2016 CX-5 Sport Transmission fluid change interval?

[txt990]

My 2016 Cx-5 Sport 2.5L automatic has about 67K on it. When do I need to change the Automatic Transmission fluid? Is it a drain and fill or flush for this model? Also, do I stick with the Mazda transmission fluid?

 

[wlong01]

Do it now. I usually do around 40,000. It's a drain and fill. You need to do it three times.
Drain once, fill, drive for a few days, do again, drive for a few days and repeat or you can do what most people do and drain/fill and wait till the next oil change to repeat.

Yes - always use OEM.

 

[txt990]

Do it now. I usually do around 40,000. It's a drain and fill. You need to do it three times.
Drain once, fill, drive for a few days, do again, drive for a few days and repeat or you can do what most people do and drain/fill and wait till the next oil change to repeat.

Yes - always use OEM.

What is the recommended interval by Mazda? I'll have to take it to the dealer to get the transmission serviced.

 

[wlong01]

What is the recommended interval by Mazda? I'll have to take it to the dealer to get the transmission serviced.

There is no recommended interval. Mazda says it's lifetime. I had a small argument with my dealer when I first bought my 2016 CX-5. They said they couldn't change the tranny fluid. I asked them then why is there a drain plug.
I'm assuming Mazda's definition of lifetime is 5yrs/60,000 miles. Their powertrain warranty.

Search this forum, you'll get multiple answers on when to change the fluid. In my opinion you're past due.

 

[txt990]

There is no recommended interval. Mazda says it's lifetime. I had a small argument with my dealer when I first bought my 2016 CX-5. They said they couldn't change the tranny fluid. I asked them then why is there a drain plug.
I'm assuming Mazda's definition of lifetime is 5yrs/60,000 miles. Their powertrain warranty.

Search this forum, you'll get multiple answers on when to change the fluid. In my opinion you're past due.

This sounds like Toyota which also claims lifetime fluid for their transmissions. However, on my 2010 Corolla the dealer recommended a flush around 60k, which I got done.

 

[HyFlyer]

Also, if you search around the forums, I think you'll be hard pressed to find any widespread transmission issues. Sure, there are a few outliers but I think these are solid transmissions. Mazda's only reference to changing trans fluid is if you tow with (or other severe duty) it IIRC.

I see that you'd have the dealer take care of it for you so they will use Mazda fluid of course. (as should you if done DIY)

I think for me, I would pull a sample of the trans fluid and send it to a lab such as Blackstone to make an educated decision on wether to change it or not. Maybe I'll do that just for funzies on my 2016.5 with 140k miles on it.

 

[wlong01]

Also, if you search around the forums, I think you'll be hard pressed to find any widespread transmission issues. Sure, there are a few outliers but I think these are solid transmissions. Mazda's only reference to changing trans fluid is if you tow with (or other severe duty) it IIRC.

I see that you'd have the dealer take care of it for you so they will use Mazda fluid of course. (as should you if done DIY)

I think for me, I would pull a sample of the trans fluid and send it to a lab such as Blackstone to make an educated decision on wether to change it or not. Maybe I'll do that just for funzies on my 2016.5 with 140k miles on it.

I'm assuming your 140k is without ever changing the fluid.

 

[HyFlyer]

I'm assuming your 140k is without ever changing the fluid.

That is correct.

 

[ColtX-5]

My 2016 Cx-5 Sport 2.5L automatic has about 67K on it. When do I need to change the Automatic Transmission fluid? Is it a drain and fill or flush for this model? Also, do I stick with the Mazda transmission fluid?

Read the manual and follow it. The tranny only needs a drain and refill every so often, it you tow or meet other conditions.

The trans fluid is an unusual synthetic called FZ. I do not (and would not) use anything else. If you choose to change it, check Amazon for a good price, but expect $20/qt.

 

[ruthrj]

Read the manual and follow it. The tranny only needs a drain and refill every so often, it you tow or meet other conditions.

