3 dollar WGA insurance tip

So if I install a check valve it may help extend the life of my current (stock) WGA and any WGA I decide to replace it with in the future?

The link you posted on the check valve has some bad reviews, a couple people said the valve didn't work on their aquariums at all.
 
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Imagine you have a pringles can and you take the top off. Thats where it came apart at. I bought a different brand from walmart. I'll try it out soon.
 
This is the one I have now. Its bigger than Lee's check valve. Not sure how it till hold up so I will check it in a few weeks to see if it develops any leaks.

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i had a valve similar to that one for vac bagging and i wasnt crazy about it. the mechanism in the lee's one is really good for what we need it for - theres not a lot to get wear/fatigue, it has more flow than any similar valve ive used, and it seals really well.
still, i dont envision a scenario where this would be detrimental to the car, but keep an eye on your boost gauge in case it adds a little spike.
 
i had a valve similar to that one for vac bagging and i wasnt crazy about it. the mechanism in the lee's one is really good for what we need it for - theres not a lot to get wear/fatigue, it has more flow than any similar valve ive used, and it seals really well.
still, i dont envision a scenario where this would be detrimental to the car, but keep an eye on your boost gauge in case it adds a little spike.

I've been spiking 10psi ever since I got this ATP wga.
 
Spiking around 8 now. Not always though. Somevines she's boosting 7 or 6.5. During a test run this morning i had no spike at all. 5psi was the magic number and it left much to be desired. I never want to boost at 5psi ever again!
 
No bueno guys, there is a problem with this theory. If you install a one-way check valve in thw WGA vac/boost line, once boost is applied to the WGA it will never bleed off. So yeah, your turbo will overspool, but never create good boost. If you add a bleed hole, then get used to boost spikes. A lot of MBC's work so that the bleed hole is only open when the MBC valve is closed. When the valve is open, the bleed hole is closed off so that there is not a boost leak. When the valve is closed the bleed, hole is open allowing boost applied to the WGA to bleed off and vacuum is being blocked off by the MBC valve. This way there is never an effective boost or vacuum leak. A simple check valve will not work like this. Don't mess your cars up guys...
 
ive NEVER heard of a MBC working like that. maybe the top of the line hallman ones do, but i know definitively the joeP does not, the bleeder screw ones do not, and i can go down the line of others. im guess gonna have to ask for a reference on this one.

and if you apply boost to the WGA and have it stuck open, how will you overspool the turbo?
 
ive NEVER heard of a MBC working like that. maybe the top of the line hallman ones do, but i know definitively the joeP does not, the bleeder screw ones do not, and i can go down the line of others. im guess gonna have to ask for a reference on this one.

and if you apply boost to the WGA and have it stuck open, how will you overspool the turbo?

I got a replacement shortblock for sale when your ready.
 
I got a replacement shortblock for sale when your ready.

Dramatics, oh sweet sweet dramatics.

Bryan has a very decent set-up in his 1st post. The other option, and what I would do, is: Use that coupler from ATP that integrates a boost only barb fitting, or similar product. The simpler, the better, IMO. The important bit here is, your wastegate actuator has ZERO reason to see vacuum, ever... I think that we as MSP owners (ex) see enough WGA failures for so little cars produced, that we should take note of the fact that Mazda "jerry-rigged" another part of this car, and it can / should be fixed w/ ease. Bottom line, WGA has no reason to see vac, and when you subject that diaphragm to almost constant vacuum in addition to it's actual function (boost actuation), you double the duty of that rubber diaphragm, cutting it's life in half, arguably.


EDIT: Read this: http://www.boostcontroller.com/display_page.php?i=23
 
Disclaimer (Ha!): While this may be my first post on the MSP board, I am not that new to MSP's and I'm certainly not new to turbocharged cars.

It is true that waste gate actuators do not like negative pressure. It is true that a one way valve is the functional part to alleviate this. In fact, some manufacturers put them inline with the WGA signal line. Also, look at any ball and spring type manual boost controller. They accomplish this function in exactly the same way; its sort of a side affect to their initial purpose.

