2016 CX-9 2.5T Cylinder Head Replacement
- Thread starter luklyz
- Start date
Send an oil sample to a testing lab. If there are excessive wear particles (metal) or coolant in the oil you may need a new engine. Here is one lab, the test costs $35:
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/engine-types/gasoline/
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/engine-types/gasoline/
Yea, first thing I would do is decide if it needs a long block due to coolant in the oil. If its only a head replacement I hear its still easier to do it by dropping the engine out on the subframe first. Dont know why thats just what I have read. Book time on a head is 17hr and an engine change is 11 hrs. Strange
Just a quick update.
I made a decision to replace the whole engine. I found a brand new Mazda engine for $2650 from a dealer in Florida. Shipping was $500. There are several Mazda dealers that offer engines at this price, but no one was willing to ship them because they are too big. Local Mazda dealers were asking $6k to $6.5k for a brand-new engine.
The old engine is out, and I was able to remove the engine from the top ( hood opening). Tranny is still in the car, including the differential and the shaft. Cat needed to be removed as well.
Engine removal was a relatively easy job.
It took around 9h to pull the engine from the top. Sometime next week, I will be dropping a new engine in, depending on time.
Let me know if you have any questions. I can drop some pictures if anyone is interested.
I made a decision to replace the whole engine. I found a brand new Mazda engine for $2650 from a dealer in Florida. Shipping was $500. There are several Mazda dealers that offer engines at this price, but no one was willing to ship them because they are too big. Local Mazda dealers were asking $6k to $6.5k for a brand-new engine.
The old engine is out, and I was able to remove the engine from the top ( hood opening). Tranny is still in the car, including the differential and the shaft. Cat needed to be removed as well.
Engine removal was a relatively easy job.
It took around 9h to pull the engine from the top. Sometime next week, I will be dropping a new engine in, depending on time.
Let me know if you have any questions. I can drop some pictures if anyone is interested.
The drill is to drop the engine to replace the head. That is the standard practice, based on my experience with having the head replaced.
Another update.
Here are some pictures.
The old head split in half. You cant even call this a crack.
I added a picture of new engine head. I don't see any structural changes from the outside when compared to the old head.
Last picture is an empty engine bay. No need to pull the trans.
The engine installion is moving forword well.
Here are some pictures.
The old head split in half. You cant even call this a crack.
I added a picture of new engine head. I don't see any structural changes from the outside when compared to the old head.
Last picture is an empty engine bay. No need to pull the trans.
The engine installion is moving forword well.
Attachments
Last edited:
Update:
The car engine is installed, and the car is running well. Here is the cost breakdown of the whole project. I was considering an engine rebuild (head replacement at $750), but it would have taken one to two months more due to my work schedule. I plan on rebuilding the old engine at a later date.
Anyway,
For this project, I did some research and found a Mazda service manual on an Australian website. It is for CX-5, but there is a 2.5 turbo engine. Here is a link for everyone to enjoy!
M A Z D A
In the near future, I will work on rebuilding the engine and will post some pictures. The head from the Cincinnati dealer will cost under $750 with the gasket and bolts shipped!!!. It is definitely worth saving this engine if the internals are good.
Let me know if you have any questions about the project.
It is a shame that Mazda will not take responsibility for the factory defect. Most likely, this is an issue with the heat distribution (how the head is cooling) or improper aluminum casting aging. This is why they redesigned the gaskets and there is no structural changes to the new heads.
The good news for me is that I will be rebuilding lots of CX-9s in the near future for good money, just like I repaired several (over 20) CX-7s with 2.3t engines back in the day.
The car engine is installed, and the car is running well. Here is the cost breakdown of the whole project. I was considering an engine rebuild (head replacement at $750), but it would have taken one to two months more due to my work schedule. I plan on rebuilding the old engine at a later date.
Anyway,
- The engine was $2,650 from Cox Mazda in Florida. They were the only place willing to ship an engine at the list price. Shipping was $500 to Wisconsin, where I'm located.
