2021 CX-5 Turbo Front Caliper Mount Stripped

[RedBaron]

To me they look like stripped threads.

I was thinking the same thing!

 

[AC3]

I'm 80% sure those are not helicoils.
To me they look like stripped threads.
I've seen similar coils when doing torque-to-failures tests for mounting brackets.

I'd say the previous person over torqued and/or cross threaded them.

You are likely 100% correct. Brought the bracket and bolts to my local mechanic to have a look, he said the coils are actually the bracket threads that sheared right off in the form of a continuous coil. Never saw this before, looked like a coil spring / helicoil to me at first. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

 

[AC3]

It definitely seems like whoever did the previous brake work messed up. My first guess is that it was a teaching moment for a new tech, who mistakenly removed the caliper bracket bolts instead of the caliper slide pin bolts and then screwed up reinstalling them, leading to the rounded threads on the bracket. Then, they decided to use helicoils to hide their mistake and hope you or anyone else at the dealership never found out.

At this point, if you have the time, it might be a good idea to find out what a local junkyard would charge for the caliper brackets if you were to pull them from a junked turbo CX-5 yourself. Or, instead of ordering from a local dealer, consider ordering from an online OEM Mazda parts store, like the mazdaswag.com link that @Silly Wabbit posted above. It's $100 CDN for a new OEM part, but not sure what the shipping time or cost might be. Partsouq.com would be another option, but they do not have stock for that part.

Palladino Mazda is Canadian, they have the part listed for $160 CDN but that doesn't include shipping.

Thanks for the info. Ended up getting the caliper kit from Napa (dealership and Napa only sell the full kit, not solo bracket) for $125 CDN plus $50 core deposit. Didn't replace caliper as it was perfectly fine, so now I have a spare

 

[AC3]

I'll throw my .02 cents in .... If there were only two dealers that ever worked on the brakes, it's the second that messed it up. If it was the first, the second mechanic would have pointed the problem out to you so they don't get blamed for it.

To clarify my earlier post: the second dealer at my 48k scheduled maintenance did not do the brake service, likely only a visual inspection to say it was time to replace pads/rotors, so no point in doing / charging me for the brake service if they soon needed to be replaced.
The first dealer at my 24k scheduled which included brake maintenance likely disassembled brakes for cleaning & lube.

Anyways, all ended well, got the new fronts brakes on yesterday; I'll do the rears early next week. I've learned my lesson that Friday isn't a good time to start a job in case some other part surprise pops up.

 

[AL Cx5]

OUCH, sorry to read about your misfortune. The tech more than likely used an impact tool and rattled out the threads. I've done back in the day. Today, I loosen with a breaker bar and finish with a light impact. Revers the procedure when installing. Then torque to spec.

I bought those old fashion Speed Wrenches when working on aluminum like valve covers or spark plugs. I watched guys work on expensive race engines in the pits. They didn't have an impact near those engines. Speed wrench handles and other hand tools was the only thing they used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

I have stripped a few threads in my day. Helicoil is only used in light duty applications.

I use thread inserts like the one in the link or other brands depending on how much load and how critical. Brake calipers are critical. I'd only use a quality thread insert.

I own several installation kits with the proper size drill bit and installation tool. It's very important to drill and tape the hole correctly. You only get one chance. I add Locktite if the insert does not have it on the threads. I've used ezlok that doesn't require a special installation tool but still require the hole be enlarged to the correct size, tapped and then installed.

It may not be worth the effort if you don't own the correct size drill bit and tap. In you case you can purchase a new part and start over again.

I could fill up several pages of things I have fixed over the years that techs messed up and I didn't find it for 6 to 12 months.

Your misfortune confirmed that I'm not letting the Stealership touch my car unless it's a warranty issue I don't want to fix. I swapped out squeaking front brake pads and rotors because they were squeaking the first 1000 mi. I got better pads and rotors and avoid a tech messing up the car. To bad this is the world we live in.

Good luck!

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