Advice Needed - Considering an MS3

I went ahead and told him that I was planning on selling it private party for $11,000 and I know he can't meet that but I'd like to see how close he can get. I might be playing on the fringe here, but I love my P5 and will walk away from this in a heartbeat if something doesn't feel right.

So far, I gotta say this dealer's been really awesome about things.
 
I went ahead and told him that I was planning on selling it private party for $11,000 and I know he can't meet that but I'd like to see how close he can get. I might be playing on the fringe here, but I love my P5 and will walk away from this in a heartbeat if something doesn't feel right.

So far, I gotta say this dealer's been really awesome about things.


Trust me, don't listen to a word he tells you. Stick to your guns. It is the last day of the month, he will go to great lengths to sell that car today. He might seem like he is being cool, but he is hiding something and they will all get paid no matter what.

demand he takes the P5 for 11K (or a reasonable price based on kbb) or else no deal
 
Got this:

"Obviously selling it yourself would maximize your $ but I am thinking around $7,500. Now that is sight unseen. Could you swing by the Jag store and have one of my managers take a look. I can have all paperwork and new car driven to Baton Rouge for delivery this afternoon.

*****


$21,500 Selling Price
$1,935.00 Taxes (will change if trading car)
$105.50

$23,540.50 Total and trade will reduce"

I should try to get him higher on the trade, no?
 
I told him I'll accept no less than $9000 on the trade. He's probably turning red right about now.
 
I'm taking delivery tomorrow. $21,500 + all weather mats + wheel locks + ipod adapter installed. $8000 trade on the Protege5.

My monthly payments are gonna be cheaper than they were with the P5! I'm gonna be so sad to let my baby go though.

Also, it's crash course in driving stick time!
 
Great work on the bargaining! I'll second that you should probably practice on a friends beater... Don't make the mistake I did having the knowledge on how to drive stick but no practice.. I went straight to the MS3, and while no real harm done I still feel like I should have practiced on something easier for a day or two
 
its like riding a bike; it will all come back to you!

good work with your deal.

congrats on your new car!!

we will be waiting for your next thread "holy crap my MS3 is sooo much more fun than my P5 was!"
 
Well the catch is I only drove the stick for about an hour! Haha! But thanks man. I'm gonna be so sad to see the P5 go. It's a hot little car and there'll never be anything like it again.

I hope it falls into worthy hands.

I forgot to add the dealer is even driving the car to Baton Rouge for me! I don't have to drive 75 miles to get it!

edit: more like "Holy crap I just got 5 speeding tickets!"
 
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1 hour of prior stick driving experience???!!

you should definitely practice on something else first. if not, at least ask the salesman to teach you for at least 30 min when he delivers the car. seriously.
 
I just might do that. Or bring my wife along since her previous car was a 626 with a stick. A MAN being taught by a woman how to drive a stick? Blasphemy right! Haha!

I kid I kid. My wife is awesome and I know she'll love my speed3 and soon want to get a hot hatch of her own to replace her 2005 mazda3i sedan.

I've been doing a lot of reading on driving a stick... even the howto thread in these very forums.

Does the 3 start moving forward when you slowly let out the clutch and don't apply any gas? I was thinking of starting out that way for now since I'm a newbie at this. If that sounds like a bad idea, then I'll do clutch+gas every time.

I'm not that intimidated by starting in first or going through the gears. I'm just a little nervous about traffic (and we have that in spades here in Baton Rouge). I'll have to learn a good technique for 15-30 mph interstate stop-and-start fun I go through frequently.

Any pointers on that would be greatly appreciated. After I sign the paperwork and pick the car up, I'm going to give the dealer a big shoutout in this forum. The guy I was emailing back and forth is the actual owner, and he was really cool about everything (or he's just slick and I'm a moron). Either way, I'm happy!
 
Any vehicle will if you're slow enough letting out the clutch. This is probably going to lead you to stall more often than not, at first, and is also just prolonging first gear starts which in turn prolongs slipping the clutch to get the vehicle moving. This increases clutch wear, and should probably be avoided.

