callphy 's [Build thread?!]

:
03 MSP OJ
aye

i am noob here(scratch) first car in my life, first time trying to mod a car XD

only had 1 semester of auto mechanic lessons while i was still in high school, basicly noob level

took her home around Oct 14, 12

126k km , stock (brought with ABS light on, dealer replaced swaybar bushing and endlink) obtained safety and emission certificate for it.

with Ontario tax total cost of $7350CAD (pricy, but thats average dealer price around here...)

Canadian Model Spicy Orange MSP

Parts Installed
brandless, double din DVD/GPS multi-media (ebay mounting bracket doesnt fit.... too tight. gonna trim the walls lil bit to complete)
ebay metalmegatch, custom made Aluminum floor mat(slightly smaller than expected, like 1-2cm smaller)


Parts Received
********** billet alum. engine mount 66Aduro (waiting to grab a jack and stand kit from canadiantire or walmart)
RetrofitSource, projector (any black paint suggestion for spraying headlights?)
Corksport, FMIC + HKS flange (on sale $499+101 hks flange)(my mistake for that wrong flange location. gonna relocate MAF, and ordering a HKS flange silicone adapter, need to cut spot for MAF too)
Corksport, HKS SSQV4 ($128)
Corksport, skid tray ($179)
Corksport, Stainless Steel clutch line($18)
ebay, mesh grille 72+shipping
ebay, headlight eye lid
ebay SlimBlast, HID bulb kit 35w,6000k $39
Optima RedTop size35 battery (Walmart $198)
TWM 2" shorter shifter (+bushing $215 shipped, use TWMship4free coupon)
SickSpeed oil catch can (35+shipping)


Parts Ordered (still on the way)
Corksport, HKS type-1 timer ($135)
Samco, radiator Hose kit ($119)
jayracing, Fuel rail - black (GB $175)
ssqv 19mm recirculation fitting(thought 19mm would keep the bov open longer and make longer hisshing sound?) (30+20shipp, dam i hate shipping fee)
4mm,6mm, 19mm, 30mm silicone tubes.


Parts still on sellers' hand

NGK copper spark plug?
Magnecor spark plug wire(red! $70?) / Nology hotwires($200)
Yonaka samurai leather seat?($580 pair) / Sparco R100 ( bracket and rail are too expensive oO but its double lock rail)
AAC, brackets with Wilwood BBK Front and Rear kits roughly (2200-2500 for 4 bbk ?! )

505, Cold intake Airbox ($270-300? )
Mishimoto, Radiator ($290 shipped cooldirect canadian site)
Mishimoto, Fan shroud with fans
Mishimoto, Coolant overflow tank ($85)
WeaponR engine Damper ($170 protegegarage)
AEM, UEGO gauge
AEM, TRU boost (UEGO+Tru boost= $450-500)
505, Intake Manifold (on hold?)
steedspeed, exhaust manifold (used? for stock bolt-on one)
AWR, triangluated front strut tower bar ($275?)
GTspec, Trunk cage? (GB!!!!)
Rim (Enkei SR6 Bronze? 17x7.5" 40-50offset $680 or speedy lite silver/black 17x7" 45offset $548)

440cc fuel injector?
engine management? (Split Second Air Fuel Calibrators ?)
ACT street clutch?
ATP WGA
wiseco forged piston?
 

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lol i just got this msp spicy orange like 10days ago

havnt clean it yet, i'll take some photoes maybe on sunday when i get day off and wash the car slightly XD

anyway its stock one, what you expect to see? XD
 
just saw ur build thread, nice spicy with some scratch XD

i think mine is 99% stock, except the front bumper got something like a small black lip, i didnt really pay attention to it anyway, just saw it when i start planning for corksport FMIC

and some scratchSSSS too (2thumbs)
 
Yea damn tight ass parking lot at work its got 131K miles on it tho il get it all re painted eventually. main focus is all motor right now tho
 
lil busy with my work atm. didnt do much to the msp atm

but i am lil confused about the blue wire connected to the cd player (is it for factory Key-less Entry remote or cd player remote or else)

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after taking the cd player down, my keyless entry remote kind malfunction (not sure if its because the battery is low or what) the remote cant lock cars, i have to manually lock all doors before clicking lock button

i got a new DVD GPS mediaplayer installing

i dont know if i should connect this blue line to somewhere, not sure which line to connect to.

or should i just plug my cd player back in and see if keyless entry remote gonna work first?


