$400

Alright I have four hundred dollars to spend on my dad's MP3. He is in the hospital now and when he gets out, I want him to get in the car and notice a pretty significant difference. The only thing I have changed is the tires to AVS ES 100s. I want a little more gitty up and I want it to be a little more fun to drive. I was thinking somethign like a short throw shifter and an intake. I only have $400 dollars so I have a limited amount of money to work with. What kind of short shifter do you guys recommend? I have heard B&M and some kind of TRD or somethign are good. Also what kind of intake SRI/CAI do you recommend and what brand? I know on my WRX, CAI's make the car run lean, is that true with the MP3 too? Well thanks in advance.
 
IBAUCLAPlaya101 said:
Alright I have four hundred dollars to spend on my dad's MP3. He is in the hospital now and when he gets out, I want him to get in the car and notice a pretty significant difference. The only thing I have changed is the tires to AVS ES 100s. I want a little more gitty up and I want it to be a little more fun to drive. I was thinking somethign like a short throw shifter and an intake. I only have $400 dollars so I have a limited amount of money to work with. What kind of short shifter do you guys recommend? I have heard B&M and some kind of TRD or somethign are good. Also what kind of intake SRI/CAI do you recommend and what brand? I know on my WRX, CAI's make the car run lean, is that true with the MP3 too? Well thanks in advance.


no the mp3 will run rich. no matter what.

If you want a good price on a short shifter I suggest getting the kartboy short shifter with shift bushings. One of the bet mods on my car has to be the shift bushings. This all together costs less than a B&M shifter.
 
there are several mods you could do for 400 bucks, check out our webpage. Are you looking for preformance mainly?
 
SenorCorwin said:
there are several mods you could do for 400 bucks, check out our webpage. Are you looking for preformance mainly?

Yes mainly for performance. I have the Kartboy bushings on my WRX and I thought they made a world of a difference. I don't want the Kartboy short shifter because you need a new shift knob and I know my dad likes his shift knob. Any more recommendations? What performance mod(s) do you suggest SenorCorwin?
 
can you give me some feedback on the AVS ES 100 tires? I'm looking at getting some and am wondering if they're really the best for pretty much all dry and no cold driving

thanks
 
I have several packages i could set up for you.

Intakes: 235-Injen CAI, 70-Ractive SRI
Shifter: 95-B&M
Exhaust: 250-Vibrant Axle back, 400-Bosal Catback
Pulleys: 220-UR underdrive pulley

mix an match how you want, thats alot your basic start mods and let me know if you ready to buy and we can work on the price a little bit.
 
you said earlier that the kartboy shifter and shifter bushings were all under the cost of the b&m price...do you have a site, i need a new shifter?/ thanks
 
Auzzie_Mp3 said:
you said earlier that the kartboy shifter and shifter bushings were all under the cost of the b&m price...do you have a site, i need a new shifter?/ thanks
the lever/bushings costs $105 from kartboy's site www.kartboy.com
 
Header would give you the most noticable gains, most likely. =) I say go for that. 200-250ish for the OBX header would leave you with a chunk of change for a few more mods, too.
 
flat_black said:
Header would give you the most noticable gains, most likely. =) I say go for that. 200-250ish for the OBX header would leave you with a chunk of change for a few more mods, too.
Yeah, like the vibrant cat-back, and if the OBX is closer to 200 rather than 250, the SRI also, or alteast ditch the stock airbox for a K&N filter
 
I've read that the computer for the wrx has a huge range on fuel delviery so why would it run lean w/ the CAI. That doesn't seem right. where did you hear that?
 
njp5guy if you also look at MSP with cai dynos they run much leaner then without...guess not many people have noticed this and that is why it seems like the msp makes more power, because it changes the a/fs pretty significantly...
 
NJP5Guy said:
I've read that the computer for the wrx has a huge range on fuel delviery so why would it run lean w/ the CAI. That doesn't seem right. where did you hear that?

No on the WRX, if you put CAI on it, there is a bend in the piping right before the MAF. Also the piiping is often times larger than the stock. The MAF thinks it is still in its stock airbox, so it doesn't realize the extra air coming in from the bigger piping and the extra air that gets by in the bend. The AVS ES 100 are nice tires, but on the stock MP3, I spin them way too easily. I think thats just because its been cold around here lately. They were put on this summer so they aren't worn down. But I like them alot, and there its like night and day compared to my RE92s on the WRX. But I honestly couldn't notice a difference between the AVS ES 100s and the stock SP9000's. I know lean conditions make more power than rich, but I don't want to go too lean. I think all I am going to get is an intake and short shifter because he is planning to get an exhaust after this winter and I don't feel like doing the work nor have the time to install the headers.

But back to the MP3...

Does anybody have any personal feedback on the B&M shifter? It sounds like a good deal to me. How was the install? Shoudl I get the Kartboy bushings when I do the Short throw? Last thing about the shifter is, can I retain the stock knob and boot?

As for the intake...

Which produces more power? CAI or SRI?
Which is safer to run (SRI is 100x better than CAI on WRX because CAI runs real lean)?
Any brand recommendations, AEM or Injen?
Install wasn't that hard was it?

Thanks so much for all the rapid responses.

-Matt
 
i would think cold air is better cause you are bring colder air into the engine rather than the sri which sucks the hot air in the engine bay. brand is more of an opinion both aem and injen are great brands. and instalation isnt hard at all, if you have any trouble just ask.
 
definetely would recommend an OBX 4-1 header. we just finished a group buy on them and they remain our hardest to stock and fastest selling item.
 
Captain KRM P5 said:
definetely would recommend an OBX 4-1 header. we just finished a group buy on them and they remain our hardest to stock and fastest selling item.
got to agree with Ken on this one! buy the obx header best bang for your buck, easy to install and fun to drive on :)
 
also on a n/a application a CAI won't make it run more lean as on a FI car...so i wouldn't worry about that. I have a b&m shifter, love it, install took around 35 mins? don't really remember, only problem was getting the snap ring off, since i was using a flathead screwdriver to get it off haha. Could be done in less time if you actually buy the tool used to get that s*** off(snap ring plyers)
 
Captain KRM P5 said:
definetely would recommend an OBX 4-1 header. we just finished a group buy on them and they remain our hardest to stock and fastest selling item.
yea i wasnt sure to say that because of how quickly we could get it. Wasnt sure on how long he dad would be in the hospital.

def the big seller along with the b&m
 
mp5jeff said:
also on a n/a application a CAI won't make it run more lean as on a FI car...so i wouldn't worry about that. I have a b&m shifter, love it, install took around 35 mins? don't really remember, only problem was getting the snap ring off, since i was using a flathead screwdriver to get it off haha. Could be done in less time if you actually buy the tool used to get that s*** off(snap ring plyers)

hes right. snap ring was a b****. putting it back on was harder than getting it off. i was just lucky enough that an autoparts store was around the corner and they had the pliers. The B&M w/ the KB bushing is great.
 
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