A Rebuild Story - A Forged MP3 Motor

[TurfBurn]

I'm planning on replacing them at the end of each season... so about 8,000 miles or less... I'll probably inspect them at the midway point just to be sure... but never know... I've tossed around the idea of using stockers... as I don't think I'm gaining that much with the Toga's... so that's why I'm still wondering a bit at this point.. I need to talk to and defer to the more knowledgeable types of Nick and Beau.

 

[terbow]

when i was building my cav, the engine people said, use stockers.. look at it this way, they were designed to last 100,000 miles plus. they arent bad.

i think thats true. id stick to stockers.

 

[jurgs01]

Subscribing. Just saw this thread. Will get some good use out of it when the summer comes around.

 

[Mike R]

2400*C? Damn that's hot. That'll melt...well almost anything!! Sure it's not 2400*F?

*F *C Material
<TABLE style="BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" borderColor=#111111 cellSpacing=3 cellPadding=2 border=1><TBODY><TR><TD align=right>2500 </TD><TD align=right>1353 </TD><TD>Steel-High Carbon Melts</TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>2550 </FONT></TD><TD align=right>1363 </FONT></TD><TD>Stainless Steel Melts</FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>2540</FONT></TD><TD align=right>1393</FONT></TD><TD>Inconel Ni+Cr+Fe</FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>2588</FONT></TD><TD align=right>1420</FONT></TD><TD>Silicon Melts</FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>2600 </FONT></TD><TD align=right>1427 </FONT></TD><TD>Medium Carbon Steel Melts</FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>2651</FONT></TD><TD align=right>1455</FONT></TD><TD>Nickel (Ni) Melts</FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>2700 </FONT></TD><TD align=right>1464 </FONT></TD><TD>Low Carbon Steel Melts</FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>2786 </FONT></TD><TD align=right>1530 </FONT></TD><TD>Iron Melts</FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>3034</FONT></TD><TD align=right>1615</FONT></TD><TD>Chromium Cr</FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>3110</FONT></TD><TD align=right>1710</FONT></TD><TD>Quartz Melts </FONT><TT>(for cristobalite)</FONT></TT></TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>3224</FONT></TD><TD align=right>1773</FONT></TD><TD>Platinum Melts (Swest)</FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>3263</FONT></TD><TD align=right>1795</FONT></TD><TD>Titanium Ti</FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>3434</FONT></TD><TD align=right>1890</FONT></TD><TD>Chromium Melts (jewelry book)</FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>3632</FONT></TD><TD align=right>2000</FONT></TD><TD>Quartz Melted (glass or fused quartz)</FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>

</TD><TD align=right>2050</FONT>

</TD><TD>

Alumina Al2O3(MF)</FONT>
​

</TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>4800</TD><TD align=right>2620</TD><TD>Molybdenum Melts (used in quartz melting crucibles)</TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>5432 </TD><TD align=right>3000 </TD><TD>Tungsten Melts</TD></TR><TR><TD align=right>6512</TD><TD align=right>3600</TD><TD>Carbon</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

[Brian MP5T]

I'm planning on replacing them at the end of each season... so about 8,000 miles or less... I'll probably inspect them at the midway point just to be sure... but never know... I've tossed around the idea of using stockers... as I don't think I'm gaining that much with the Toga's... so that's why I'm still wondering a bit at this point.. I need to talk to and defer to the more knowledgeable types of Nick and Beau.

If you do that, might I suggest that you drill out the tranny bell in the two places where the 10mm bolts are and then fill the hole with a threaded bolt when not in use. It would allow you to pull the bottom end off without having to disconect the tranny...

 

[TurfBurn]

If you do that, might I suggest that you drill out the tranny bell in the two places where the 10mm bolts are and then fill the hole with a threaded bolt when not in use. It would allow you to pull the bottom end off without having to disconect the tranny...

Did it already LOL... it helps so much!!