- Seals and gaskets were $500 from Jake Sweny Tri County Mazda dealer in Cincinnati, OH. I did extensive research on parts pricing, and this dealer was/is the cheapest online. Plus, they have a flat fee for shipping. The seals and gaskets were for the turbo and exhaust valve, intake, injectors, oil cooler, and oil filter. I reused some old seals as they were in good shape.
- RockAuto - $50 for air filter, cabin filter, and wipers.
- Walmart - $50 for oil, brake, and carb cleaners to clean coolant and oil leaks all over the firewall.
For this project, I did some research and found a Mazda service manual on an Australian website. It is for CX-5, but there is a 2.5 turbo engine. Here is a link for everyone to enjoy!
M A Z D A
In the near future, I will work on rebuilding the engine and will post some pictures. The head from the Cincinnati dealer will cost under $750 with the gasket and bolts shipped!!!. It is definitely worth saving this engine if the internals are good.
Let me know if you have any questions about the project.
It is a shame that Mazda will not take responsibility for the factory defect. Most likely, this is an issue with the heat distribution (how the head is cooling) or improper aluminum casting aging. This is why they redesigned the gaskets and there is no structural changes to the new heads.
The good news for me is that I will be rebuilding lots of CX-9s in the near future for good money, just like I repaired several (over 20) CX-7s with 2.3t engines back in the day.
Last edited:
Awesome info. Thanks so much! What state are you in if you don’t mind? I’m down in SWFL.
I wouldn't port these heads. Removing any metal from the heads given their demonstrated propensity to crack seems like an astonishingly bad idea.
Porting and cam replacement don't make any sense because this is a turbo engine, and cams are already controlled by a computer. A good tuner should be able to remap the ECU and get you what you want.
N7turbo
2023 CX-5 2.5T ... 2024 MX-5 RF GT
Logical. So, where I was going with that was, if you had to fork out $$ for a new cylinder head, I would look at aftermarket options. You would get something better than stock for the same money, or a little bit more. I would actually feel pretty bad if I paid a dealership for a replacement head then found out I could have gotten better from the aftermarket. That's how it works with small block Chevy/Ford. I haven't come across any Mazda performance shops yet.
N7turbo
2023 CX-5 2.5T ... 2024 MX-5 RF GT
Upgraded heads and cams always make more power, even with turbos. All the turbo does is multiply the power your engine makes.
Hey lucklyz!
I sent a message to you about replacing my buddys cracked cylinder head. Was wondering if I could get a few questions answer about the job.
Excellent work btw!
We need more memebers out there like this!
I sent a message to you about replacing my buddys cracked cylinder head. Was wondering if I could get a few questions answer about the job.
Excellent work btw!
We need more memebers out there like this!
Mazda needs to step up and replace all these cylinder heads., Honda , Toyota, Nissan would have called an official recall already... my local Mazda dealership only offered a new engine replacement
for $12k for my 2019 CX-9 (even though Mazda's internal TSB tells them to replace the head) CLASS ACTION LAW SUITE TIME!!!
I did call Mazda's main customer service and I'm awaiting a case manager who's working on a solution with my local dealership! Hopefully assisting or paying $$$$
CALL MAZDA 800*222*5500
for $12k for my 2019 CX-9 (even though Mazda's internal TSB tells them to replace the head) CLASS ACTION LAW SUITE TIME!!!
I did call Mazda's main customer service and I'm awaiting a case manager who's working on a solution with my local dealership! Hopefully assisting or paying $$$$
CALL MAZDA 800*222*5500
Mazda will not do a recall.
Well, i dont know your situation and where you are located but there are some other options. My local dealer in wisconsin was asking $6500 for a new long block so prices very depending on dealer.
Well, i dont know your situation and where you are located but there are some other options. My local dealer in wisconsin was asking $6500 for a new long block so prices very depending on dealer.
