Just bought a 2008 Mazda5 with 128,000 miles. Got it from a small used car lot that purchased it a few days before from the Classic auto group dealer-only auction here in suburban Cleveland, a large, multi-brand new car dealership. The car seems to run well, shift smoothly. Engine oil looks fresh and golden and has a new filter and serpentine drive belt. But I haven't checked the transmission oil yet for color or smell but am planning on driving about 1,300 miles back and forth to New England next week. I was wondering if it would be advisable to change the trans fluid and replace the strainer/filter unit?
If I do, I would NOT ever power flush the trans but instead do it old-school by draining the pan via the plug, then putting the plug back on and refilling the trans, disconnecting the trans cooler line, putting on a plastic tube and then running the motor for a few minutes to drain the old fluid from the torque converter while adding new fluid via the dipstick tube until the color is bright and clear. Then I would drive the car for a few hundred miles and repeat the procedure, only this time I would drop the pan and change the strainer/filter first, reinstall the pan and gasket. And I would only use OEM Mazda Type 5 fluid or the Idemitsu Type M fluid.
So my questions are:
1.) if the fluid looks black and dirty, should I do a fluid and strainer/filter change the way I described?
2.) when I drop the pan and change the strainer/filter, what is the difference between the Mazda dealer's OEM part (#FNC121500A) which wholesales for $70.65 and the auto parts store units from Fram, NAPA, etc... which sell for around $20?
3.) I know the original pan gasket was an RTV silicone sealant but today the strainer/filter kits come with either a rubberized or cork material pan gasket. Which of these 2 gasket materials is the best way to go, assuming not using RTV silicone?
Really appreciate you opinions on this as I want to be proactive but don't want to open up a can of worms in doing so.
And what other things do you suggest I look at to thoroughly inspect the car and upgrades/mods to make it better?
THANKS!
If I do, I would NOT ever power flush the trans but instead do it old-school by draining the pan via the plug, then putting the plug back on and refilling the trans, disconnecting the trans cooler line, putting on a plastic tube and then running the motor for a few minutes to drain the old fluid from the torque converter while adding new fluid via the dipstick tube until the color is bright and clear. Then I would drive the car for a few hundred miles and repeat the procedure, only this time I would drop the pan and change the strainer/filter first, reinstall the pan and gasket. And I would only use OEM Mazda Type 5 fluid or the Idemitsu Type M fluid.
So my questions are:
1.) if the fluid looks black and dirty, should I do a fluid and strainer/filter change the way I described?
2.) when I drop the pan and change the strainer/filter, what is the difference between the Mazda dealer's OEM part (#FNC121500A) which wholesales for $70.65 and the auto parts store units from Fram, NAPA, etc... which sell for around $20?
3.) I know the original pan gasket was an RTV silicone sealant but today the strainer/filter kits come with either a rubberized or cork material pan gasket. Which of these 2 gasket materials is the best way to go, assuming not using RTV silicone?
Really appreciate you opinions on this as I want to be proactive but don't want to open up a can of worms in doing so.
And what other things do you suggest I look at to thoroughly inspect the car and upgrades/mods to make it better?
THANKS!