Niitovuoppi
Member
- :
- Mazda 6 sport, 2010, 2.2diesel 180hp
Here's the deal. well - project, whatever, you'll get the idea.
I'm gonna need a few pointers along the way of the build, so im asking you people with more experience with Mazda builds than me.
"Cop attracting red" Mazda 6 2010 2.2 diesel 180hp hatchback.
With Navi&BOSE setup. 4+1. the "1" is a... lets call it subwoofer... picture further down wich explains the "1"
GPS navigation
Yes - my phone is called what the display says and i chuckle every time i see the name.
Dual 10" RF P2.
Lightning Audio 600w 4channel block.
1F RF condensator
Custom made 37liter enclosures without cloth. yes they are funnylookin'
Original BOSE subwoofer opended up on my test-bench.
yes. its a 15cm (6") subwoofer... a blasted 6" subwoofer for crying out loud.
A note on the BOSE system tho.
I've red all over that BOSE is s***, BOSE is that, BOSE is fucknut.
But the front+back speakers arent actually THAT bad... I'm not a hifi-freak or anything like that, but it actually sounds better (not louder) than the db-drag Ground Zero front+backset i had in my old car...
anyways, heres the deal:
My new toy, 3 weeks in my posession and i've yet to find documentation or schematics for the gps-navi and BOSE setup.
After forumsearches and numerous hours i've figured out that the amplifier is under the passenger seat and not in the dashboard.
The thing is - i want to make it as easy as possible to move the stereo from my old car into the new car... wich means:
I want to tap into the signal from the BOSE amplifier in the trunk for the subwoofers (this makes it supereasy for me). only need the 54AWG powercable from the engineroom and no signalcable.
But, that means the signal gets processed by the stock BOSE amplifier FIRST, THEN the custom amp wich could make the sound weird. or crap. whichever sounds worse.
4 cables, two red and two pink ones (red beeing plus and pink is ground). easily tappable for a signal.
but the dual signalprosessing worries me. also the "regular" line-in (RCA) converters have a 55w MAX limit... iow. I dont know how much power the BOSE amp pushes out to the sub.
Anyone with experience with this particular kind of setup? If so, I'd do anything to hear it. almost anything. (will provide tits. not my own, tho)
Also, its guaranteed that the signal is a low-pass signal only so i cant hook up some 6x9" in the back. for that i HAVE to tap into the BOSE amp.
Ripping the BOSE amp out means i have to remove the whole god damned passengerseat... wich I really dont want to. Beeing an IT advisor I know my electronics, but thats a no-touch-zone for me unless I HAVE to.
This is the first bump in the road before I can continue my build...
Some pointers would be super
After this is sorted out the build continues and if you wanna see I'd be happy to post pictures on what you helped create
-Stle
I'm gonna need a few pointers along the way of the build, so im asking you people with more experience with Mazda builds than me.
"Cop attracting red" Mazda 6 2010 2.2 diesel 180hp hatchback.
With Navi&BOSE setup. 4+1. the "1" is a... lets call it subwoofer... picture further down wich explains the "1"

GPS navigation
Yes - my phone is called what the display says and i chuckle every time i see the name.
Dual 10" RF P2.
Lightning Audio 600w 4channel block.
1F RF condensator
Custom made 37liter enclosures without cloth. yes they are funnylookin'
Original BOSE subwoofer opended up on my test-bench.
yes. its a 15cm (6") subwoofer... a blasted 6" subwoofer for crying out loud.
A note on the BOSE system tho.
I've red all over that BOSE is s***, BOSE is that, BOSE is fucknut.
But the front+back speakers arent actually THAT bad... I'm not a hifi-freak or anything like that, but it actually sounds better (not louder) than the db-drag Ground Zero front+backset i had in my old car...
anyways, heres the deal:
My new toy, 3 weeks in my posession and i've yet to find documentation or schematics for the gps-navi and BOSE setup.
After forumsearches and numerous hours i've figured out that the amplifier is under the passenger seat and not in the dashboard.
The thing is - i want to make it as easy as possible to move the stereo from my old car into the new car... wich means:
I want to tap into the signal from the BOSE amplifier in the trunk for the subwoofers (this makes it supereasy for me). only need the 54AWG powercable from the engineroom and no signalcable.
But, that means the signal gets processed by the stock BOSE amplifier FIRST, THEN the custom amp wich could make the sound weird. or crap. whichever sounds worse.

4 cables, two red and two pink ones (red beeing plus and pink is ground). easily tappable for a signal.
but the dual signalprosessing worries me. also the "regular" line-in (RCA) converters have a 55w MAX limit... iow. I dont know how much power the BOSE amp pushes out to the sub.
Anyone with experience with this particular kind of setup? If so, I'd do anything to hear it. almost anything. (will provide tits. not my own, tho)
Also, its guaranteed that the signal is a low-pass signal only so i cant hook up some 6x9" in the back. for that i HAVE to tap into the BOSE amp.
Ripping the BOSE amp out means i have to remove the whole god damned passengerseat... wich I really dont want to. Beeing an IT advisor I know my electronics, but thats a no-touch-zone for me unless I HAVE to.
This is the first bump in the road before I can continue my build...
Some pointers would be super

After this is sorted out the build continues and if you wanna see I'd be happy to post pictures on what you helped create

-Stle