1st CEL, few questions.

[Domino81]

By trade I am in the automotive industry. I know this doesn't always work, but I figured I'd ask. First CEL came on tonight... (rolleyes)

Can I un-hook the battery for a bit and erase codes? Also, let the car idle for a bit, gas was almost on E, when I got back in the car there was my CEL. Wondered if anyone else has ever had this happen?

 

[cclngthr]

You can, but often the code still is in memory. It is best to erase it with the scan tool.

What code came up?

 

[Domino81]

I don't know, I don't have a scan tool. Makes me want an AP or HT. :shrug: I'll look into tomorrow ...I used to be a service adviser and I still have a few friends in the shop that have a scan tool. Ugh. I hate OBDII.

 

[cclngthr]

I don't know, I don't have a scan tool. Makes me want an AP or HT. :shrug: I'll look into tomorrow ...I used to be a service adviser and I still have a few friends in the shop that have a scan tool. Ugh. I hate OBDII.

They are not cheap either, at least the ones I have for the shop. I paid about $25,000 for the Toughbook one I have, which has software for all manufacturers.

The MS3 does have intermittent misfires and MAF codes that do come up.

 

[Domino81]

scan tools don't have to be pricey, around $100 will get you one. And the Hypertech and AccessPort will both read codes. I plan to read it and erase it and move on. In hopes it doesn't come back.

 

[cclngthr]

scan tools don't have to be pricey, around $100 will get you one. And the Hypertech and AccessPort will both read codes. I plan to read it and erase it and move on. In hopes it doesn't come back.

Since I have a shop, I'm using one every day and need to access more than engine/trans trouble codes.

 

[Domino81]

I used to have access to the Veras by Snap-On. But since I no longer work for that place (thank god) I can't just check 'em on a whim.

 

[Domino81]

P2177, P2178 Bank 1 & 2 too lean at idle.

I was coasting in on fumes when picking up my son when I obtained this.

 

[cclngthr]

P2177, P2178 Bank 1 & 2 too lean at idle.

I was coasting in on fumes when picking up my son when I obtained this.

P2177 is Too lean off Idle bank 1
P2178 is Too Rich off Idle bank 1

If you had a lean condition off idle in both banks you would have P2177 and P2179.

There is a TSB on this:
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/mazda3/bulletin/01-052-06-1606.pdf

The issue is the purge valve stuck open. The TSB tells you to check the purge valve with a vacuum gauge and if it does not hold vacuum well over time, replace it. I recommend replacing it anyway. They can intermittently not seal then seal. When they do that, they are toast.

 

[Domino81]

I still have about 19k left of powertrain warranty. This doesn't cover that... does it? I'm kinda glad I have a commercial account through United Auto Supply.

 

[cclngthr]

I still have about 19k left of powertrain warranty. This doesn't cover that... does it? I'm kinda glad I have a commercial account through United Auto Supply.

It might not if it is just the powertrain warranty. Usually when the B2B warranty is up, the sensors, solenoids and electrical valves do not get replaced under warranty after the B2B is up. You can ask if the purge valve is still under warranty since there is a TSB on it under the powertrain warranty, but they may not cover it. You can ask, but they may tell you no. If you erase the codes, you would not get it repaired under warranty with no codes.

Purge valves are common failure points. They go out easy.

 

[Domino81]

I know, I'm selling vent valve all day for GM's.

 

[Domino81]

Part # LF66-20-360J Purge Solenoid Valve with Hose 1 - $111, my cost. NOT covered by any kind of warranty. Erased the code last night. Came RIGHT back on this morning. :sigh: This is why I stopped driving my Probe. For stupid nickel and dime s*** like this. I bought this car so I wouldn't have to worry about anything for a while.

What would you do, boss?

 

[spdjnke]

try resetting it again after you drive the car to normal operating temps maybe that will help.?? just a thought. If not then I would say there are so many wrecked cars on ebay you can surely get one for cheap.

but just out of curisity, did the dealer say it's not covered? cuz that's part of power train.

 

[Domino81]

I already spoke to Mazda this morning. No dice on the warranty. I tried putting that number into Ebay... meh. Nothin'.

And I re-set the code last night... took maybe, 10 minutes to re-appear.

 

[cclngthr]

try resetting it again after you drive the car to normal operating temps maybe that will help.?? just a thought. If not then I would say there are so many wrecked cars on ebay you can surely get one for cheap.

but just out of curisity, did the dealer say it's not covered? cuz that's part of power train.

It would not be covered under the powertrain because that is a LIMITED warranty that covers the mechanicals, not sensors, electrical solenoids, injectors etc. The ECU might be covered, but the sensors etc. are not. If the bearings failed, or a rod went out, valvetrain problems, or transmission gears went out, it is covered.

Part # LF66-20-360J Purge Solenoid Valve with Hose 1 - $111, my cost. NOT covered by any kind of warranty. Erased the code last night. Came RIGHT back on this morning. :sigh: This is why I stopped driving my Probe. For stupid nickel and dime s*** like this. I bought this car so I wouldn't have to worry about anything for a while.

I would go ahead and replace the purge valve. They are a common failure on Ford and other cars.

 

[cclngthr]

I already spoke to Mazda this morning. No dice on the warranty. I tried putting that number into Ebay... meh. Nothin'.

And I re-set the code last night... took maybe, 10 minutes to re-appear.

The valve is stuck open. Sometimes if you clean them, they may start working, but most of the time, they have to be replaced.

 

[oaklandopen]

Junk yards might have it...other than that you'll probably just have to get it at the dealer. Were you going to install it yourself?

And your comment about getting a car and not having to worry about it....any car could have problems, there's no such thing as a perfect car. Else, there wouldn't be repair shops

Your issue might be a common issue in this car, but component failure rates are hit an miss. Problems I've had so far, I found my drivers side output shaft leaking during an oil change (fixed under warranty), and my accellerometer crapped out (also fixed under warranty). And as far as I know those issues are either rare or haven't happened to anyone on here cuz I don't remember reading about anyone else having those issues

And (knock on wood) I haven't had any of the problems that seem to be most common like smoking turbos and whatnot

 

[cclngthr]

Junk yards might have it...other than that you'll probably just have to get it at the dealer. Were you going to install it yourself?

And your comment about getting a car and not having to worry about it....any car could have problems, there's no such thing as a perfect car. Else, there wouldn't be repair shops

Your issue might be a common issue in this car, but component failure rates are hit an miss. Problems I've had so far, I found my drivers side output shaft leaking during an oil change (fixed under warranty), and my accellerometer crapped out (also fixed under warranty). And as far as I know those issues are either rare or haven't happened to anyone on here cuz I don't remember reading about anyone else having those issues

And (knock on wood) I haven't had any of the problems that seem to be most common like smoking turbos and whatnot

I have had brand new cars that had sensors fail and whatnot. On my Mazda, a week after I got it, the gas cap busted. Replaced under warranty, which I now use as a spare since I put a locking gas cap on the car.