3 questions for the experts.

[1sty]

1. How can you tell your running lean.

2. How can you tell your running rich

3. How can you tell you have knock if you can't hear it.

Basicly I am running 8 PSI at slightly above sea level with 93 octane 94 is available but expensive in my MP3. My fuel pump won't exceed 80 PSI but I can't sense any knock but then again the car is so loud especialy with my self made CAI with the kit that I can never tell at all.

I've never seen any smoke from the back but with a turbo kit at full acceleration I don't like taking my eyes off the road. The car does seem to jerlk a little when in vacuum while lifting off the gas but only a little more then stock.

 

[chdesign]

Questions one and two answer get a wideband O2 monitor. For the third one if you can't hear it the only other way I know of is to do datalogging and see when the car senses detonation. One way to get aroudn this is to drop that pressure yoru running. 8 PSI on an FMU is very VERY risky. the BEGI RRFPR is a FMU just so you know it rises the fuel pressure to give more fuel under boost. This is a patchwork way of getting more fuel for a turbo really. If you are runnign 8 psi and plan on staying there i would suggest dumping the FMU and getting the SDS additional injector controller. 8 psi on a FMU on the FS motor is pushing it hard man. You are runnign a high risk of either killing a fuel injector, topping out your fuel pump, or worse yet blowing your motor. I would keep it at 6-7 psi personally but hey its your car hope that helps you out.

 

[1sty]

If this is simply a patch then why has flyin miata run miata kits to 8 PSI with only the FPR of BEGIs with no problems other wise I know they would have changed it. Corky's original design of my kit was to 8 PSI and was only lowered by Wshade for handling purposes. Also they tested to 8 PSI accidently on 87 octane. I would like safety but it seems that alot of that may be over kill.
Thanks for your concern I am going top go to the dealership and get a read out to know if I have had knock occur.

What actualy happened to your car with the turbo? What caused it?

 

[Kooldino]

This is why I was all about the M2 performance Kit...it had bigger injectors and an upgraded CPU. What ever happened to them???

 

[smp3000]

I talked to Corky last week about the Feul issue. He said to get back to him in a month or so, as they were testing a BUNCH of different things. He siad they were working on some really neat ways to solve the feul issue-that might or might not include the pierburgh aux pump.

I'm excited to see what he comes up with!

 

[chdesign]

My turbo setup was sold to Ambient after I spun the bearings in teh turbo from a piece of catalyst breaking off and clogging my exhaust causing so much back pressure that the fins om my turbo didn't even spin hardly. As for it being a patch....if you are serious about FI then it is a patch. Turbo kits use them because they are cheap and don't require alot of tuning so it keeps costs down....anything over 7 psi on an FMU is a time bomb waiting to go off IMO. Look at your GOOD turbo kits on the market. F-Max all their kits some with a FCU and different injectors that I know of as well do most of the Greddy kits. teh BEGI kit is a good kit dont' get me wrong I would personally upgrade the fuel managment first thing though so you can run that 8 psi safely and not have to worry about it.

 

[1sty]

I'm excited to see what he comes up with!

It is kind of like the night before christmas isn't it?

Ch, is there anyway something like that could have been avoided.

 

[Kooldino]

2. How can you tell your running rich

Get an EGT installed.

 

[spoolinmp3]

Unfortunatly CH is correct. An FMU/FPR is a vitrually bandaide for fuel solutions. Its safe to say that an FMU provides enough fuel up to 8psi max. Howeveer an additional injector driver is a better fuel option but not the best. A full standalone system like a haltech or tec2/3 with injectors is really the safest otion for anything over 7psi of boost.

As for determining how rich you are running a wideband o2 is the optimum solution but expensive and complex. The bare minimum one should have is a good EGT gauge and air fuel meter. Now I am not talking about the worthless autometer a/f meters. A good unit is the halmeter from haltech ($150) this is a little more accurate then other units and gives a good average of your a/f ratio regarding all 4 cylinders. My opinion is to mount the EGT probe on the one of the runners before the turbo preferably on the cylinder tht recieves the least fuel. This gives you the exhaust temp of your leanest cylendar. This way you have a montoring aspect of whats going on. You get an average a/f ratio and the a/f ratio of your leanest cylinder.......the one that is most likley to go first. Call me paranoid but I have seen lots of turbo cars blow up. The more control ad monitoring capabilities the better

 

[chdesign]

