A Rebuild Story - A Forged MP3 Motor

Aricjm15 said:
do you have "gapless" style piston rings? if you do check your PCV for blow by
Click to expand...

No I have standard rings.. and gapped pretty widely at that to deal with the heat... I'll check the PCV... but remember I'm not burning the oil if the PCV was at fault it'd be sucking oil into the intake tracks and I'd be burning it... and I'm not seeing an fouling on those plugs either.. so I'm still not sure where it is going... occasionally at a stop light I can smell it... part of why I suspect my oil feed line for the turbo.
 
Another update:

still having trouble with the wastegate/actuator... I'm going to put an MBC on it and see if that will fix the issue, or at least tell me if the EBC is the problem..

Figured out the oil issue... looks like I likely have a valve seal issue... the smoke arrives during long decel etc... had someone follow me and only during decel for an extended period did any smoke pop up.. hard acceleration, crusing, etc there was no trace... So that is unfortunate, but it isn't serious enough to worry about right now, so I'll let it ride unless consumption goes up drastically... for now I'm going to stick with Valvoline 10W-40 oil.

Had a coolant leaking issue... ended up it was a two fold issue. Found a hose I missed a clamp on that finally let loose enough to create a decent leak... also the seals in the water pump went... probably from the insane heat on the dyno.... I'm getting a reasonable amount of fluid leakage out through the vent holes on the water pump casing, so that is the ID for a bad water pump. So I have that pulled off right now and the motor drained... I'll pop a new pump on Friday or Saturday and be up and running for my race on Sunday...

That's about it for now.. with issues ID'ed I feel better about upping the boost. I'll also be putting in the transmission cooling system in the next couple weeks I hope.

Later!

Steve
 
Update for you guys...

Turns out that even with an MBC I still had major actuator problems and couldn't get the car to hold anything consistently above about 13 psi... I got 13 psi more stable, but couldn't do much better...

I finally located and bought an affordable 15 psi actuator... so that will be my new "base" which is funny as that will be more than I currently run. But it should be fine. I have figured out that my timing is still more conservative than it needs to be and I will be upping that with time here... Also, I am fitting my new transmisison cooler setup to it this coming week when the parts come in and that will be available through NSN as well. It's a sweet sweet setup and you'll be impressed when you see how it fits into the car and so forth. Very top notch :).

Overall, car is doing great. Oil consumption is still there, but seems to have dwindled some and has gone down... the last set of logs yielded consumption of about 1/2 quart in 600 miles... not great, but not terrible either. I believe the rings simply have not seated all the way yet, or may have a problem in that department... but overall, things are great and she is sick fast :).
 
good stuff Steve, I still want the tranny cooler as we discussed a while ago :)
 
Yeah, mine will go on this week, and Kooldino is also going to test one within a week or two as well... then they'll be publicly for sale :) but yeah you are at the top of the list.
 
Brian MP5T said:
Nifty, The Cooler, Does it just pump the fluid from the gearbox through a cooler??
Click to expand...

from what I discussed with him yeah thats pretty much what it is, but the kit will include everything, the hoses, NPT connectors, mounting brackets etc
 
That won't do much for a single 1/4 mile, but will probably help alot on track style racing or repeated 1/4 Mile runs!
 
Brian MP5T said:
That won't do much for a single 1/4 mile, but will probably help alot on track style racing or repeated 1/4 Mile runs!
Click to expand...

you might be right, but I guess only time will tell

I know he said that he was changing it to the redline gear oil as well so that will help out as well, either way it wont hurt :)

but this would be more of a long term solution than just a 1/4 mile obviously
 
The cooler will generate more cross flow on the gears as well because of the positioning of the tap points... and it will help keep the temperatures down enough to ensure that there isn't any issue relative to the heat that gets into that box... From what I know of everybody I've talked to that has popped a gear not a single person has done it on a first 1/4 or when they first get out on the road.. it's always a latent thing... which would indicate a heat buildup etc... it may also be a long term thing where heat causes other wear etc and that then leads to the problems that are seen.. all in all I think it will be a good thing... whether or not it is a "solution" will be determined down the road... I hope to go to around 18 psi and see if I can pop the trans or not... if I can't pop it by winter I would say that it's a reasonable fix then for those sorts of boost levels... but who knows... Dana is also going to run one and we'll see if it helps him or not too... I believe Tekkie will pick a setup up as well so while I can't give any proof of it being useful yet, hopefully it will prove itself out over time... :)
 
I agree with the Colder Gearbox Idea and the Motion of Oil Will not hurt. Is it a gear/belt drivin pump or an electric pump. The pump itself must be rather unusual to be able to pump hypoid 80w90 when cold, or is it on a switch after you have driven and the oil is a bit less viscos?? Questions Questions...
 
The pump is designed specifically for gear oil and heavy fluids. They do recommend for the life of the pump to have a switch to turn it on when things warm up some... definitley not recommended to run the gear oil through in the winter when it is super cold... I'm going to have mine triggered off the engine water temp... I'll assume that by the time the motor gets to operating temp the trans is warming and can start being circulated... but yeah it's a doozy of a pump and it is rated for 2 gpm at 30 psi.


Oh.. it's electric.. and it pulls about 6 amps.
 
you are having that triggered from the microtech right? I guess I will just put in a switch for now its not a big deal
 
Yeah, I'm doing it from the Microtech... you could also trigger it based off the fans on the car... since those don't coe on until you get to temp... use that signal to trigger a relay to turn the pump on...

I am hoping to figure out a way to do a thermostat for it too... but that's a work in progress as well.

later,

Steve
 
TurfBurn said:
Yeah, I'm doing it from the Microtech... you could also trigger it based off the fans on the car... since those don't coe on until you get to temp... use that signal to trigger a relay to turn the pump on...

I am hoping to figure out a way to do a thermostat for it too... but that's a work in progress as well.

later,

Steve
Click to expand...

Yeah but if you do it like that you could technically be doing 180 Km/h down the highway with 200 Deg Tranny and never get the cooler to turn on...
 
Right... but in most cases the fans would be running... but yeah, definitely want to ensure that it has the fan on when it is supposed to. I'm looking at possibly using adjustable electric thermostats... I'm trying to determine... and it'll be a testing thing... whether or not the case can be used for triggering, or if the fluid needs to be sampled somehow... i think a manual switch may end up being the best overall option...
 
I will be running thermocoupled tests to verify how this performs etc too... be able to post results of how the temps changed etc.
 
TurfBurn said:
Right... but in most cases the fans would be running... but yeah, definitely want to ensure that it has the fan on when it is supposed to. I'm looking at possibly using adjustable electric thermostats... I'm trying to determine... and it'll be a testing thing... whether or not the case can be used for triggering, or if the fluid needs to be sampled somehow... i think a manual switch may end up being the best overall option...
Click to expand...

Manual... I agree, Simple and it would do what it's supposed to, unlike what you have suggested, I fear...
 
You know there is always someone that wants/needs it auto though... but I do agree that manual is best and by far the most simple
 
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