 

[TurfBurn]

2400*C? Damn that's hot. That'll melt...well almost anything!! Sure it's not 2400*F?

You are correct. I either misread it, or it was mispublished where I got the number the first time... here is their tech page which explanes that the super alloy is a 2000-2400 F alloy.... which is quite good since Iconel is the normal "top of the line" and that is only rated for about 1800!

Thanks for pointing that out!

http://www.ferrea.com/valvestech.php

 

[Brian MP5T]

Did it already LOL... it helps so much!!

I'm doing mine as well. Should be done to all of them. I ****** around for about 5 Min trying to get that plate off before I realised that it was hooked to the engine inside the tranny...:mad:

 

[low_psi]

You guys are making me jealous

 

[TurfBurn]

Well found some more possible bad news .... took my manifold off my turbo for the first time... the good news was ther wasn't a lot of oil or any metal in the turbo, so that's a good thing. But the turbine blades are a bit chipped/eaten on the leading edge. Not anything too bad, but visible nonetheless. Also, the manfiold has a crack/hole in it. So I either need to try and get it patched or I'll have to have a new one jigged and made. Leaning toward the repair for now... but we'll see what I do in the future as the engine build progresses/finished.

Later!

Steve

 

[KzA]

I dont know man..with such built engine and everything all nice and perfect..That patch in your manifold would be a weak point..depending on the severity of it, I would say get a new one..there are plenty to choose from nowadays

 

[azian6er]

just get a new mani and turbo while you are at it.

might as well.

-B

 

[TurfBurn]

just get a new mani and turbo while you are at it.

might as well.

-B

Easily said, but $1200's done

 

[TurfBurn]

I dont know man..with such built engine and everything all nice and perfect..That patch in your manifold would be a weak point..depending on the severity of it, I would say get a new one..there are plenty to choose from nowadays

it's a welded manni, so "patching" it is really just rewelding a joint. So it's no different in the long run if done properly. The turbo I do have semi budgeted in right now... and if I replace it, I'll have it ported out as well to flow even more air. But I guess I'll see as I get closer. The mani is the big "if". The turbo I'll likely just replace.

 

[igdrasil]

1,200???? are you going to buy a new turbo kit?????????????

nah man, now that I know a bitr more, I dont pay more than 700 for one.

 

[TurfBurn]

well it'd be about 600 for the turbo with it ported out, and then about 600 for a new manifold... so 1200 total.

 

[igdrasil]

hm ok...

well, im now looking for the old spool manifold design. I dont know, but I think mine (new design) is more show than go. I want all runner go directly into the turbine, not like mine that 2 runners meet and then go into the turbine. Check it...what you think?

this is the one im running now.

this is the one I want and previously had, I think this one is better...dont you think?:

 

[TurfBurn]

I currently have that old design. and it looks like based on a quick quote, that I'll be doing what I can to salvage it if possible. I hvae a one of a kind Spool Mani as mine mates to a 16G and has a totally different turbo position from the other kits out there (sits higher and more to the driver's side I believe).

 

[NSNMotorsports]

Ordered the gasket kit for the car... ouch. 299 dollars to do the tranny and motor. That's with the discount from mazdaformance.com. Slightly painful! i budgeted like 150ish, so double, but oh well, and I got a stock head gasket to work with if I need it.

 

[igdrasil]

Ordered the gasket kit for the car... ouch. 299 dollars to do the tranny and motor. That's with the discount from mazdaformance.com. Slightly painful! i budgeted like 150ish, so double, but oh well, and I got a stock head gasket to work with if I need it.

did you tried mazdastuff.com.

They are the best!!! I asked him about a full gasket set also, 1 year ago, and they told me I should better buy them all separate because its cheaper...and thats what I did.

And another thing is...626 2.0L uses the same gasket, a bit different in how it manages the water flow. I have pics of them side by side if you want to see.

And of course, $40.00 cheaper.