Afc

[MDeJ10]

I was thinking about getting a Air/fuel Controller(split second). My car has no mods on it and im still dealing with hesitation/stumble under load. I was wondering if anyone feels this may help cure the problem.

 

[theEZV]

might want to look into the dealer reflash first (if your car is not flashed). but yes the afc should help.

 

[yudkib]

might want to look into the dealer reflash first (if your car is not flashed). but yes the afc should help.

i dont know if i agree with this. it could be an AFR issue, but the flash advances timing, which is not always a good thing, and doesnt rule out other possibilities like heatsoak. what are your long term goals with the car?

 

[MDeJ10]

you mean what do i plan to do as far as mods?

 

[yudkib]

yeah

 

[MDeJ10]

I was thinking about gradually modding it but i guess just some light mods for now.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

a tune is ALWAYS a great idea for these cars... regardless of goals..

 

[yudkib]

its true, but the question i was asking pertained to the reflash. its tough to make recommendations on that one, since if you plan to control spark (even if you retard it) you might as well get it, but if you want a mild forge build you shouldnt get it, but if you want a mild/moderate non-forge build you should.

anyways, there is no reason not to tune if you can afford it. do something from split second if you dont feel particularly adventurous, do the AEM FIC if youre more willing to take risks to save a couple hundred bucks. its a good unit but its not as "foolproof" and theres not quite as much support.

 

[MDeJ10]

well im not very adventurous I wanted something straight forward, plug and play. I dont know much about how these piggy back systems work however I do know that i've pulled this engine apart twice because of fuel cut and as far as i know from searching the fuel cut posts on the forum an AFC is the only answer. I mean i've tried everything to get rid of it, thought the WGA did the trick but it still stumbles...Is the AFC an advisable first mod?

 

[Wagonbacker9]

only plug and play is the unichip
but the SSAFC is just 6 solder connections...

 

[yudkib]

if youre even considering tuning, an advisable first mod would be a boost gauge and wideband O2/AFR gauge. then a piggyback is an advisable second mod.

like i said though, theres a possibility that youre not having "bogging" issues from the richness, you also could be heatsoaking the piece of garbage stock intercooler. if you want to start modding, a front mount intercooler, a front engine mount and some side inserts, and gauges/tune are all excellent places to start, and if youre on a budget you can easily do all of that under a grand.

 

[MDeJ10]

oh really i was looking at this on PG...http://www.protegegarage.com/866-splitsecond-air-fuel-controller-protege-and-mazdaspeed-protege.html

 

[MDeJ10]

i have gauges on the way...well the boost gauge...shulda got a A/F gauge, however its more of a cut during boost and i dont want to get on it too much because i just put it back together after bending one of those toothpick rods.

 

[yudkib]

you bent a rod? what are your current mods/psi? also its hard to tell from your description if youre just running into the MSP bad tune or if youre hitting fuel cut... your mods/PSI should answer that quickly. also where are you located?

 

[MDeJ10]

yeah, i have pulled my car apart twice in about a 5 month span...its completely stock, the only mod i have is a forge WGA cause the oem was shot. What happens is from idle to 3k the car runs fine, upon boost the car stumbles. I havent got on the gas much to see if it will hit the wall it did before i bent a rod because i dont want to take it apart again. And I live in central Jersey. Also I appreciate the help.

 

[yudkib]

how do you know the forge isnt shot? and did it stumble like this before you blew up/changed the WGA?

 

[MDeJ10]

yeah, it did it 10x worse before i bent the rod and i just got the forge about a month ago.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

sounds like another issue caused both issues.

 

[yudkib]

sounds like a bad WGA caused the first issue (probably fuel cut), sounds like another issue is causing this issue.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

sounds like a bad WGA caused the first issue (probably fuel cut), sounds like another issue is causing this issue.

he said it was worse before the change change. so, bad though the WGA may have been, it doesn't sound like that was the whole problem.
No reason to suspect the forge is the cause of the issue.