For a good cost efficient injector controller go to www.sdsefi.com they have a good unit that works extremely well and has pretty good adjustment. Stou has this installed on his car. Turbo requires alot more monitoring than what people think when you boost a NA car to being with. If you have a car that was built for turbo it still needs to be watched close but not as much as a NA car gone turbo. I have seen 4 of my buddies here blow their cars up from Turbo....and despite what people think Turbo and Nitrous are jsut as bad as the other it just depends on how you use them. I have a friend runnign a 70 wet shot through his Integra LS and he has gone through 15 bottles with no compression loss and no problems except his clutch giving up on him and the honda motors are weaker than the mazda FS motor. Linux will debate this because he blew his motor with Nitrous but he also had his kit hooked up wrong and wasn't getting any extra fuel....in both the cases of turbo and Nitrous FUEL is you big thing as well as a little retard on teh timing when on the spray or boost. All in all makes sure your fuel is there in whichever route you choose.

 

[Stou]

There's a couple of way to see if you are runing lean or rich. An Air/Fuel meter is not a very precise device but it can give a good idea if you are runing lean or rich. An EGT gauge also can give you a good idea of how your car is runing.

Another simple way and very effective way to see if you are runing lean or rich, is to look at the spark plugs. People often forget about this and it's a very good indicator of how your car is runing.

Here's a link to a site where they explain how to read spark plugs color:

ALL ABOUT YOUR ENGINE SPARK PLUGS

SPARK PLUGS AND WHAT THEY SAY

 

[LinuxRacr]

The BEGI RRFPR accually goes off of vacum instead of boost, per Corky. It accually starts raising the fuel just before boost hits, instead of when it hits.

 

[spoolinmp3]

The BEGI RRFPR accually goes off of vacum instead of boost, per Corky. It accually starts raising the fuel just before boost hits, instead of when it hits.

This is true but this vacum line is the same on all fpr/fmu's and is actually pressurized when the manifold gets pressurized. Also the vast majority of FMU's start rising fuel before the onset of boost because the transition from vacum to boot is much smoother.

Stou, the spark plugs! Good point
Actually both stou and CH have made very valid points......glad to be reading this thread

 

[WShade]

Dont forget to take FMU bleed down into consideration. We added an aux pump to my car over the weekend just to see what is would do. Before the initial onset of boost the fuel pressure jumps up to 95 psi at about 2500 rpm. Stay in the gas and the pressue bleeds down to 85 psi at 5000 and stays constant.

 

[smp3000]

So has the pump helped you? Still at 6psi?

 

[mikesmazda155]

Ok now that you guys scared the turbo out of me, I guess it is good of time as any to let you guys know that I have joined the darkside..... Yes I am spooling, I am running a T-28 which is not leaking oil. Right now I am breaking the turbo in at 5 psi. I am running a Vortech FMU 10:1. I am running all autometer guages, now that I know they are crappy I feel real good about buying them. I have the monster tach, EGT (the thermocupel spelling? is in the O2 housing) also the air fuel, and boost guage. It pulls very nice at 5 psi. I am guessing that everyone else that is running 8 psi is really happy. I will run 8 psi when my e manage gets here. Ooh Spoolin any word on that (email me at mikesmazda155@aol.com)
Also I am running a manual boost controller which I will definatly be getting an electronic boost controller ( I like the AFC)

Also do you guys think that with the emanage Icould then turn the boost up to 8psi safely and maybe 10psi on race gas. Let me know what you guys think? I am really satisfied with the turbo.

(bluemp3) (lol)

 

[spoolinmp3]

Mike dont feel bad about the auto meter just the a/f meter one is a POS and a manual boost controller is fine, they actually work alot better than many electronic ones. As for the emanage, looks like it wont be ready for nopi. I should recieve it for sure this week though. Kinda makes me think that the guys at Greddy are running a clown operation or something
I will keep you updated, sorry for the delay

 

[spoolinmp3]

Hey mike another thing......post some pics of your setup! How does it feel what are you getting full boost at?
what is your boost onset with that turbo?

Inquiring forum members wanna know

 

[mikesmazda155]

It feels like I am getting into full boost at 2700 RPMs. We have to fix the manifold the flange is to small we think it is warping from the heat. So it is leaking, tonight we are going to use 3\8 flange and see how that works.

 

[mikesmazda155]

Ooh yeah and about the emanage I had a feeling that GREDDY was going to be slow about this. I was going to order it through a speed shop here but the guy said that GREDDY said that it would be a couple of weeks to get here. But then I decided to get it through you, so I was kind of ready for that. I think the car will be fine at 5 psi until the e manage gets here. What do you think Spoolin.

(shocked) This is my turbo face, when you feel the stupid power from the spooling of the turbo.(bluemp3)