Interesting facts, thanks for sharing! [emoji106]
Adjustable Camber Arm
- Thread starter Chris_Top_Her
- Start date
Interesting facts, thanks for sharing! [emoji106]
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- San Antonio, Texas
- :
- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
random
OK, it seems like it's done and to me, it looks good.
They had to use the air bag tool, on the front right passenger side, after they loosened one of the bottom strut bolts and re-tightened it, after they pushed the strut a bit with that tool, it get closer to the right number. Without using that tool, it was still in green, but it was just borderline.
Yeah, I'm done and I don't have to make the camber arm. It was a cheap fix as well.
Now, I will have to repair the paint, on those messed up wheels.
Took a picture with this screen on there PC, it looks cooler then the paper they have gave me.
They had to use the air bag tool, on the front right passenger side, after they loosened one of the bottom strut bolts and re-tightened it, after they pushed the strut a bit with that tool, it get closer to the right number. Without using that tool, it was still in green, but it was just borderline.
Yeah, I'm done and I don't have to make the camber arm. It was a cheap fix as well.
Now, I will have to repair the paint, on those messed up wheels.
Took a picture with this screen on there PC, it looks cooler then the paper they have gave me.
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- San Antonio, Texas
- :
- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
I don't think you ever posted a pic of those wheels
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Oddly enough, I had a recent alignment (as part of the repairs) and mine was in spec too, when it never has been before.
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- San Antonio, Texas
- :
- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
while I had my wheel off, put the camber arm on the protruding parts of the bolts.
If only Jbr offere this arm about 1-2 inch longer.
How much thread is left after the arm is extended to the length of the cx-5 (the bit behind the nut)
If only Jbr offere this arm about 1-2 inch longer.
How much thread is left after the arm is extended to the length of the cx-5 (the bit behind the nut)
OK, it seems like it's done and to me, it looks good.
They had to use the air bag tool, on the front right passenger side, after they loosened one of the bottom strut bolts and re-tightened it, after they pushed the strut a bit with that tool, it get closer to the right number. Without using that tool, it was still in green, but it was just borderline.
Yeah, I'm done and I don't have to make the camber arm. It was a cheap fix as well.
Now, I will have to repair the paint, on those messed up wheels.
Took a picture with this screen on there PC, it looks cooler then the paper they have gave me.
View attachment 211453
The airbag tool, a luxury tools new technicians get to use! When I need to push or pull a wheel into specs, my "airbag tool" was another strong hands from another tech!
Congrats on finally getting it straightened out, I'm happy for you. I noticed the two specs from the 1st and 2nd time you went in are quite different, especially the front toe. The 1st time front total toe was +1.0 (!), which is ridiculously excessive. Your experiment proves my educated theory that your adjustable arm will generate improved + rear camber on our CX-5s. -1.2 rear camber angles with a 3 1/4" drop is outstanding! [emoji106]
As far as the 3D printout, the alignment tech could have printed that out verbatim if he knew which button to press on the alignment computer, but it's not standard to do for every customer, as that printout uses a lot of ink versus the simple before/after angle list in your other posts above.
First time, the shop's boss did it, maybe the alignment guy wasn't in (I'm guessing here) and he did not want to lose me. But, he was keep congratulating me, about those arms that I have made.
Yesterday, another guy was there and when he looked at the old numbers and the printout from Skorpio, he instantly said, that something is wrong and there is still a lot of adjustment there.
I'm happy, that I don't have to make the camber arms.
I also have to thank to Kevin, from K-Mac for his idea on which arm to modify.
Yesterday, another guy was there and when he looked at the old numbers and the printout from Skorpio, he instantly said, that something is wrong and there is still a lot of adjustment there.
I'm happy, that I don't have to make the camber arms.
I also have to thank to Kevin, from K-Mac for his idea on which arm to modify.
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Make no mistake, the arms you made ARE camber arms. Like I mentioned above, if Mazda officially call their adjustment toe adjustment, the other one you made are called "camber" adjustment. But I know what you meant, I just don't want to confuse future readers [emoji6]
Now I'm done with this(finally) and need to move on, to other projects. I'm thinking about picking up a 73' and up VW Superbeetle(1303)(maybe a Karmann Ghia, if I'm lucky), and putting a Subaru WRX(maybe STI) engine in it, or putting the paddle shifter kit in my car. Which one should I do?
Something like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIeSavaAlVE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQ89wnTK8iQ&list=PL04827C5461A12BCD&index=1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ht04RwcRPbg
Something like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIeSavaAlVE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQ89wnTK8iQ&list=PL04827C5461A12BCD&index=1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ht04RwcRPbg
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Ok can some give me the cliff notes version of this thread? If I go and order up the h&r lowering springs and install them what other part(s) are needed to make sure camber stays within specs? Any pics of these custom modified tow arms? Are the ones from hardtack going to work the same way. Will the hard race row arm adjust camber enough for a moderate drop? Feeling a bit confused after reading this thread.
Maybe someone could post up a good "how-to" on what is needed to properly lower the cx-5
Maybe someone could post up a good "how-to" on what is needed to properly lower the cx-5
But.... if your rear camber is out of specs, or anywhere near -2.0 (which is possible, as these cars come with a lot of negative camber out the gate for better magazine handling numbers), getting camber arms like the Hardrace, or modifying your stock arms like Tibimaki did (which is identical to the Hardrace part in engineering) is a good idea, and he has proved it will move your camber.
It couldn't hurt to also buy smaller camber bolts for the front struts so you can get that perfectly in specs, or -1.0 or less, too. Or, if you're crafty like me or Tibi, make friends with a good technician and ask him for smaller bolts to fit into the CX-5's strut-to-spindle holes and get them for free (techs normally have a bunch around from prior jobs).
Another option is to take out one bolt from your lower strut, go to Fastenal or any bolt company(don't drive your CX-5 with the bolt out), and get two (one for each side) grade 8 or 10 bolts and nuts identical but with a smaller diameter, and you have your own "front camber kit". Put the big bolt back in and give the smaller bolts to the tech to install. So, here's my list for completing a nearly fully adjustable CX-5-
1. Homemade or Hardrace or similar rear camber arms
2. Front strut bolts
3.a good technician who knows his sh*t and explain in detail what you have done and make sure those extra features get adjusted.
Note: if you get all the parts bought/modified before or at the time you install springs, this can all be installed at the same time as the spring install, saving time and money[emoji106]
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- San Antonio, Texas
- :
- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
The part that Hardrace is selling for toe adjustment can be used to adjust camber, how much (+ or -, and even if they will get into spec) is unknown, as they only published toe #'s. I am not personally aware of any owner of that item to get feedback. Supposedly, by mid July they are supposed to be releasing an arm specified for camber adjustment, using the upper laterl link vs the lower lateral link that their toe arm (or tibi's camber adjustment arm) uses.
Also found this on the hardrace website a picture of one of their booths.. wtf is that on the mid pipe?? another exhaust!?