Some of you are worried about over working a turbo charger because 'the WG would be stuck open since its actuator never experienced vacuum after boost'. This is not the case. The very nature of a one way valve is to have a pretty weak little spring. As you come out of boost by reducing throttle slowly, abruptly, whatever, that check valve isn't going to be allowed to seal off vacuum pressure until almost all positive pressure is gone. There is plenty of time and ability for the WGA to pull shut. And then, oooo nice, its not being pulled into oblivion every time you're in vacuum.

As far as the one dude up there saying something about a short block being available for anyone who needs it, well that's just a little overstated. As long as you install the check valve in the right direction and monitor its condition periodically for leaks, no harm will befall your engine from this simple modification. In fact, you will be doing you WGA a favor. Another thing to do, for perhaps more peace of mind, would be to get an automotive grade check valve as it would be more suitable for the heat. But I like this little guy form Lee's.
 
Someone please tell me that I am experiencing something that you all are talking about in this thread.
I have not been able to get the stock 6psi boost from my MSP for quite some time. I've only been able to get around 5.2(?) at most unless it was really chilly out and then it would spike to about 5.5psi.
On my way home from class today I pushed her a little hard and I saw 6psi. I was stoked! Until I saw it keep climbing to 7, 8, 9, and then even 10psi. It was then that I backed off and pulled in the driveway.
Well I figured it was just because of the cooler weather and got back out on the road this evening. I'm sitting at -7 vac and am spooling up to 10psi at 2500-3000rpm. I immediately turned back around and took it easy to the house.
My questions are:
1. Could the WGA be stuck open/closed? can't remember what is what.
2. Could it be a simple vac leak?(not thinking that's it because I'm getting all this boost)
3. Please help?!?!?!?

My setup is ThunderV2 header, stock turbo, stock WGA, Stock BPV recirc'd, Greddy Type S BOV VTA, and hardpipe kit with relocated MAF.
 
Someone please tell me that I am experiencing something that you all are talking about in this thread.
I have not been able to get the stock 6psi boost from my MSP for quite some time. I've only been able to get around 5.2(?) at most unless it was really chilly out and then it would spike to about 5.5psi.
On my way home from class today I pushed her a little hard and I saw 6psi. I was stoked! Until I saw it keep climbing to 7, 8, 9, and then even 10psi. It was then that I backed off and pulled in the driveway.
Well I figured it was just because of the cooler weather and got back out on the road this evening. I'm sitting at -7 vac and am spooling up to 10psi at 2500-3000rpm. I immediately turned back around and took it easy to the house.
My questions are:
1. Could the WGA be stuck open/closed? can't remember what is what.
2. Could it be a simple vac leak?(not thinking that's it because I'm getting all this boost)
3. Please help?!?!?!?

My setup is ThunderV2 header, stock turbo, stock WGA, Stock BPV recirc'd, Greddy Type S BOV VTA, and hardpipe kit with relocated MAF.
 
you could have a broken wastegate line, or a broken wastegate diaphragm. its almost certainly one of the two. remove the line that doesnt connect to the WGA and blow through it into the wastegate.
if you feel air going through, then its DEFINITELY one of the two... remove the line going to the WGA and inspect. if its in one piece, you have a torn diaphragm. if the line is broken, then its the line.

and when you fix it, be sure to check-valve it!
[edit: and i had a cracked wastegate line once. its mad scary, just keep it out of boost and youll be fine.]
 
I will definitely check all this out. Thank you so much!! And it is so hard to keep it out of boost because even when I take off from a stop at about 1200-1300rpm it's wanting to push about 5psi already. I should be able to either fix the line or pick up a new WGA tomorrow, hopefully.
 
huh - thats weird. it shouldnt change your boost response.... at least when i had a cracked WGA line it didnt... i dont know if a torn diaphragm is a different story.
 
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