AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

[nicholsspeed]

put in a knock light. or better yet pick up a J&S

J&S? i dont really want a light, as it will be a PITA to look for the light, see RPM, and Boost. a way to log would be much more effective.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

J&S? i dont really want a light, as it will be a PITA to look for the light, see RPM, and Boost. a way to log would be much more effective.

Then you're probably looking at a standalone. J&S Safeguard will both notify you of knock, and pull spark for you.

 

[noyesboy]

all right ive been trying to look through most of the posts regarding this but have had no luck, i found dyno charts that show stock psi 8 psi with afc and 10 psi with afc, but posts after are saying that its the gains with more boost and the afc, which helps no so much i was wondering if anybody has dynoed at 10 psi and then tuned and dynoed again?? also the elevation is retarded in abq so me running 12 13 psi is probably like me running 9 or 10lbs at sea level which sucks but would the supermap tune cover for that?

 

[HKPRO5]

Nope. I would say go with a custom tune.

 

[HKPRO5]

Could someone post up how to run the program on windows 7? I went back but couldn't find it.

 

[Alejo_NIN]

wanted to share this for the longest time.
i know there is a link to the software from split second, but this is a backup of the whole disk that came with the splitsecond
password: mazdaspeed
http://hotfile.com/dl/127673891/7781af1/archive652736425file987.rar.html

 

[matsda]

Hi, I have bought a Split second psc1-020 for mazda protege but he's pre-programmed for mazdaspeed protege. The thing is I have a protege naturally aspired. I need a map for my mazda and I read on your website you have this type of map. Is it possible for me to have one map N/A for protege ? If it's yes how ?

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

uhhh... whos website are you actually talking about, if you mean this thread, then someone did talk about having a SS map for the N/A but I'm pretty sure everyone pretty much told him that you'd have to make your own, or that it is pretty close to useless.. unless someone knows of someone that actually has a N/A map.. can't remember if they do or not.. but as far as I know the SS was not made for the regular protege.. and all the "legit" ones that were made are for the msp more or less.. but point is, unless someone speaks up of knowing someone that has done this. then your on your own.. but good luck

 

[HaleTru]

Hey all, don't really have much time top read all 152 pages. Just curious. I put new MM's in and had to disconnect the Battery. I have a AFCSS1. I have a 3" cat back, boost gauge (8psi), Wideband, injun cai, iridium plugs at stock gap. After the MM install, the vehicle hasn't had the same...pep. Do I need to reload the map? Or can someone recommend a better one? I don't wanna mess up my engine, when I don't really know how to read much of it. I do have the software installed on my laptop (windows 7). If you could, I would really like some help. Thanks. (AFR's read 14.6-14.7 at idle, and anywhere from over 20 to below 10 when going up or down.) please email me a good map if you can. Its hot here in Texas. (just a side note at about 600ft above sea level and hot hot hot.)

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

well I guess try uploading the map again, but I would also think and assume you have an upgraded IC? at least I would hope so because the stock one blows balls, other than that, the map that I have now is great so far, still need to tune it around 7-8.5+ psi, but it's fine for now, I will get around to fine tuning it in a while.. oh and also the car will learn your driving habits kind of so I have noticed when you disconnect the battery and it has to re-learn everything, it is good to re-load your map once or twice more after a few hundred miles, and once you get a good base to you ecu, and then load the map, I have noticed is it sooo much more stable as far as afr and the tune holding and stuff.. otherwise it tends to learn around the ssafc, just because it is adjusting after having the ecu wiped out.. at least that is how I look at it, and something like that has to be going on even if it doesn't make much sense, because it works for me great the last year or 2 that I have noticed and tried doing that

 

[b6gtxawd]

hey guys finally got my wide band in and i would like to play around a bit. i hooked it up last night and it gives me readings all over the place.10.0 in wot and its anywhere from 13.5 to 15.5 when just cruising on the highway. what kind of readings do i want? AND what would be a good map i could use on the ssafc?

as for mods i have 2.5 inch hard pipes with relocated MAF, short ram intake, 2.5 or 3 inch cat back exhaust with highflo cat, forge wastegate at 5-7 psi, fmic, and stock plugs gapped at .030. i think thats about it.

 

[b6gtxawd]

oh and a turbo xs bov

 

[HaleTru]

b6gtxawd, I am having a hard time getting help as well. The MSP runs pig rich. WOT you should be (from what I have been told about safe range's) any where from 10.5-12. I idle at 14.7. Your running about right, maybe a bit lean, at cruising speed. I am no expert, and am trying to learn fast. Played around with my laptop today. Have 3 maps, and am learning that it only takes small increments to get what you want. At WOT I was running 9.5ish, -.1 value and it made it 12.8 at WOT. Hard doing it by yourself, thats why I have 3 maps so far. Ya there are a lot maps here, but i think each car runs different. Plus I really wanna learn how to do it myself. Please, anybody is free to correct me if I am wrong. I am just trying to answer the best I know from what I have learned. Good Luck.

