5 channel amp vs multiple amps

[yay for cars]

a message below got me thinking about 5 channel amps. is there much sound difference between powering 4 speakers and a sub off of a 5 channel amp than there is powering the speakers off one amp and the sub off another? i would guess that one amp wouldnt be as loud with only one amp, but im assuming it would be substantially louder and better sounding that the P5 stock system, with better speakers and a head unit of course. i had planned on running 4 speakers with a 10" sub, would a 5 channel amp be the best choice?

 

[macklum]

If space is at a premium go with a 5 channel .if not use 1 4 channel amp for the speakers and a class D anp for your sub . You will then have 2 seperate power supplies for each .

 

[yay for cars]

If space is at a premium go with a 5 channel .if not use 1 4 channel amp for the speakers and a class D anp for your sub . You will then have 2 seperate power supplies for each .

what exactly do you mean by "if space is at a premium"? also, i just wanted to add that im trying to keep costs down, so im assuming the single amp will be cheaper, but i just want to make sure it wont have a bad effect on the sound quality.
thanks

 

[1sty]

A 5 channel will have no negative effect on sound quality when compared to two similar amps.
You are very correct that 2 amps of similair power to 1 5 channel are more expensive .
If you are staying at low power levels then a 5 channel is fine. 5 channels range anywhere from $250 for the Alpine Sir Nuke used and get get over $600 like JLs absolutly amazing 5 channel the 500/5. Alpine and kenwood have some higher power models available. I don't know of any 5 channel with more then 250 watts rms to the sub channel and most have to be at a 4 ohm load.

Whats your budget and eventual goal in this system. Also many 5 channels have speaker level inputs so you can hook a factory head unit up to it with out high to low converters.

 

[yay for cars]

my goals, no particular order:
-make some cash first (im a kid that needs to find a job so i can afford this)
-replace speakers. i know this will make a world of difference sound wise.
-10 inch sub. i listen to punk rock mainly, so i dont need enormous amounts of bass, but i would like it to sound good without overpowering the rest of the sound.
-new face. this i am not sure about, but i figure that if i am going to spend a lot of money on a system, i might as well not skimp on things by keeping the stock face.
-amps. now im thinking the 5 channel because i dont need so much power for the sub that would require a seperate amp. at least i dont think so.

thats all i can think of for now. i have no set budget, because i dont have nearly enough money yet, but i would like to keep costs down and still have a loud, good sounding system. any suggestions, comments, etc.?

 

[1sty]

If you have a newer Protege and have the cd player then for a small system like you looking for doen't need a new head unit, It may be basicly useless. Unless you really need like XM or MP3 cpability. Otherwise the upgrade Sir Nuke did will do very well for you too. If you want some more power there are more powerful 5 channels then Nukes.

 

[yay for cars]

all right, ill take that into account. yes, my p5 has the CD player in it, so maybe ill keep that stock, although i was under the impression that it made a big difference to the sound. if not, this saves a lot of money. ive got one other wuestion though. since i dont want to screw it up, i was planning on getting most of it installed by a professional, such as the power wires to the battery and such. since ill get some of it installed, would it be better to just get it all installed at the saame time, or should i do any of it myself?

 

[Sir Nuke]

all right, ill take that into account. yes, my p5 has the CD player in it, so maybe ill keep that stock, although i was under the impression that it made a big difference to the sound. if not, this saves a lot of money. ive got one other wuestion though. since i dont want to screw it up, i was planning on getting most of it installed by a professional, such as the power wires to the battery and such. since ill get some of it installed, would it be better to just get it all installed at the saame time, or should i do any of it myself?

you can search around for the audio threads I have posted and been part of to keep your stock head unit....as 1st told you...I did this very install and am totally pleased with it..

I kept the stock head unit...when THEIVES look in my car they see nothing but the stock unit...and since the package tray is still in...AND the windows are tinted REALLY dark...no one can see my sub box either.

I did as you want....I replaced the speakers in all the doors (I personally used Rockford Fosgate speakers)...was a piece of cake with the proper instructions off of a web site someone pointed me to here on the board...here is the site.

P-5 sound system install information

I put the JL Audio 10" sub in the back...I actually baught one of their subs IN a box....the part number is CS110R-W0 and the 5 channel amp I have puts out 40 watts RMS to the door speakers and 120 amps RMS to the sub....it may not win any contests...but it thumps pretty hard....I love it.

IF you are going to have a shop do the part of the wirining you mentioned...which is really not that hard...you might as well have them do the whole thing....the HARDEST part is the speaker wires from the dash to the amp and back to the dash.....

 

[yay for cars]

ok, thanks everyone, i think i know what i want to do now, i just need to clear up a few discrepencies.
1. just to make sure, if i were to install it myself, would i need to replace anything such as wiring or harnesses? would i need to drill any holes?