The trans fluid is an unusual synthetic called FZ. I do not (and would not) use anything else. If you choose to change it, check Amazon for a good price, but expect $20/qt.

I'm ok with Aisin's ATF-MFZ. RockAuto sells it for about $9 a quart and their shipping is very reasonable. I agree though, I wouldn't go with something like Valvoline Multi-Vehicle ATF

 

[theblooms]

You can also drop the pan to clean the magnet and change the filter. If you go with a Wix filter, it comes with a silicone gasket, so no more messing with RTV.

 

[madar]

I'm pro changing the fluid on occasion, haven't done it yet on mine with 66k miles, but as was mentioned before- you'd be very hard pressed to find fluid caused failures on this transmission. Stick with the Mazda fluid, they did this right.

 

[Tribe&TrueRacin]

This is not for a debate or argument I offer this as helpful information to at least think about.

There is nothing inside the MAZDA transmission that requires to only use MAZDA ATF. Nothing!
A few of us have already completely dissembled the transmission to look into engineering and improve some parts for performance application and some of these parts may become available this year?
I will say this is not the only platform form vehicle specific topic about the automatic transmission and the so called life time no service from the auto manufactures. BMW and MINI to name 2 I am experienced with has them as well.

If you tow or use a MAZDA in what would be called heavy duty applications like towing or loaded capacity, then its only prudent that you do at least a filter and pan fluid change at 30k intervals or sooner.

The Mazda transmission NEW has a break in period exactly like the engine. During that break in like an engine things like break-in wear protectants, assembly lubes and grease and hard material like copper, aluminum., will end up in the filter and bottom of the pan and some caught on the pan magnet. While MAZDA shows lifetime no service guide IMHO it is based on giving a implied assurance that the transmission is solid and will last. Sure at least for the warranty period of the drive train.
There is also a varnish that slowly starts to form when the transmission fluid is not serviced at a more reasonable mileage. This varnish WILL effect the valve body and servos operation that can lead to transmission troubles and even possible failures.

Not hard pressed to find out for yourself..
There are auto dismantlers all over the US and Canada that have dozens of failed newer MAZDA transmission with between 80 and 150k miles. It is these failures one reason why there are lower number readily available and warrantied used transmission from vendors that offer low mileage transmissions.

 

[edmaz]

Also, if you search around the forums, I think you'll be hard pressed to find any widespread transmission issues. Sure, there are a few outliers but I think these are solid transmissions. Mazda's only reference to changing trans fluid is if you tow with (or other severe duty) it IIRC.

I see that you'd have the dealer take care of it for you so they will use Mazda fluid of course. (as should you if done DIY)

I think for me, I would pull a sample of the trans fluid and send it to a lab such as Blackstone to make an educated decision on wether to change it or not. Maybe I'll do that just for funzies on my 2016.5 with 140k miles on it.

I'll join you and the very few other people who are in the small minority on this, particularly the part about a lab sample. I believe that without lab analysis of the fluid, there's no basis for early/frequent ATF changes. And for me, it's always going to be "just the facts, ma'am", regardless of how many people on the Internet claim otherwise.

So at around 60K miles or so, I'll send a sample to one of the labs and use the results of that test to determine what (if anything) to do at that point and how to proceed going forward. That's my opinion, and I have no interest in arguing with anyone who would want to tell me how wrong I am about this, and how the transmission will already have become damaged beyond recovery at 60K.

 

[Tribe&TrueRacin]

I believe that without lab analysis of the fluid, there's no basis for early/frequent ATF changes. And for me, it's always going to be "just the facts, ma'am", regardless of how many people on the Internet claim otherwise.

So at around 60K miles or so, I'll send a sample to one of the labs and use the results of that test to determine what (if anything) to do at that point and how to proceed going forward. That's my opinion, and I have no interest in arguing with anyone who would want to tell me how wrong I am about this, and how the transmission will already have become damaged beyond recovery at 60K.

No one said that and I quote you... "the transmission will already have become damaged beyond recovery at 60K".

