90 rx-7 for $1500

blkspdfreak

Member
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03 black msp and silver p5
well i own a msp and a p5. there is a rx7 around the corner for sale for $1500. body is covered in primer, dents here and there, some minor rust. my dad owned a body shop so no worries there. the car has 85k on it with the original 13b in it. guy put a home made intake and filter but its all stock otherwise. he has some bbs look alike that need some tlc. interior has all parts but deff needs to be cleaned. I like the look of the fc, but it does need a lot of work and its an automatic. what should i look for as far as the motor? any tell tale signs of it being driven hard? or any advice? looking for it to be a project, im not looking to build a 1,000 hp out of it but make a nice weekend cruiser. maybe some low offset rims and a nice stance, keep it clean. any help or insight will help.
 
I wouldn't pay that much for it. Chances r u will need to rebuild the engine and I would swap out the auto if it were me.

Is it a TII or a non turbo model?
 
non turbo. im not to worried about the motor blowing. it would be easier to put in a 350, and then i can get rid of the auto tranny while im at it. i was thinking of like $900 cash, just because of the body work/paint that needs to be done.
 
Ah, don't ruin a rx7 with a v8....

Why would anyone do that I will never know...

Offer $500 and go from there
 
yea it's not really a revered idea to put a piston motor in a rotary car. it will throw off the balance and anyone who owns a rotary will probably frown. that is just an FYI. as far as the motor is concerned, check to see if there is an excessive amount of smoke at start up, if there is a sweet smell in the exhaust that means the coolant seals are probably done and will need a partial rebuild, and doing the "champagne test" to see if the coolant seals are fine. you can use a compression tester and see how the compression is in the engine.

if the motor is in good working order, and was taken care of it might last you till 200k.

as a general rule of thumb, an rx7 with a blown motor is only usually worth 300-500. with a good motor, it can be worth between 1k or maybe 3k if it is in perfect condition. let me know if you have any more questions about buying. i paid too much for my vert but i built it up to something nice.
 
dont you dare put a v8 in there. and also remember that if it hasnt beeen driven very hard, the motor should be fine. and its an auto so it cant have been driven THAT hard. in a rotary there are a lot less moving parts, giving it a much longer life.
 
dont you dare put a v8 in there. and also remember that if it hasnt beeen driven very hard, the motor should be fine. and its an auto so it cant have been driven THAT hard. in a rotary there are a lot less moving parts, giving it a much longer life.
Um, you should not be giving advise on this subject as you clearly have little understanding. Sure the Wankel engines have less moving parts but in general, they are MUCH less reliable and durable than piston engines.

Everything duo2999 said is pretty much correct although even I would say 200k miles, even on an N/A, may be pushing it. The N/A's generally have a much longer life than the turbo motors (my '89 has 105k and is still going strong) but they can still pop easily. Definitely have the guy start it for you and make sure it's started cold - you'll want to find any cold start issues, if any. Generally a good thing to ask is the oil consumption. If they say it doesn't consume any then they're either lying through their teeth or they don't have any idea how a rotary works. In either case that's a red flag. Other than that, like duo said just check for weird sounds, smells, sights, CELs, etc.

Price-wise $1500 seems too high based on your description. If you can point out key flaws and realistic figures to correct them offer like $500 and go from there as mentioned above. Even if everything looks "cleanable" remember these cars are 20+ years old.

As far as swaps go, personally I see no reason to own an RX-7 if you aren't going to keep it Wankel-powered. There are plenty of V8 swaps out there but if you were dead-set on going that direction I'd show some effort and at least go with a fuel-injected LS1 or better. The over all weight of the engine is very similar to the stock 13B so the "balance" of the car won't be affected too much at all. But again, it's my opinion that if you want something with that particular body style with a piston engine you're better off looking for an S13 240 or something like that. If you plan on keeping the 13B and swapping transmissions that might be tricky, but certainly easier than the task with a Protege or something similar. There were lots of these cars made so used parts are pretty easy to find at junkyards and whatnot. Just remember as far as drivetrains go you cannot mix and match TII and N/A parts. Without custom parts a TII transmission requires a TII driveshaft and a TII differential, etc. and the same for the N/A. It's the wiring harness where things get tricky.

If you have any other questions feel free to ask. I've only had my '89 GXL for about two years now but I've learned a lot and I'm currently in the process of a full rear-end overhaul. There's only a few of us RX-7 owners on these forums so don't be too disheartened if you don't get a response for a couple days.
 
thanks guys, i passed on the deal. i assume he sold it already because i see some kid beating the crap out of it. thanks for the info though. i didn't know the na/tII parts weren't swappable without some work. good to know when i do find a TII in decent condition....soon though, i sold my msp so the p5 has to hold me over...
 
Good call. At least for my area of the country it sounded overpriced for what you wanted it for.

And for posterity in this thread, I have no issues with an LSX swapped car...properly done. IMO it's just another performance mod, albeit a major one. Way more revolting than any V8 swap are tasteless and ill-fitting body-kits, huge wings, goofy stickers, slammed suspensions with rediculous negative camber, silly looking scoops etc.
 

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