2016 CX-5: Control Arm, Tie Rod and other issues?

[Chibitul.Smeche]

I have a 2016 CX-5 with about 55k miles which I took to the dealer for an oil change in Jan 2022. They found these issues:

CONTROL ARM - FRONT : ball joints and bushings cracked badly, $800
TIE ROD END REPLACEMENT : ball joints cracked badly: $452
DIFFERENTIAL SEALS : front transfer case needs new seals leaking fluid: $800

and a few other things: PVC, Throttle body cleaning, Spark Plug replacement, etc.

I took the car to an independent mechanic and they inspected it and they said I don't need any of these. There is a hairline minor crack in the ball going indeed but it's minor and does not pose any problems.

in July I took the car again to a different dealer for another oil change now at 60k. They found similar issues:

REAR DIFFERENTIAL SERVICE DUE EVERY 30K , .TRANSFER-CASE SERVICE DUE EVERY 30K, .FUEL INJECTION SERVICE , .THROTTLE BODY SERVICE, .FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARMS NEED TO BE REPLACED, .THE BUSHINGS ARE DRY ROTTED/TORN AND .THE BALL JOINTS LOOSE/DUST BOOTS ARE DRY ROTTED., .OUTER TIE RODS ARE WORN/LOOSE OR RUBBER SEALS ARE DRY ROTTED

I took the car to Another independent mechanic and I told them I want to buy it and to give me a pre-purchase inspection. They put it on the lift and once again they don't see any problems with the tie rods or control arms.

I don't have the skills to get under the car and inspect myself. What do you do: do you trust the dealer, maybe there is something wrong after all, or do you trust the independent mechanics?

Thanks all.

 

[shooter357]

Even independent mechs want to make a buck. I would venture to say if they told you you didn't need it you don't. Dealerships have higher overheads than independents so they try to get everything out of you they can. Of course this doesn't mean all independents are honest but all things considered I'd take their word in this instance!

 

[Jack Rabbit]

If that's your original vehicle, unless you've driven it hard, ran over speed bumps at high speeds, hit potholes and curbs at high speed, been severe offroading, etc., Then there should be nothing wrong with them. Trust the local mechanics. And control arms, only to time I ever had to replace a control arm(which is a major PITA) is when I lost control of vehicle on ice and hit highway curb at highway speed of 25 mph through business route. I've had control arms last life of vehicle(14 years, etc). Tie rods and ball joints depend on wear. But only 50 k before failure would be extremely rare. On my last 14 year old, 180 k vehicle, my local mechanic only replaced ball joints and tie rods once during the life of the car.

And look in your manual for your differential service... It is only if you run submerge it in water/flood waters , etc. Else it is at your discretion whether to change early.

 

[edmaz]

Even independent mechs want to make a buck. I would venture to say if they told you you didn't need it you don't. Dealerships have higher overheads than independents so they try to get everything out of you they can. Of course this doesn't mean all independents are honest but all things considered I'd take their word in this instance!

+1 to this ^^. I'll just add that you've had the good fortune to find not just one, but two honest shops. And I recommend using what you discovered to your best advantage, by having all of your future maintenance and repairs done at either or both of these shops, and never going back to those stealerships again.

 

[GAXIBM]

The second dealer can see what the first dealer put on your invoice as it is filed by the unique car VIN so he wants to cash in as well...

 

[Chibitul.Smeche]

The second dealer can see what the first dealer put on your invoice as it is filed by the unique car VIN so he wants to cash in as well...

I thought about that. The first one used xtime.com, the second used xtime.com for appointments but kaarmadealer.com for emails about repairs

still, maybe they can see each other's notes

 

[ColtX-5]

Always check the manual for lubricant change intervals and service requirements. Following the manual, I change my trans, xfer case and diff lubes at 30k miles, because I TOW AN RV.

The ball joint is not replaceable by itself, but is part of the lower control arm. I hit a curb hard enough to flatten a tire, bend a wheel and break a ball joint. My trusted mechanic replaced it and aligned the car for about $660.

Plugs are due at 75k miles. It is an easy DIY.

Dealers that do this sort of scams should be reported to Mazda NA. Maybe next time you can insist they show you the damage on the lift. The ATF in a CX-5 is a pale straw color with a hint of blue tint. Any other color is something the mechanic sprayed on.