connector side that unplugs with the wire on it.
The switch can get dirty and stop making contact, then the light won't shut off.
The WD-40 may have cleaned the switch and got it working again.

There is only one seat belt switch, just the drivers seat.


This is the idiot light that is of concern,..

View attachment 318002

That's the one that needs attention and is a big safety issue.
Thank pcp for all the info sounds like u have been around these Mazada,s for a while. I have yet another issue. I found A dtc p0421 Cat below threshold bank1. Have a O2 sensor on order. While I was hooking up my tester I found out the data link connector is faulty. i still have to get it inspected too.If I hold it just right I can go through the tests. You ever replace a data link connector? I think it’s the connector by the way I was holding it to get it to work? I hope it’s not in the wiring. Can you even get a DL. Connector? Thanks again.
 
Thank pcp for all the info sounds like u have been around these Mazada,s for a while. I have yet another issue. I found A dtc p0421 Cat below threshold bank1. Have a O2 sensor on order.

You might get lucky and clear that code with a new upstream O2 sensor, but that O2 sensor is there to monitor the condition of your pre-cat, and p0421 is supposed to mean that your pre-cat needs replacing.
There is a non-fouler hack to get rid of that code without replacing your pre-cat.


While I was hooking up my tester I found out the data link connector is faulty. i still have to get it inspected too.If I hold it just right I can go through the tests. You ever replace a data link connector? I think it’s the connector by the way I was holding it to get it to work? I hope it’s not in the wiring. Can you even get a DL. Connector? Thanks again.

It's probably a bad connection in your connector.
Try spraying it down with electrical contact cleaner or sensor cleaner.
Spray it down and work the plug in and out a few times to clear it up.

A wrecker might be your best/cheapest bet for a connector. Maybe ebay?
I'm not sure how the connector is wired in.
It could be difficult to replace it without soldering wires?
 
Ok I got the DLC fixed. Drove it to rest the IM monitors and a dtc p1569 IMCR circuit malfunction low Popped up on my code reader. Wtf? Dtc p1569 meaning is Variable Tumble Control System (VTCS) circuit electrical malfunction. But the code reader also read IMCR circuit low and that should be p2009. The protege manual I have doesn’t even list a p1569. i believe they both have to do with the intake runner? Which one do I chase? Any thoughts out there? Thanks Gus.
 
The P1569 is in this manual,..


It's an old Mazda specific code.
The same code is seen as P2009 with generic readers where they call it an intake runner.

You need a new VTCS solenoid valve.
You may as well get a VICS solenoid valve too while your at it.

We've all had to replace them.
They are the same valve.
The same valve is used for the fuel pressure solenoid valve and one other valve too (purge I think?)

This is what you need.
The $13 one will work and is good enough.
They're all the same except the vacuum hoses may plug in differently.


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Screenshot_20230328-194153_DuckDuckGo.jpg
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Screenshot_20230328-193956_DuckDuckGo.jpg


Get a few. Your going to need them. 😂
 
This is just an air filter.
You just pull it off and put it on the proper port if the valve connects differently.

Screenshot_20230328-195505_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 
Hey pcp, I checked the VTCS out it was a bad shutter valve actuator. Got it on order. Pricey. Tell me I don’t have to pull the intake off to replace this😭.Maybe just the V/C gasket and that front cover?
 
That happened to another guy.
He just sprayed down the linkage with lube and got it going again.

That valve actuator doesn't get much use and can seize up.
It only operates when you first start your car, and if the car is warm, it doesn't operate.

The VICS shutter valve operates every time the RPMS go over about 3400 RPM.
 
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I wish it was that easy😂. It doesn’t hold a vacuum. I did notice it idle a little rough at times. I thought maybe trying to pull just the V/C off and that short cover on the front. Naturally the belts. And I might get to it.Any body else on here ever put one on. Maybe I should post a new thread on the subject?🤔.
 
Hi everyone, I’m back after replacing the shutter valve actuator on my 2002 protege. Had to take off the intake manifold
upper and lower. Replaced both gaskets lower was a steel upper was a fiber gasket w/red silicone out lines. Both fel-pro. Torqued to 15-18 ft lbs.
after the repair had a vacuum leak around the the intake. Removed intakes again. Could not see anything wrong w/gaskets. All vacuum hoses look good (and there are a lot of them😂). Pull every thing back off. Ordered new gaskets. Going to replace all the hidden vacuum hoses.
anybody ever have to use sealer on these gaskets to make them work. Maybe that spray on copper coat?🤔.Felpro says no sealer needed. Thougths? Thanks Gus.
 
I had a heater hose blow off of my 85' 626 and I warped the head.

Screenshot_20210921-191817_Gallery.jpg


I swapped it with the head from my parts car.
I reused the original head gasket and head bolts. 😂

I just sprayed both sides of the gasket with copper silicone spray gasket.
It worked for over 2 years before I sold the car.
(I got $425 for it.)
 
Thanks pcb, yea I sprayed the steel gasket with copper coat and the fiber gasket I used red silicone on both sides haven’t started it yet. It’s just strange that it didn’t leak before unless I have something else going on😂 thanks
 
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Update on the shutter actuator replacement. The silicone on both sides of the upper intake gaskets and copper coat on the lower intake and throttle body did the trick. It didn’t want to stay running in the beginning after start up, I thought here we go again. After three or four try’s she started right up and purred. It was sitting for a while waiting on parts. I guess the injectors had to pressure up. I still need to drive it to reset the IM monitors before emission test. Hope the light don’t come back on😩. I’ll keep you posted. thanks Gus
 
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Update. The DTC P0421 came back. When I put the intake and shutter valve actuator back together I mistakenly installed that black and green check valve In the shutter valve supply vacuum line backwards. Opps😂.
turned it around. Have to let it cold soak for a while before checking again. In the meantime I installed the non-fouler hack on the rear 02 sensor😎. Keep u posted.
 
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