 

[justanothermp5]

You should never have to re upload a map onto the SSAFC for disconnecting the battery. So chances are you just need to let the ECU re-learn the car.

and as to the AFR's you posted, yes thats pretty much right. 11-12 AFRs are the safest and make the best power in boost. 14.7 is what your shooting for at idle and under cruising conditions.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

^^ what he said, I only reload the maps after the car has learned everything and the driving conditions because it seems to me personally that the car just runs better and kind of holds the map better, even though it really shouldn't be a problem but anyways, don't try to change the a/f ratios out of boost at cruising speeds, no need for it, unless your doing it in boost at cruising speeds.. which is obviously different, and safe level is stay aroiund 11.5, getting close to 12 is "iffy" and depending on the temp that day and just how the car is running at that moment, you might happen to run a little higher than 11.5 or a little lower... also do a few datalogging pulls each time before you edit the map, then a few before you edit it again.. so you have a few different maps to compare, sometimes a real lean spot on one run might not show up on the other run, even with the same map.. it takes a HUGE amount of patience and time to really nail the tuning down, but I'm glad I learned and it's pretty easy once you do

 

[b6gtxawd]

should my afr's be on a solid number or bouncing all over the place cus at idle it anywhere from 13.5-15.8 just bouncing back and forth. and at wot its anywhere from 10-12.5. is this all normal i just have never had one of these widebands before so i dont know whats expected

 

[hornsfan10609]

I am untuned (saving for an SSFTC) but my wideband reads about 14.5-15.2 at idle, the number 'bounces' around but stays within that range. WOT I hit as low as 9.4 and about 10.8 when I ease on the gas. Depending on if the WB is digital or analog it will be more precise and the readout wont seem as steady.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

yea, it will bounce around for the most part, at idle don't worry about it really, and same with cruising, mainly it's to watch your afr levels in boost (you will eventually notice what it should be out of boost and cruising but don't worry about it now) and when you have it tuned well, it should be more steady at a single boost level.. the goal is to get around 11.5 and especially when you first start tuning it will bounce around a whole lot, and might change depending on the day and temp. but if you can get a smooth decrease in numbers on the map as you increase boost and get it to around 11.5 it will be steadier, but really it can go from a higher 10 to low/mid 11s, and it's fine, but at WOT you want to keep it from jumping over 12, a split second jump is fine, but if it is steady in the 12s then you took too much fuel out, better safe than sorry

 

[b6gtxawd]

K so if I'm in the 10's wot now much would I want to take away fro
The r4 software to get it to where I wanna be. And were should I change it higher rpm and boost levels? Like 4000 rpm and boost over say 3 or 4 psi? I just got all the right stuff to tune this ssafc but dont know my head from my ass when tuning it and when I try and write my map to the ecu it says there is an ignition source present and doesn't let me load it to the ecu. But the car is off and the key is out. Wtf???

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

hmm, never heard of that problem before, but you need the car on ACC i think it is, not really sure what is going on with that, I think you'll have to play around with it unless someone has experience with hat type of issue,

(Edit:, I just re-read your post, and yes you need to key in and the car in ACC, there is an order which you need to do things for it to hook up properly, I think you need the cables connected to the comp. and ssafc, with the computer already turned on and, it helps, with R4 program up, and then turn the car to ACC and then try to connect.. it might be the other way around but if your cursor starts flying around then try it another way.. it helps also if you don't have your mouse plugged in (I have a cordless remote and it makes the cursor fly around if I have it connected when I am trying to connect to the ssafc)

but as far as the tuning, just take away -.1 at a time, for the areas where it is really consistently down in the 10s, you could do -.2 for the first time, (make sure it's only in the areas that are really rich, better safe than sorry), but then just do a few logs/runs after you change the map, and see where it is rich, but I would only do it -.1 at a time, and in the fuel map the x and y axises are the boost and fuel, you just have to scroll over, you can also click on the top left corner of the axises and that will highlight all of the cells in the fuel map, and then just drag one of the axis boxes (so say one of the rpm boxes) to the size that you want, and release, which will make all of the cells that size, and then just do the same for the boost... the only problem, which I don't know what r4 made it like this, is that once you click on the area you want, it will all scrunch up again, so I just click on where I want, and remember how many cells I wanted to change/highlight, and just double check once you change them, that you actually highlighted the correct cells.

It is pretty tedious, but I would seriously read the manual that came with the program that shows you what everything is, I read it a lot of times just to make sure I had a general idea as to what everything was before I even started tuning anything, because if you make a mistake it could turn into a HUGE and very very expensive problem... like say.... your engine blowing