Would you like to see an oil analysis and read all the good stuff in a MAZDA transmission?
Below is one I suggest look at the values.
Here is one of my analyses from Black Stone Oil labs.
I look forward to seeing yours!
I would recommend that you not wait and simply draw a sample from the dipstick area and send it to be analyzed. Please... oh and post your results. I like forum members that like to question information from any member on validity, experience and facts!

When you do get around to the MAZDA transmission service, please post the pictures of your pan and also the magnet. And how fun it was to clean both of them.

**I also recently posted what the varnish looks like on a valve body and that was on a transmission with less than 30k miles.

MY personal Mazda:
I run an addition auxiliary transmission cooler as well an inline oil filter have already done a complete fluid replacement and 3 basic pan filter servicing. I like to think that may be to some over kill. But in monitoring the effects of performance on a dyno regarding the transmission temperature's which are directly following the engine where MAZDA installed the sensors and what the real temperature's are it made me go WTF. So now I monitor 2 independent area's of the transmission temperature and watch that under no driving circumstance the transmission fluid gets over 185F returning from the sump back into the transmission.
I also went into the ECU and shut off the radiator fan control completely and installed my own auto fan and manual override control. Also I have removed the factory thermostat and install a cooler 170F thermostat, lowered the percentage of coolant to water, and have ducked ram air to enter the engine compartment at speeds above 40mph.





** see thread post # 19

I'm going to shorten my ATF change interval

2012 Mazda5. Did my 120,000 mile service today which consists of a through suspension, brake, and undercarriage inspection, rotating the tires, oil change, and ATF oil and filter change. Upon removing the old ATF, it looked a lot darker than I would like. My normal ATF schedule is drain and...

mazdas247.com

 

[madar]

ATF oil analyses thread. Some useful info.

https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/skyactiv-transmission-fluid-analysis-thread.123866180/

 

[Tribe&TrueRacin]

ATF oil analyses thread. Some useful info.

https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/skyactiv-transmission-fluid-analysis-thread.123866180/

Did you take any pictures of your pan and the magnet when you did your filter/fluid service. That would be a good post if you did!

 

[madar]

Did you take any pictures of your pan and the magnet when you did your filter/fluid service. That would be a good post if you did!

No, I said I haven't done it yet for this vehicle. But I suspect it'd have some sediment in it just like any other automatic.

 

[theblooms]

The magnet absolutely will be loaded. I guarantee it. But of course, that's why it's there.

 

[Tribe&TrueRacin]

The magnet absolutely will be loaded. I guarantee it. But of course, that's why it's there.

Ya the bummer is that there are more parts made from aluminum then components of iron. So the magnetic is one of a couple protection parts.
Back to the magnet...As added protection I use a Dimple drain plug magnet and replaced the OEM magnet with a Neodymium Ring. The oem transmission magnet I just stick on the bottom of the engine oil filter for sheeets and giggles.

What did he say "some" "sediment" like all automatics? Not the ones that get service on a regular basis. And I think anyone will be surprised what they find when in the pan and oil analysis regarding a MAZDA.
The lower part of the pan has little to no windage and most everything bad gravity accumulates there. As for the "sediment" that normally most of it composition forms from contaminated or burned fluid from not doing routine fluid servicing.
Its those other materials not caught by anything or drained out during a filter service that generally start to wear things in an automatic.
A good reason why in line or remote tradition spin on filter really do work better then the pancake traditional bug catchers in most all automatics.


Hey... as always you all can make your own choice, MYTH and DIY information is not always wrong but many times they don't have all the facts. When I post on some threads as other that tend to use our experience to help steer some with better information hopefully deciding that like most things regarding vehicle services, nothing can be done to soon and the word preventative should be a paramount word to use when deciding things like the best service schedules to follow. Naturally it is always best to at least do the auto manufacture basic scheduled service but doing anything before is never a bad choice! And please really think...LIFETIME no service? Come on we are car enthusiasts and not that naive!