Maybe the motor not rotating as much after a stiffer piece is in, may help out with the WH. Does the transmission move with the engine? I recall that while revving the engine hard and watching with my hood open, even when stock, it seemed like the intercooler moved a good inch toward the firewall. kinda scary if i recall. thats the reason i bought the Corksport insert. The track opens soon here and i need to upgrade the motor mount from insert to something more serious soon. mine has gone all soft on me after about 20,000 miles of abuse. And a job well done. but. Next!
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1/4 mile times with slip
- Thread starter MS3077
- Start date
Well, since the transmission is bolted to the engine like a billion times, yeah, I'd say it moves with the engine.
We should probably get this thread back on topic though. There are millions of "which mount is better" threads for this kind of stuff.
I'm going to the track next week with the new intercooler and turbo inlet. I am stoked!
We should probably get this thread back on topic though. There are millions of "which mount is better" threads for this kind of stuff.
I'm going to the track next week with the new intercooler and turbo inlet. I am stoked!
FMOS Racing
Member
- :
- 2008 MS3, plus a pickup and a beater car
Weather won't cooperate with me here. Grrr!
Eric - The car has a soft rev limiter so when you hit it, it just stops accelerating. It's actually kinda cool compared to all the popping and banging that cars used to have when they hit the limiter. When I do my burnout, I just floor it and let it sit on the limiter, but the car sounds smooth. My guess is that the ECU closes the throttle to prevent any further revs rather than cutting fuel or spark like the older limiters used to do.
Eric - The car has a soft rev limiter so when you hit it, it just stops accelerating. It's actually kinda cool compared to all the popping and banging that cars used to have when they hit the limiter. When I do my burnout, I just floor it and let it sit on the limiter, but the car sounds smooth. My guess is that the ECU closes the throttle to prevent any further revs rather than cutting fuel or spark like the older limiters used to do.
Weather won't cooperate with me here. Grrr!
Eric - The car has a soft rev limiter so when you hit it, it just stops accelerating. It's actually kinda cool compared to all the popping and banging that cars used to have when they hit the limiter. When I do my burnout, I just floor it and let it sit on the limiter, but the car sounds smooth. My guess is that the ECU closes the throttle to prevent any further revs rather than cutting fuel or spark like the older limiters used to do.
The soft limiter was my sense also, although I did not test it. This would mean that we can flat shift at 5,500 rpm or so, keeping the pedal down without concern about killing power when hitting the ref limiter.
I recall that when Car and Drive first tested an '07 MS3, in the write up the reviewer said that a Mazda engineer told him to just keep the foot down between shifts that "it won't hurt the car."
Still have to feather the mother in first and second, but being able to flat shift into the higher gears might cut a little off the ET. What do you think?
The soft limiter was my sense also, although I did not test it. This would mean that we can flat shift at 5,500 rpm or so, keeping the pedal down without concern about killing power when hitting the ref limiter.
I recall that when Car and Drive first tested an '07 MS3, in the write up the reviewer said that a Mazda engineer told him to just keep the foot down between shifts that "it won't hurt the car."
Still have to feather the mother in first and second, but being able to flat shift into the higher gears might cut a little off the ET. What do you think?
I granny shift to second and flat shift all other gears. Works well.
fostersafb
Member
- :
- 2009 Mazdaspeed3 GT MGM
I granny shift to second and flat shift all other gears. Works well.
Can you elaborate further on this?
Can you elaborate further on this?
1-2 shift take foot off gas to shift
2-3 shift without taking foot off gas
3-4 shift without taking foot off gas
fostersafb
Member
- :
- 2009 Mazdaspeed3 GT MGM
Sorry, I'll be more specific. At which rpm do you launch? Do you drop the clutch? Do you feather the clutch at partial throttle and then go wot? At which rpm do you shift into 2nd? Do you feather the clutch entering 2nd or quickly release? At which rpm do you shift into 3rd? 4th? Do you shift into 5th or redline it to reach 1/4 mile?
Self explanatory would be for those that have experience doing this.
