3 dollar WGA insurance tip

While I didn't figure out what was wrong, I disconnected the line to the WGA and tried forcing air through it. It didn't budge. Good news.
I then smacked the crap outta my boost gauge. It moved a little bit. I shut the car off and tinkered with the BOV. Put it all back together and started her up. She always ran fine, just the gauge was reading that I was pushing 10 psi of boost and pulling only -7 vac pressure.
The gauge is reading fine now too. I bought a manual boost controller and am going to install that to hopefully save my WGA.
Thanks to everyone for their input!
Hotch
 
Well this piece of crap no longer works. I have no idea how long its not been working. Good thing I bought 2. 2nd one should hold me over until I can find a Lee's check valve.
This is the one I have now. Its bigger than Lee's check valve. Not sure how it till hold up so I will check it in a few weeks to see if it develops any leaks.

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FYI for all the people that are trying this a few years ago I was doing the same thing because I was at the side of the road with some buddies and needed to make a mbc on the fly.

if you want a relatively inexpensive boost modifying device, simply do the following:

1. go to the gas station and purchase 93+ gas. then while you are there pop the hood and take vacuum line going to wastegate and cut into 2 pieces in an area relatively close to the turbo but still easily accessible.
2. insert a 1 way valve so that the WG will only see boost pressure
3. take a sharp pair of scissors or a pin and make a very small insertion in the hose connected to the wastegate side of the one way valve. the hole does not need to be very big.
4. take car for a spin and go WOT in all gears. especially up hill if you can as this will put max load on the engine. While you are doing this you are of course making notes of boost behaviour in the different gear and conditions, and your passenger is monitoring you wideband 02 making sure you are not running lean at any time under WOT.
5. if you are happy with the boost increase then you are done. if desired boost pressure is not reached, pop the hood and make an additional small hole in the line. and then go back to step 4

its a pretty neat little trick for those without an mbc that any of you that are already buying this valve can do for free.
 
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or you you can just screw in a fitting on the stock intercooler as there is a bolt there for testing the IC pressure that is easily replaced with a barbed fitting..unless you are having insane spikes just use that.
 
There is a fitting on the stock SMIC that looks like a vacuum fitting. I have a vacuum block for my WGA but it could work for the stock setup.
 
yes, there appears to be a nipple on the bottom end tank... i didnt get a good look at it before i sold my core though
 
why are u guys doing check valves...why not just use one of these:
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...tp&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-010&Category_Code=BCS

and a fyi...if the wastegate sticks open, that means your not building boost, its sticking closed that u have to worry about
So I would connect the line from the wastegate to the quick tap, instead of the intake manifold or vacuum block, and that is better on the wastegate since it will only see boost and no vacuum? Would I then need to cap off the intake mani?

I'm getting ready to install a vacuum block and I was going to connect my forge wga to it, along with the boost gauge and bpv, till I read this. Just want to make sure I do it right the first time...
 
Hey, I accidentally bought one of these ATP [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica]FTG-QuickTaps. I realized after it shipped that I already essentially did the same thing by drilling, and tapping a barb fitting into my piping right below the compressor housing last year. I'll put up a for-sale thread when I get the chance, but if anyone needs one, hit me with a PM. [/FONT]
 
Welcome to 2010

So I seafoamed my car on Oct. 25th and my car began having issues. I noticed soon after clearing out the smoke that I was boosting 0 psi and had no blow off. Drove it to work, and when I got off, I drove it some more. Over these 10 days I noticed that when I first drove the car it would boost normal, then get weaker and weaker as it warmed up to operating temp. Warmed up boost would be around 3psi, and it would take forever to get to that psi....very sluggish. I was told it could be the plugs affecting boost, so I changed them out yesterday. I also decided to remove the check valve from the wga just in case it was part of the problem. When i did, this is what I found:
CAM00147_zpscd57d9d5.jpg


I guess in the process of seafoaming, some managed to get down into the wga line(running a vacuum block), and I guess the check valve prevented it from being sucked back into the engine. Now i don't know if this was the cause of my problem, because I removed the check valve the same time I changed my plugs, but my boost is back to normal now and I can hear my turbo loud and clear.
 
..... Oh. Been running my atp the wrong way since 2009....oopsies.
 
Where should you hook the WGA to , if not where it came stock that would be better?
 
if it was filled with fluid, then yeah it was probably your issue. im guessing the WG side pressurized and couldnt back the pressure out because of the fluid build up. would explain why it got worse over time.
 
I hate seafoam, and I don't understand why people are so convinced it does anything. It's snake oil in my eyes.
 

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