AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

[Jaysanooch]

Mine is set like that but the graph is all psycho so I just road tune it and watch the wideband. It's lame.

Weird...Aux A is the pink line on the graph....I would set all other AUX like B,C,D to 0,0. You say psycho on the graph....but what are the readings in AUX A?

I know the graph doesn't look pretty but when you zoom in, you spread out the line on the graph and it doesn't look as bad....well for me anyway.

If your running a AEM....you need to connect one of the AFC orange wires to the .5v wire on the AEM.

BTW, I do see a slight difference AFC vs AEM. The AFC gives me slightly leaner readings than on the wideband by quarter point.

 

[JMKOOPA]

I don't remember right now, it's been about 4 months since I've messed with it. I'm not gonna see my car for another 2-3 months but I'll check the wires again.

 

[HondaEat-R]

quick question guys: OK, I installed the SS-AFC V1 yesterday, and it's going pretty well so far but as I look at some of the maps, I see that are some major differences in Output Settings. What should they be ? I know everyones car is different but some people had the "over-pressure" set to 7 ?? My understanding is that the over-pressure should be set to anywhere from -.5 to 1, and that once that pressure reading is reached, the AFC comes into play and adds or subtracts fuel at the next psi above your "over-pressure" setting. If over-pressure is set for 1psi, you should start tuning at 2psi ? If someone could tell me what all of the "Output Settings" should be, I'd appreciate it !!

 

[Jaysanooch]

quick question guys: OK, I installed the SS-AFC V1 yesterday, and it's going pretty well so far but as I look at some of the maps, I see that are some major differences in Output Settings. What should they be ? I know everyones car is different but some people had the "over-pressure" set to 7 ?? My understanding is that the over-pressure should be set to anywhere from -.5 to 1, and that once that pressure reading is reached, the AFC comes into play and adds or subtracts fuel at the next psi above your "over-pressure" setting. If over-pressure is set for 1psi, you should start tuning at 2psi ? If someone could tell me what all of the "Output Settings" should be, I'd appreciate it !!

Yes over pressure should be set anywhere between -1psi and 1psi usually.
For the output settings...everything should be set correctly by default and only the overpressure should be checked everytime you load a map. The default settings are posted in the first few pages of the thread.

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

quick question guys: OK, I installed the SS-AFC V1 yesterday, and it's going pretty well so far but as I look at some of the maps, I see that are some major differences in Output Settings. What should they be ? I know everyones car is different but some people had the "over-pressure" set to 7 ?? My understanding is that the over-pressure should be set to anywhere from -.5 to 1, and that once that pressure reading is reached, the AFC comes into play and adds or subtracts fuel at the next psi above your "over-pressure" setting. If over-pressure is set for 1psi, you should start tuning at 2psi ? If someone could tell me what all of the "Output Settings" should be, I'd appreciate it !!

output b is the O2 clamp. set it to what you want to. if you set it to over pressure and 7 psi, the ecu will control everything from 7 psi and lower, but any changes made before the AFC clamps the O2 sensor, the ECU will learn around. if you want to tune everything in boost, set it to 0 or 1 psi.

 

[HondaEat-R]

I had a few times where it went very lean right when hitting that over pressure point, then went rich a needed. I was just curious as to why someone would start modding the "10" value at 2psi, and have the over pressure set for 7 psi. THanks guy This will take some time with out datalogging for the wideband....doh.

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

they probably didn't realize it.

as for tuning, i have my wideband on the steering column. so i used a camera to record AFR and rpm, used the datalog of the FTC to record RPM and boost. once you get in the ball park, and just need fine tuning. it goes by fast.

 

[fatti03msp]

did you change your a and b coefficients for aux a?

I've had to make a winter map and richen everything up a little. When the cold hit...my AFR's got leaner by a full point at some places. It's been a struggle to get some consistency out of this thing.



Like J said...are the values in AUX A been changed? Must be 10 and 2 with a AEM. It might be different coefficents if you run another wideband possibly.

thanks for the info, ill have to mess with it tom.

 

[43975]

Can anyone direct me to a Map for: GT28RS, Forge WGA currently set at 4-5 psi, Perrin 3" catless exhaust, MAM Hard Pipes, SSQV, CXRacing FMIC homemade vac block, relocated MAF. MAM SRI. I currently have a damn P0171 CEL caused by the Split second somehow. I pulled the split second reset the ECU and ran without it for awhile without the CEL as soon as I soldered it back in CEL popped up. I'm thinking it's one of the settings I just don't know which one.

Any help???

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

Can anyone direct me to a Map for: GT28RS, Forge WGA currently set at 4-5 psi, Perrin 3" catless exhaust, MAM Hard Pipes, SSQV, CXRacing FMIC homemade vac block, relocated MAF. MAM SRI. I currently have a damn P0171 CEL caused by the Split second somehow. I pulled the split second reset the ECU and ran without it for awhile without the CEL as soon as I soldered it back in CEL popped up. I'm thinking it's one of the settings I just don't know which one.

