A night at the track

djdanny5000

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2007 Mazdaspeed 6 GT Retired: 2002 Protege 5
So I finally went to the track yesterday for the first time. I wanted to hit 13's but couldnt do anything better then a 14 flat. I ran consistent 14.2 14.3. My current mods are the MS CAI, 2.5" Inlet pipe, SU 2.5" Test Pipe, HKS BOV, Cobb AP Stage 1. My best run of the night was when i had just gotten there and ran it for the second try. These were the numbers:
R/T ... .318
60' ... 1.889
330 ... 5.846
1/8 ... 9.025
MPH... 75.40
1000... 11.749
1/4 ... 14.039
MPH ... 98.37

I had my subwoffer system in the trunk and my tire pressure was at 28. Next time i go i'm going to take out the system and bring down my tire pressure a bit more and im going to try the stage 2 + MSCAI map for the Cobb AP and see if I can hit 13's. What do you guys think?
 
Nice reaction time!

Are you spinning your tires during launch? If not, then why the reduced tire pressure?
 
What kind of track temperature, humidity, and tires are you working with?

Depending on the tire, as you said previously you could probably go down as far as 22psi and get better bite. You lose the extra equipment, drop it to a quarter-tank of gas, go down to 22psi and you're probably going to drop .15 off your time just doing that. That is quite a nice R/T though. That's the hard part, my friend. Good work.
 
Well im im florida so its pretty humid and it was raining so it was realy humid! I was also on a full tank of gas cause i had just filled her up right before my buddy called asking me if i wanted to go out to the track. Thats cool that everyone seems to like my R/T i had a few runs where i had a R/T of .03 or .0 something but i only ran like a 14.2 or something.
 
Air becomes less dense with an increase in humidity. Oxygen (and sometimes Nitrogen) are replaced by water molecules. The higher the humidity, the less air your engine will be able to intake. The less dense the air is that you are taking into the engine, the less power your engine will make.

If you had those same runs in a dry-air climate, you would see considerable differences in time and speed.
 
nice times,, u might want to think of getting that rear diff mount, especially if u keep doing a bunch of runs at the track..its worth the 300 bucks, u dont wanna snap the weak stock mount at the track, ull have a really bad night..tow trucks arent fun..
 
Boosted and I tend to agree with a lot of things. If you're going to do a lot of straight-line racing, and furthermore... hard launches... you'll want to brace the car as much as possible to limit body twist (where engine torque overcomse the car's structural rigidity). You lose power, and if you add enough power, can permanently damage the car's frame or drivetrain.

Conversely, when you start really "hooking up" at the track because of this, you can incidently reach the material and design limits of a lot of components.

For example, I used to drag a 71 SS Nova (8.09 @171mph). The first few times I really got it to stick, I was on fire. A couple runs after that success, I ended up stripping the ring gear of the GM 10-bolt rear differential.
 
i had a recent track excursion myself. first timer. i wasnt expecting much but i did worse than i expected. IIRC my best run was .685 R/T, 14.8 at just under 95 mph.
goin back this week end to try to get a lil better. drag racing sure is much harder than it looks.
 
i had a recent track excursion myself. first timer. i wasnt expecting much but i did worse than i expected. IIRC my best run was .685 R/T, 14.8 at just under 95 mph.
goin back this week end to try to get a lil better. drag racing sure is much harder than it looks.

Mistersix, you should try to be consistently around .450 on your R/T. If you can manage to do that consistently, you will have a solid foundation to build the rest of your time on.
 
yeah slip the clutch. takes some practice though.

thats my goal blendercloud, get my r/t down. i bogged 3 outta five runs so i didnt shift to hard on the flubbed runs. my sixty foot times sucked to. so thats my focus. once i get those down i should get a respectable time. (maybe)
 
WOT boxes (or the final version of the Cobb software) will drastically help your 1/4 times as well.
 
boosted and blender, i am deffinately going to get the rear diff mount. Thats actually one of the things i was scared of while i was at the track, i was praying the whole night that my rear diff wouldnt snap, my 4wd light actually came on once as i was going down the track and i freaked. and lynnrider, everyone says slip the clutch but i cant seem to get any good launches from slipping the clutch i end up burning it, so what i do (which everyone is probably going to hate me for) is rev it to about 4.5k rpm and pop the clutch. If you get it right the car just takes off!
 
boosted and blender, i am deffinately going to get the rear diff mount. Thats actually one of the things i was scared of while i was at the track, i was praying the whole night that my rear diff wouldnt snap, my 4wd light actually came on once as i was going down the track and i freaked. and lynnrider, everyone says slip the clutch but i cant seem to get any good launches from slipping the clutch i end up burning it, so what i do (which everyone is probably going to hate me for) is rev it to about 4.5k rpm and pop the clutch. If you get it right the car just takes off!

If you have some money to burn, I would practice on that clutch and replace it when you've got a good feel for launching the car.
 
Wish i had money burn... I actually tried slipping the clutch one time while at the track and when i went to grab my time slip the guy looks at me and says "Somethinng smells funky"
 
boosted and blender, i am deffinately going to get the rear diff mount. Thats actually one of the things i was scared of while i was at the track, i was praying the whole night that my rear diff wouldnt snap, my 4wd light actually came on once as i was going down the track and i freaked. and lynnrider, everyone says slip the clutch but i cant seem to get any good launches from slipping the clutch i end up burning it, so what i do (which everyone is probably going to hate me for) is rev it to about 4.5k rpm and pop the clutch. If you get it right the car just takes off!


well i wouldnt suggest "popping" it anymore or the pop ull hear is that rear diff mount.. lol.. get the mount ASAP
 
Another thing in addition to the rear diff. brace would be a new set of springs. Any increase in spring tension will help limit the 'bucking' of the car from front to rear at take off. If you can limit that, you should see better times as well.

Lynnrider, there have been posts about how to launch this car, this isn't the thread for them. Search the 6 section and you'll find them.
 
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