Self explanatory would be for those that have experience doing this.
fostersafb
Member
- :
- 2009 Mazdaspeed3 GT MGM
Are you guys keeping the DSC on or off? Foster your questions make the point well. that there is a lot to consider to hustle the car down the track. 2weeks left and counting
I knew I missed something, lol.
I know I've given my dissertation on how to launch a car before, and I think it was in this thread, but sure I'll do it again...
Lane selection:
There is sometimes a "faster lane" at a track (maybe this lane has better traction at the line and cars have been pulling better 60' times), but if they are the same, I like to pick the left side, because I can see my tach and the light tree at the same time.
A proper stage (for running your best ET):
pull forward until the first light is illuminated.
inch forward until the second is illuminated and immediately stop.
if you pull any farther forward, you are essentially shortening the track by overstaging.
A proper reaction time:
There are different opinions on the staging game, but I like to be the first to stage. That gives me time to calm myself, focus on the tree and get my revs where I want them. Wait until the third yellow is lit and go go go!
A proper launch:
have your revs where you want them, and slip the clutch while mashing the gas. I'd list rpms and specific techniques, but this is really a game of feel. I ran my best times launching at 2,500 rpms or so, but depending on your mods, you might want to launch higher or lower. Also, you might not be able to go to the floor with the gas in first gear. Practice practice practice. This is why you get your times in increments. so you can know where your time is coming up short.
Proper shifts:
1-2 shift - granny shift
2-3 shift - foot on the gas, tap the clutch and be quick with the shifter
3-4 shift - same
4-5 shift - same (and yes, I'm deep into 5th gear across the traps)
Shift points:
1-2 I waited until about 6k rpm I think
2-3 about 5,800?
3-4 same
4-5 same
The last time I ran was almost a year ago, so I don't remember exactly, but that should be about it. And like I said, there is no one way to run that will work on everyone's car. This is a nice starting point, but there are tons of places to improve, and the only way to do it is to practice. I've been going to the drag strip for like 12 years. Practice makes perfect, and in 12 years, I'm still nowhere near perfect. Get out there and go!
Lane selection:
There is sometimes a "faster lane" at a track (maybe this lane has better traction at the line and cars have been pulling better 60' times), but if they are the same, I like to pick the left side, because I can see my tach and the light tree at the same time.
A proper stage (for running your best ET):
pull forward until the first light is illuminated.
inch forward until the second is illuminated and immediately stop.
if you pull any farther forward, you are essentially shortening the track by overstaging.
A proper reaction time:
There are different opinions on the staging game, but I like to be the first to stage. That gives me time to calm myself, focus on the tree and get my revs where I want them. Wait until the third yellow is lit and go go go!
A proper launch:
have your revs where you want them, and slip the clutch while mashing the gas. I'd list rpms and specific techniques, but this is really a game of feel. I ran my best times launching at 2,500 rpms or so, but depending on your mods, you might want to launch higher or lower. Also, you might not be able to go to the floor with the gas in first gear. Practice practice practice. This is why you get your times in increments. so you can know where your time is coming up short.
Proper shifts:
1-2 shift - granny shift
2-3 shift - foot on the gas, tap the clutch and be quick with the shifter
3-4 shift - same
4-5 shift - same (and yes, I'm deep into 5th gear across the traps)
Shift points:
1-2 I waited until about 6k rpm I think
2-3 about 5,800?
3-4 same
4-5 same
The last time I ran was almost a year ago, so I don't remember exactly, but that should be about it. And like I said, there is no one way to run that will work on everyone's car. This is a nice starting point, but there are tons of places to improve, and the only way to do it is to practice. I've been going to the drag strip for like 12 years. Practice makes perfect, and in 12 years, I'm still nowhere near perfect. Get out there and go!
Also, DSC is off. I don't do the "hold the button while you're turning your car on to make sure it's all the way off cause then you get 432 extra horsepower" thing. I just turn it off before I stage. Also, make sure your AC is off so you don't drip water on the track. Also you get 2 extra horsepower!
Also, I lower my front tires to like 25psi.