Any help???

you need bigger injectors, or a tune. the ECU has maxed out it's fuel trims. or the AFC is not clamping the O2 sensor correctly, causing the ECU to think it's lean. what fuel map are you using?

 

[HondaEat-R]

Alright then: Do you add fuel after the "over-pressure" set point, or right at that cell ? Like if mine was set at 1, would I modify the map at 1 or 2 ? Thanks guys. I've read like every AFC thread, but still have some questions. And I understand that no pre-made map will work perfect for me.

 

[43975]

slighly modded supermap. WRX 440s are in my near future hoping this spring. Why would the AFC not be clamping the 02 sensor correctly??? I get a pretty rough idle until I get that cel as well. The once the cel is on the Idle is spot on

 

[justanothermp5]

open loop is where you can really adjust the afc to control the air fuel mixture.

think of it this way:

closed loop : it's closed to tuning.

open loop: it's open to tuning.

in closed loop the ecu takes the o2 readings and tries to keep the mixture at stoich.

in open look the edu takes pre made maps from mazda and applies them taking into consideration MAF readings.

The AFC controls the MAF readings by either sending a higher or lower signal to the ecu, making it think that it's getting more (higher signal) or less (lower signal) air.

ecu sees less air = less fuel.

ecu sees more air= more fuel.

in closed loop this doesn't work because the ecu is taking the O2 sensor readings, soo lean = more fuel rich = less fuel.

in closed loop you can slightly adjust the settings but usually within a few runs the ecu learns around it. (short term / long term fuel banks)

the O2 clamp (output B ) clamps the o2 signal making the ecu see a lean condition which forces it into openloop where it takes the reading off the maf which you're controlling via the ssafc.

hope that helps.

this does not sound right, open loop you cant tune and closed loop you can
in closed loop the ECU take reading from the O2 sensor to adjust airfuel ratio and since the SSAFC is in between the ECU and O2 sensor it adjusts what readings the ECU thinks the O2 sensor is reading, which is how you tune
along with the MAF readings of course like you mentioned

but the only time the car is in open loop is when you first start it, once it warms up then it goes into closed loop and starts using the O2 sensor readings

 

[HondaEat-R]

this does not sound right, open loop you cant tune and closed loop you can
in closed loop the ECU take reading from the O2 sensor to adjust airfuel ratio and since the SSAFC is in between the ECU and O2 sensor it adjusts what readings the ECU thinks the O2 sensor is reading, which is how you tune
along with the MAF readings of course like you mentioned

but the only time the car is in open loop is when you first start it, once it warms up then it goes into closed loop and starts using the O2 sensor readings

This is incorrect. You're right about it being in open loop when you first start the car, as it is using the coolant temp sensor to determine when warm, and then will switch to closed loop when a certain value is read from that sensor. Mazda has factory maps on the ECU for when you begin to drive aggressively, and I believe this is determined by a RPM vs. TPS table, with MAF readings factored in as well. This throws the car into open loop and the car now will no longer use the O2 sensor to maintain AFRS, and instead just utilize the factory Mazda map on the ECU. The SS-AFC is used to throw the car into open loop at any point, determined by your "over-pressure" setting. You then can effectively tune from that point on. Most people have had little luck with tuning below the over-pressure setting.

 

[justanothermp5]

hm...i had a different understanding but ok ill take our guys word for it

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

the AFC just clamps the O2 sensor putting the ECU in open loop. i'm not 100% but i believe it has to do with the heater circuit, since on a cold start the ecu is in open loop until the o2 sensor heats up, then goes into closed loop. so i believe that how the SS units throw the ecu into open loop without getting a MIL.

also you cannot tune on a narrowband O2 sensor, it flip flops between a rich and lean reading, there is no way to determine acual AFR.

 

[justanothermp5]

yea i just re read the tuning manual i downloaded from SS and i understand it now

while i was reading it, i also saw that they recommend you buy a scan tool so you can determine when the car is in open/closed loop and at what percent the fuel trims are so you can tune more efficiently
they have a link in the manual and the scan tool is only 90 bucks and comes with all cables and even hooks up to your computer so you can have both the SS and the scan tool up at the same time
im def getting that when i start tuning, im about to try the winter FMIC map now and im going to try to get this idle sorted out, ill let you guys know how it goes

 

[boostfreak]

could hot pipes and a dual bpv/hks bov mess up my tune?
do i need a new map?

 

[BadBandar]

Is the SSafc emission legal? I need to get my smog done soon. Any help?

 

[justanothermp5]

it should be, if anything it should help you pass smog because your not sending all that extra fuel into the exhaust

dont take my word for it though