A Rebuild Story - A Forged MP3 Motor
- Thread starter TurfBurn
- Start date
I'm swapping out oil the first time after the first 100-200 miles and switching the filter.. then I'll swap filters again at about 700 miles, and then I'll switch over to synthetic and a new filter yet again at 1000 miles... I'm also going to flush and drain the cooling system once during that period.
and the stuff I read said that the modifiers create a film that the rings can't break through... because of that, they don't seat in as well as they should and thus you end up with a poorer run in... so that's what my last bit of research turned up... I'll lean toward that... hell of a lot cheaper too 
Later guys.
Later guys.
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
May I make a suggestion?
Upon intial start-up (especially yours with the ecu not controlling it, excessive fuel, heat, etc. are a possibility) a TON of wear occurs. I have always started the car up initially with 30weight non detergent oil and gm friction modifier (I'll get the official name tommorow), let the cams, etc. break in, go through 2 heat cycles, then shut it off hot. Drain the oil, check for leaks etc (this gives you a chance to catch your breath and get the smile off your face, plus a chance to check the oil for metal, etc.). Let it cool down, then fill it back up with the same oil and another bottle of the gm stuff. Then take it for a ride varying the rpms.
Upon intial start-up (especially yours with the ecu not controlling it, excessive fuel, heat, etc. are a possibility) a TON of wear occurs. I have always started the car up initially with 30weight non detergent oil and gm friction modifier (I'll get the official name tommorow), let the cams, etc. break in, go through 2 heat cycles, then shut it off hot. Drain the oil, check for leaks etc (this gives you a chance to catch your breath and get the smile off your face, plus a chance to check the oil for metal, etc.). Let it cool down, then fill it back up with the same oil and another bottle of the gm stuff. Then take it for a ride varying the rpms.
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
Engine oil supplement. part # 1052367
It is designed for engine break in period.
It is designed for engine break in period.
Well, she's in the engine bay, belts are on... everything is coming together. I'm touching up wiring and I have to do some fuel system things. Hopefully she'll fire to life tomorrow! We've had endless amounts of little "problems" the turbo didn't fit (and still doesn't fit all that well), trouble finding some bolts, bad wiring spots here and there, broke the transmission part last week, and all sorts of little things. But bit by bit we are getting there! I'll do a lot of updates and pictures and some video as well once I finish up. So stay tuned, but it is coming along nicely.
Later!
Steve
Later!
Steve
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
Sounds like your gonna beat me by a week.
- :
- MP5T / 944
TurfBurn said:
When you are about to install the belts with all the cooling system installed, get a drill and give the water pump a quick spin...
- :
- MP5T / 944
BlkZoomZoom said:
I'm planning for Firiday...
Looks great brian!
Thanks for the tip on the coolant... I'll have to see if I can work that in when i do it tomorrow. I got most of the rewire completed tonight... got the clutch bled, verified the gears all work (I took the tranny apart a couple times... again) and I've been working out the clearances and the like for the downpipe. So it is coming along. I'm going to finish the exhaust and the transmission stuff, and then put the final wires in place and do the interior in the morning.. and then I should be good to go. I'm hoping to fire it up a little after noon tomorrow. Here's hoping at least!
I'm debating on what to do with my wastegate. I'm thinking about pinning it open so I can be harsh on the throttle and not build too much boost... but we'll see... hopefully the break in goes well!
Later.
Thanks for the tip on the coolant... I'll have to see if I can work that in when i do it tomorrow. I got most of the rewire completed tonight... got the clutch bled, verified the gears all work (I took the tranny apart a couple times... again) and I've been working out the clearances and the like for the downpipe. So it is coming along. I'm going to finish the exhaust and the transmission stuff, and then put the final wires in place and do the interior in the morning.. and then I should be good to go. I'm hoping to fire it up a little after noon tomorrow. Here's hoping at least!
I'm debating on what to do with my wastegate. I'm thinking about pinning it open so I can be harsh on the throttle and not build too much boost... but we'll see... hopefully the break in goes well!
Later.
Well many hours later she is so close I can feel it... but not on the road yet... It has power and all systems and gauges all checked out. That was a big relief. I did find that my fuel system still had issues... no matter how far I cranked down the AEM FPR I kept getting to only about 22 psi which isn't enough... so I pulled the fuel pump and messed around with it... found two problems.. one o-ring was shifted a little so I got it back in place, and I also discovered that the walbro intank pump I have is just that bit too long such that the outlet on the pump bottomed out in the o-ring seal before the plastic compression retainer would get a chance to start smashing the o-ring to improve the seal. So I cut my old o ring apart and put an extra bit of gasket in there and then put it all back together. Tossed in the tank and like magic I now have a nice solid 42 psi in my fuel system!
otherwise, no fuel, coolant, or oil leaks thus far. Tuesday night is my next free night. I'll slap the suspension back on the car and go about working on priming the motor with fuel and coolant and then firing it up.. one of the great mystersies currently though is my lug nuts are nowhere to be seen!!! So that might make driving a bit more difficult LOL. Hopefully I'll locate them soon and that will be taken care of. I have lots more pictures and I'll post when I can. Time for some sleep.
Later
Steve
otherwise, no fuel, coolant, or oil leaks thus far. Tuesday night is my next free night. I'll slap the suspension back on the car and go about working on priming the motor with fuel and coolant and then firing it up.. one of the great mystersies currently though is my lug nuts are nowhere to be seen!!! So that might make driving a bit more difficult
LOL. Hopefully I'll locate them soon and that will be taken care of. I have lots more pictures and I'll post when I can. Time for some sleep.Later
Steve
- :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
as we learned, lugs nuts are easily.... forgotten (omg)
- :
- 09 370Z Nismo
Don't forget, when you first start the car, hold the gas pedal all the way down, (flooring it) and start the car. It keeps the fuel pump from turning on, allowing the starter to pump oil and coolant around the motor without firing it. It's good for priming.
- :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
or just unplug the injectors and unplug the coil packs 
much easier
much easier
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
You don't want the motor to turn over excessively without being fired for the first time. In theory you want it to start immediately.
BlkZoomZoom said:
Not what I've heard, but you know your stuff... What I've heard is that it is important to build up oil pressure in the system before the first start up. The turbo needs it and getting oil on the squirters and under the pistons is important as well. I plan on priming it two or three times until I get pressure on the gauge.. then I'll start it up.
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- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
Priming it usually means turning JUST the oil pump to build pressure. On our cars you have to turn the crankshaft to turn the oil pump which means you are turning over the whole engine assy. So you are spinning the engine over at what 300-400rpm (max.) on the starter? It will take alot longer to build pressure at that rpm then it would if you just started the car and ran at idle (900rpm approx.) There is very little load on the engine when at idle.
Spinning the motor on the starter is like an extended start period for the motor (in which everybody knows the most wear occurs). It is better to have the start period as short as possible and get up to an rpm in which oil pressure can build very quickly. As far as turbo concerns, I usually run some oil through the turbo before I put the feed line on, just to get it alittle wet. On top of that, the turbo doesn't really spin too fast when just idling along, in which not alot of wear should occur.
Spinning the motor on the starter is like an extended start period for the motor (in which everybody knows the most wear occurs). It is better to have the start period as short as possible and get up to an rpm in which oil pressure can build very quickly. As far as turbo concerns, I usually run some oil through the turbo before I put the feed line on, just to get it alittle wet. On top of that, the turbo doesn't really spin too fast when just idling along, in which not alot of wear should occur.
