Sexiest sub box EVER.

You had sex with it? That's why the paint job is so shiny!

That is amazing, it makes my ghetto uncovered MDF cube turn red with shame...

You should be damn proud. I'd be so afraid so ****** would break in to my car , why not just spray the windows with black paint so no-one sees in.
 
I just checked out the picture gallery and am even more impressed! The details are what gets me, the little fins that match the Alpine heatsync fins, the sexy flowing curves on the side, you certainly made it looks like it belongs in there. And the paint job is superb (and sooo shiny). Very nicely done.
 
Thanks again for all the compliments guys! This guy at work that thinks modding cars is stupid even said he was impressed, that was damn cool.



ddogg777 said:
Nice job Elemental.
I'm still a little hazy on how the fiberglassing process runs. First, you took out all the panels and laid foil tape over everything. Then, you laid out your purple fiberglass cloth and then resined it all up? Does it just come off the tape or how does that work? Afterwords you used bondo to smooth it up?
I fiberglassed with all the panels still there, I didnt wanna dissasemble my car, I have enough "extra parts" in my garage.

I laid aluminum tape, then hot glued cotton fleece to the sides of the interior trim and stapled it to the MDF box. Then I soaked the cotton fleece with fiberglass resin using a brush. Took everything out and trimmed it. Then I laid fiberglass matt and resin to build up the strenght. Both the inside and the outside of the box have 4-5 layers of fiberglass. After that I trimmed it some more, and with it in the car, used bondo to fill any gaps between the fiberglass and the car. HOURS and HOURS of bondo, sanding, messing up, fixing and it was ready to be primered and painted.
 
sexiest in a P5...yes

sexiest EVER...definately not
 

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Black Majik MSP said:
sexiest in a P5...yes

sexiest EVER...definately not
Well...this one is definately a candidate for "sexiest box ever in a P5" if you ask me...
 

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I'm late on the bandwagon because I don't frequent the audio section (not an audiophile at all) but DAYUM! Looks great elemental!

Even greg wants to dance to the new system

AGR.gif
 
You took your time and did it right and it payed off!! It's tits! I would have some serious seperation anxiety if I had that set up though...like i would have a hard time leaving the two way pager radius(wink)
 
ELEmental59437 said:
I got one of those pics as the desktop on my PC her at work... I keep minimizing my programs to look at it.. lmfao.
Aside from the joke, it looks kick ass man.
 
Thanks dude.

The FedEx guy at work told me he hit my car with his truck to get me to go outside and show him the car. I was friggin PISSED until he told me he was kidding. He wants to pay me to do some work on his nova.. $$$$ cha ching!
 
Oh please elemental..Can you give me every tip you can think of about bondo? I have the basics of glassing down pat just about nowadays, but my bondo process takes longer than it should, I know iit takes a long time, but I always wind up mixing my bondo too hot and have tons of pitting, or I mix it way "lean" and the shape doesn't hold right..YOu look as if you are SICK SICK with it as far as bondo goes...

Is that the lightweight bondo? Did you use a layer of bondoglass first and then go straight to that ? I need to buy that, bondoglass is WAYYYY thick
 
best way to go is make ur box out of wood, foam around it to get your form , then fiberglass the foam, it should work.. for 5 dollars a bottle for selfexpanding foam. they even make a soundproof one if you want to keep the sound in put a line of it in empty spaces in the vehicle..
 
Foam seems like more trouble than its worth. Me method of gluing the cotton fleece to the sides and glassing it for a shape was pretty easy and painless..

As far as bondo, use sanding blocks, and never bondo over bondo that hasnt been sanded. Meaning make the bondo as flat as possible before adding another layer. Use lightweight bondo on smaller areas that have a lot of details (the notches on the sides of the amps on my box). Always mix only as much as you can use, and the smoother you lay it the easier it is to sand it and the less waste you have. I use the bondo brand "squeegy" things. Those are nice because they are the pinkish color that is reccomended when mixing the bondo.

Use thinner to clean the squeegy, if you dont have any, what works is to put the leftover crusty bondo in a pile on wherever you mix it, and push one side of the squeegy down on it. Once its hardened you pull it off and that half of the squeegy is perfectly clean. You dont want junk stuck on it making lines in your bondo when you put it down.

And for pits, use that tube of pre-mixed bondo. Its that red stuff that you just put on with your finger in the small pits and it hardens by itself. Use that only for filling pits, not to shape anything.

I didnt use any bondoglass. Just bondo, and the lightweight stuff.

When primering, first put a coat or two of a single color primer, then wetsand all the way to the bondo with medium-fine sand paper. That will fill all the lines from sanding with the heavy duty sand paper. Then what I would do is spray 2 coats of a light color primer, and two coats of a dark color primer. Wet sand with a wetsanding block (somewhat flxible sanding block). If you have an area that stays the darker color, you have a large indention or pit there because the sanding block isnt flush with the shape of the box. Make sence? basically its a way to bring out the imperfections that you cant see when the box is a flat color, and all the same color. If you were to paint and clearcoar over that large dip, it would be visible when the light hits it.
 
Ahmad, that sub box really turned out nice! Now get boost, and we can call you the Element of speed!
 
Just took some more pics.

I know I forgot about those pics that were requested. I will get on those tomarrow night, please send me a PM to remind me!

subbox43.jpg


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