Hello gents,
I just finished replacing the cylinder head myself in my 2017 CX-9 Signature (Even though I was past the recently announced extended warranty, Mazda agreed to cover the cost of the parts for me)
Anyways, after assembling everything I went to cycle the ignition on a couple times and then cranked the engine and it started right up, no DTC codes or anything. In fact, it was idling super smooth, like no major work had been performed.
I then went out for a drive and that's when things went down hill for me. As soon as I left my driveway it lost power, idles rough when parked and triggered codes (as interpreted by my cheap scanner):
P0340 - Camshaft position (CMP) sensor A, bank 1 - circuit malfunction
P0365 - Camshaft position (CMP) sensor B, bank 1 - circuit malfunction
P0017 - Crankshaft position/camshaft position, bank 1 sensor B correlation
P061D - Engine control module (ECM), engine air mass - performance problem
My car doesn't have an exhaust CMP which makes me wonder why I get a P0365. According to the wiring diagram the exhaust CMP was added many thousands of SNs after my car. Anyways, I pulled the intake CMP to inspect for debris and it was fine, I even hooked it up to an oscilloscope and the signal matches the reference wave pattern shown on the troubleshooting guide from Mazda.
I triple checked the timing chain before closing things up and everything was perfectly aligned as per my pre-disassembly pictures. I extremely doubt there is a problem with alignment or slack in the chain. I'm also trying to exhaust my alternative troubleshooting steps before pulling things apart again.
My next steps are pulling the crankshaft position sensor to inspect for debris and then I plan to hook it up to the oscilloscope to look at its wave pattern too. I'm not sure why it shows up as P0017 in my scanner. According to the Mazda manual it should be P0335.
I'm also not sure what to think of P061D. It doesn't point to a faulty sensor I believe it might be a result/consequence of the CMP/CKP sensor issues I'm getting, I check the MAF sensor and looks fine...
it's weird that if I clear the codes after they happen when the car is warmed up, it will idle slightly rough. If wait overnight and run it cold after clearing the codes it idles fine. Any thoughts on what might be going on?
I just finished replacing the cylinder head myself in my 2017 CX-9 Signature (Even though I was past the recently announced extended warranty, Mazda agreed to cover the cost of the parts for me)
Anyways, after assembling everything I went to cycle the ignition on a couple times and then cranked the engine and it started right up, no DTC codes or anything. In fact, it was idling super smooth, like no major work had been performed.
I then went out for a drive and that's when things went down hill for me. As soon as I left my driveway it lost power, idles rough when parked and triggered codes (as interpreted by my cheap scanner):
P0340 - Camshaft position (CMP) sensor A, bank 1 - circuit malfunction
P0365 - Camshaft position (CMP) sensor B, bank 1 - circuit malfunction
P0017 - Crankshaft position/camshaft position, bank 1 sensor B correlation
P061D - Engine control module (ECM), engine air mass - performance problem
My car doesn't have an exhaust CMP which makes me wonder why I get a P0365. According to the wiring diagram the exhaust CMP was added many thousands of SNs after my car. Anyways, I pulled the intake CMP to inspect for debris and it was fine, I even hooked it up to an oscilloscope and the signal matches the reference wave pattern shown on the troubleshooting guide from Mazda.
I triple checked the timing chain before closing things up and everything was perfectly aligned as per my pre-disassembly pictures. I extremely doubt there is a problem with alignment or slack in the chain. I'm also trying to exhaust my alternative troubleshooting steps before pulling things apart again.
My next steps are pulling the crankshaft position sensor to inspect for debris and then I plan to hook it up to the oscilloscope to look at its wave pattern too. I'm not sure why it shows up as P0017 in my scanner. According to the Mazda manual it should be P0335.
I'm also not sure what to think of P061D. It doesn't point to a faulty sensor I believe it might be a result/consequence of the CMP/CKP sensor issues I'm getting, I check the MAF sensor and looks fine...
it's weird that if I clear the codes after they happen when the car is warmed up, it will idle slightly rough. If wait overnight and run it cold after clearing the codes it idles fine. Any thoughts on what might be going on?
New Posts
- Question