Also, don't be gay and do a burn out. it doesn't help on radials.
Also... ummm..... that's it!
Also, I lower my front tires to like 25psi.
Also, don't be gay and do a burn out. it doesn't help on radials.
Also... ummm..... that's it!
fostersafb
Member
- :
- 2009 Mazdaspeed3 GT MGM
^^Much appreciated^^
FMOS Racing
Member
- :
- 2008 MS3, plus a pickup and a beater car
My right foot never leaves the floor once it hits it. If it hooks in first, I powershift all gears.
I made it to the track tonight, but neither the track nor the weather were very good. I couldn't hook for the most part (nobody could very well, had several people get awfully close to the wall in race cars) and with high humidity and low baro, it just wasn't a great night. But I did some tire testing.
I started out on the 225/50-16 Hoosiers. Average 60' time over 6 passes was 2.16, average ET was 13.56, average mph was 103.55, best was a 2.015, 13.300@104.01. I was kinda shocked that everything was so far off last fall (I can get 2.1x 60' times on the stock tires, for crying out loud), so I switched to the 255/50-16 BFGs expecting the car to pick up mph.
I ran the BFGs for 5 passes and averaged 2.10, 13.56@101.46, best pass was a 2.053, 13.448@102.29. Well look at that, the mph DROPPED so the big tires DO hurt mph by making the gearing taller. Glad I guessed right or I would've been annoyed at Hoosier!
I switched back to the Hoosiers for 5 more passes and averaged 2.09, 13.46@104.51. Best pass was a 2.051, 13.310@104.77. So, as the temperature dropped a little through the evening, the car was picking up.
It started to rain, so that was that.
Note that the mph decreased from the Hoosiers to the BFGs and then picked back up when I switched back to the Hoosiers. So, the shorter tire is an advantage down the track. Didn't see much difference in 60', but since the BFGs are an inch and a half wider, just goes to show how much better the Hoosiers are as a tire.
I think that the Hoosiers can use a little less pressure than I'm currently running (20 psi), but that experiment will have to wait for another day. Hopefully I can get a nice, cool, dry day before things warm up too much!
I made it to the track tonight, but neither the track nor the weather were very good. I couldn't hook for the most part (nobody could very well, had several people get awfully close to the wall in race cars) and with high humidity and low baro, it just wasn't a great night. But I did some tire testing.
I started out on the 225/50-16 Hoosiers. Average 60' time over 6 passes was 2.16, average ET was 13.56, average mph was 103.55, best was a 2.015, 13.300@104.01. I was kinda shocked that everything was so far off last fall (I can get 2.1x 60' times on the stock tires, for crying out loud), so I switched to the 255/50-16 BFGs expecting the car to pick up mph.
I ran the BFGs for 5 passes and averaged 2.10, 13.56@101.46, best pass was a 2.053, 13.448@102.29. Well look at that, the mph DROPPED so the big tires DO hurt mph by making the gearing taller. Glad I guessed right or I would've been annoyed at Hoosier!
I switched back to the Hoosiers for 5 more passes and averaged 2.09, 13.46@104.51. Best pass was a 2.051, 13.310@104.77. So, as the temperature dropped a little through the evening, the car was picking up.
It started to rain, so that was that.
Note that the mph decreased from the Hoosiers to the BFGs and then picked back up when I switched back to the Hoosiers. So, the shorter tire is an advantage down the track. Didn't see much difference in 60', but since the BFGs are an inch and a half wider, just goes to show how much better the Hoosiers are as a tire.
I think that the Hoosiers can use a little less pressure than I'm currently running (20 psi), but that experiment will have to wait for another day. Hopefully I can get a nice, cool, dry day before things warm up too much!
so one thing i've noticed my 60' times are better when i first arrive after traveling on the highway for almost an hour. Stock tires must be hot and I get great traction... later in the night my tires (and prob track temps too) get cooler. I don't use the water pit to heat them up because I've been told its useless for these types of tires but I also have found my times get worse with the colder tires. SO... should I heat them up? Little burnout? Thoughts?
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