2. is it necessary to get those line converter things if you use an amp with line level inputs?

3. nuke, where did you put the sub and which way did you point it? id like to keep trunk space if possible.

4. can i replace the speakers before getting an amp to drive them with?

5. are crossovers, eqs, etc necessary? or can i adjust it all from the head unit and amp?

thanks all, i think once i get money, i am going to replace front speakers, then back, then an amp, probably a 5 channel alpine or similar. if im not satisfied, i will change out the head unit. its a setup similar to yours, nuke, and you said you are happy with it, but im an obnoxious teenager who listens to punk rock, preferably loudly. it doesnt need to win contests, but will it provide enough volume for me?

 

[1sty]

ok, thanks everyone, i think i know what i want to do now, i just need to clear up a few discrepencies.
1. just to make sure, if i were to install it myself, would i need to replace anything such as wiring or harnesses? would i need to drill any holes?

2. is it necessary to get those line converter things if you use an amp with line level inputs?

3. nuke, where did you put the sub and which way did you point it? id like to keep trunk space if possible.

4. can i replace the speakers before getting an amp to drive them with?

5. are crossovers, eqs, etc necessary? or can i adjust it all from the head unit and amp?

thanks all, i think once i get money, i am going to replace front speakers, then back, then an amp, probably a 5 channel alpine or similar. if im not satisfied, i will change out the head unit. its a setup similar to yours, nuke, and you said you are happy with it, but im an obnoxious teenager who listens to punk rock, preferably loudly. it doesnt need to win contests, but will it provide enough volume for me?

1. you don't need to replace anything you just adding on. No hole need to be drilled. But I would shoot screws through the floo to fasten things.

2. line converters are only needed if you amp doesn't have speaker level inputs, check the manual or manufactures website.

3. most likely facing backwards since the shape of the box box doesn't give you an option.

4. Absolutly

5. The amp you buy should have a crossover built in if it doesn't its junk don't buy it. An EQ can be used but is not need and they are fairly empensive. The AUdio COntrol EQS, which I have will take speaker level ins and give you 3 EQ'd RCA outputs, very cool peice but it costs atleast $300.

As for the radio giving the needed volume. I put a system in a Volvo using the stock unit, car hits over 130 db with 2 JL Audio 12W3s powered by a JL 500/1 and his speakers are focal all around powered by a JL 300/4. Hows that for an upgrade.

 

[Sir Nuke]

ok, thanks everyone, i think i know what i want to do now, i just need to clear up a few discrepencies.

2. is it necessary to get those line converter things if you use an amp with line level inputs?

3. nuke, where did you put the sub and which way did you point it? id like to keep trunk space if possible.

4. can i replace the speakers before getting an amp to drive them with?

i will change out the head unit. its a setup similar to yours, nuke, and you said you are happy with it, but im an obnoxious teenager who listens to punk rock, preferably loudly. it doesnt need to win contests, but will it provide enough volume for me?

Dude.....

2. As 1st said....if your amp you get has speaker level inputs then NO...mine did...so no LOC's for me

3. remember I have a P-5...its in the back up against the back of the seats facing towards the rear.

4. most certainly....in fact that is exactly what I did.

and last but not least....what makes you think I don't like listening to LOUD music? lol just because I am a TAD older than most of you...don't mean squat! lol

I love it when the music is crystal clear...and the rear view and side view mirrors are shakin so much you can see what is in them!

 

[yay for cars]

ha ha, im sorry man, no offense intended. i didnt know how old you were, nor does it really matter, i just wanted to make sure. there is so much hype to read through in advertising that when i see an amp rated at giving only 30 watts per speaker, and then i see others that give 800 watts through 4 channels, i just want to make sure i know what is real and what is bull. thanks for the help, guys.

 

[1sty]

ha ha, im sorry man, no offense intended. i didnt know how old you were, nor does it really matter, i just wanted to make sure. there is so much hype to read through in advertising that when i see an amp rated at giving only 30 watts per speaker, and then i see others that give 800 watts through 4 channels, i just want to make sure i know what is real and what is bull. thanks for the help, guys.

This is my opinion one of the problems with the industry. There is no one set of standards or test that manufactures have to do to spec there products. A company can claim to have a 5000 watt amp even if it can only come close when its on fire and throwing out so much distortion and speaker would be long since dead.

I had a 4 channel Xtant X604, claimed 75x4, That amp costs $1K. yet it actualy put out 98 watts rms at any voltage above 12. Then you might see a Sony for $250 claim the same power. I think you could tell its bulls***. The sony would only crank that power out at 1 Khz, not all frequencies, only with over 14 volts of power and over 1% THD, very noticable distortion. The damping factor and on board capacitance would be a choke and the crossovers are garbage. BUt they can still claim it.