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the bass and blue wire bundle are wrapped in black electric tape/tube. might go from fuse box toward the rear kenwood bass? not sure if bluewire goes somewhere else?
 
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The blue remote wire is a signal to turn on an accessory like an amplifier for the stereo. It has nothing to do with your alarm.
 
so this is something that related to cd player's remote right?

after i removed cd player , installing a gps dvd double din one

this become useless thing? should i just cut it and electric tape the end ?


so the remote keyless entry malfunction is just because battery is dying then?

i brought a battery charger couple days ago from walmart, tried both in vehicle and off vehicle charge

using 12v 6A for like 3 hours, the 25% charged indication light just doesnt wanna light up for me.
 
so this is something that related to cd player's remote right?

after i removed cd player , installing a gps dvd double din one

this become useless thing? should i just cut it and electric tape the end ?


so the remote keyless entry malfunction is just because battery is dying then?

i brought a battery charger couple days ago from walmart, tried both in vehicle and off vehicle charge

using 12v 6A for like 3 hours, the 25% charged indication light just doesnt wanna light up for me.


the blue wire is for an amplifier if you are running subs....It has NOTHING to do with the car or a remote for the radio....If you have an amp, there is a place on the amp for a "remote" wire....if you don't have an amp, tape the end of the blue wire off and tuck it back.....your keyless entry, there could be several things going on there....could be the battery in the keyless entry remote itself, most likely not your car battery, could be the reciever for the keyless entry not responding....does the lock button work on the door? or do you have to manually push down each lock? if the button is NOT working it could be your door switch, could be lock actuators (not likely all of them going bad at once though) I deal with drivability at work (machanic for cadillac) if you give me some more details about whats going on with the keyless entry I could be able to diag it better
 
the blue wire is for an amplifier if you are running subs....It has NOTHING to do with the car or a remote for the radio....If you have an amp, there is a place on the amp for a "remote" wire....if you don't have an amp, tape the end of the blue wire off and tuck it back.....your keyless entry, there could be several things going on there....could be the battery in the keyless entry remote itself, most likely not your car battery, could be the reciever for the keyless entry not responding....does the lock button work on the door? or do you have to manually push down each lock? if the button is NOT working it could be your door switch, could be lock actuators (not likely all of them going bad at once though) I deal with drivability at work (machanic for cadillac) if you give me some more details about whats going on with the keyless entry I could be able to diag it better

i tried to charge my vehicle battery with walmart charger XD not working.... (btw my car is sitting in garage for a week, not driven at all)

should i grab a voltage meter and check if the voltage raise after charged? or just replace a new battery?(since its 10 years old, probably time for 2nd battery replacement? )

my keyless remote works on unlocking the door, just cant lock the door (gotta manually lock it before pressing the Lock on remote in order to lock doors )
 
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i tried to charge my vehicle battery with walmart charger XD not working.... (btw my car is sitting in garage for a week, not driven at all)

should i grab a voltage meter and check if the voltage raise after charged? or just replace a new battery?(since its 10 years old, probably time for 2nd battery replacement? )

my keyless remote works on unlocking the door, just cant lock the door (gotta manually lock it before pressing the Lock on remote in order to lock doors )

Yes I would get a voltmeter and test the battery, but be aware that just because you battery tests at 12 volts or better, does not mean you have a good battery, it could have 12 volts but not supplying enough amprage to start the car or run the other componants in the car ie keyless entry....I would start with a battery to get the car running and then see if it affects the keyless entry...if you still have a problem with the keyless let me know what it's doing.....like when you unlock will ALL doors unlock or just the drivers door, when you press lock what all doors lock if any.....
 
just got home with a multimeter and a optima red top battery (11/12 means nov 2012?! LOL i saw the other one with 09/12 and one without any sticker)


deadly tired to carry this beauty on foot =,=||| altho its only 5mins walk

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first time using a multimeter LOL

this multimeter only has 1.5-12v load test, i should not use it to check load test with engine on, or check alternator?

last time i dced negative cable and reconnected it, trigers a spark and turned on the alarm system right a way. is it normal?



btw old battery is MotoMaster Eliminator from 2008, cant hold voltage anymore, always drops down to 6volts after a day or 2 with alarm system on,
 

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tired, gonna see if i can get home early tomorrow and start checking the old battery and maybe just swap it out.

got my mounting bracket for my Double din GPS DVD player, gonna finish that too,

and then gonna work on the headlights (i wanna know whats the glue/seal used to put the headlight back together. does walmart/ canadiantire sell them? i look around and dont see anything thats for sealing headlights)
 
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