Your goal when driving stick is to avoid slipping the clutch as much as possible. You should really only ever have to do this in first gear starts. I'm not sure if you understand how it works but here's a quick (simplistic) overview for you:

Your engine connects through your transmission to your drive wheels via a clutch plate/flywheel connection. As the engine turns, the flywheel turns, and if they are connected, so does the clutch (and in turn the transmission, and thus the drive wheels). The connection is maintained by friction and pressure. The flywheel and the clutch just press together really hard - hard enough to prevent any slippage, so it is like a single unit. When you clutch in you relieve pressure and seperate the flywheel and the clutch. As you clutch out, the two meet and pressure gradually builds until they are "connected". Take your hands and put them together palms facing each other, like you're clapping. Press together really, really, really hard. Try and slide one hand off the other while pressing in. That's the sort of connection we're talking about.

When you launch in first gear the flywheel (engine) is turning, the tranny (clutch) is not. As the two (hopefully slowly) meet, friction starts to transfer energy through to the clutch, which will start rotating. This is actually a lot of load, however, because the clutch/tranny connects to the drive wheels and hey that's 3100 pounds of vehicle you are trying to get rolling. If you don't give it gas to keep the engine turning, the engine will bog and possibly stall. The other way of doing this is to just ease out on the clutch so slowly that the energy transfer is slow and doesn't risk stalling the motor.

This is the only time you'll want to be slipping out on the clutch, as it is the only time you'll have to gradually overcome a stopped vehicles very (very) high innertia. The rest of the time you will be trying to revmatch, which I'm not going to go into really.

Suffice it to say, you should not be just slowly easing out on the clutch in traffic to get it started. It's not really bad for the vehicle done once in a while, but repeated starts without throttle are just going to be slow, jerky, risk stalling, piss off people behind you as you take forever to get in gear, and wear the clutch far more than you need to. In fact, like all components of the vehicle, you need to break in your clutch (just like you break in the motor or the brakes) with heat cycles and being gentle on it. What you propose isn't going to be gentle on the clutch.

I'll have to learn a good technique for 15-30 mph interstate stop-and-start fun
You could just keep shifting between second and third... good practice for timing coming out on the clutch during upshifts and revmatched downshifts. When I'm in situations like that I just use second gear and cruise along a bit slower than the pace of traffic. I almost always end up having more than enough space in traffic that I can just ease off the gas when traffic slows down and use engine braking to slow down before easing back into the throttle when my lane starts moving again. Sure I have people pull in in front of me, but traffic behind me maintains a fairly steady pace, I rarely if ever have to shift or get on the brakes, and it doesn't cost me much time at all getting from point A to point B. So much less stress than riding the guys ass in front of me...
 
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Thanks man. I will not do the "slowly let out the clutch" thing except for the first time I get in the car to find the initial friction point. What rpms do you guys typically get it to when starting from first? Is 1000 sufficient? 1500?
 
Try to keep your launch anywhere between 1000 and 1500 and try to finally come off the clutch at the speed where first gear would be between 1000 and 1500 to keep it smooth(ish). Be smooth coming off the clutch, no sudden movements. Don't be surprised if this is hard at first as the clutch doesn't have linear resistance. It's really easy at the bottom of the pedal movement, but just before/at the friction point it starts pushing against your foot. This takes a bit to get used to.
 
I picked up the car today. Pics to come later. HOLY s*** THIS CAR IS AWESOME!!! I'm still trying to learn to drive it properly (at least I can get it moving without killing it). Now I know what it's all about. This car is ridiculously awesome.
 
Pics as promised:

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Thanks to all for helping me make this happen. I'm still learning to drive it (first timer with a stick) but I'm getting the hang of it. I drove it to work today and spent some time in bumper-to-bumper traffic. Only stalled in the DMV parking lot while I was dropping off the license plate from my old car.

I'd like to give a huge shoutout to Paretti Mazda in New Orleans, Louisiana.

http://www.paretti.com/Pages/home.shtml

Trust me, I don't work for them. They treated me perfectly and didn't even try to sneak in dealer fees or any of that crap. Even gave me a bottle of champagne after we signed the papers!
 

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