Help issues with MAF Relocation.

[lisevolution]

I have my MAF relocated also and it does this... thing is that it did it before I relocated also. I'm pretty sure it's my EGR and I plan on cleaning it out this weekend with some Seafoam, also planning on doing an oil change and seafoaming the engine before I do that too...

 

[25FConv]

I did the seafoam in the engine and in the tank......it does help but i still have the weird idle......but not as frequent or as long lasting.....this ish is weird.....didnt see any idle change when i sprayed the air intake cleaner on the vacuum hoses either....completely lost now have no clue what to do next.(boom02)

I have my MAF relocated also and it does this... thing is that it did it before I relocated also. I'm pretty sure it's my EGR and I plan on cleaning it out this weekend with some Seafoam, also planning on doing an oil change and seafoaming the engine before I do that too...

 

[Matthew1785]

I did the seafoam in the engine and in the tank......it does help but i still have the weird idle......but not as frequent or as long lasting.....this ish is weird.....didnt see any idle change when i sprayed the air intake cleaner on the vacuum hoses either....completely lost now have no clue what to do next.(boom02)

maybe clean your MAF? with some MAF cleaner

There is a "how to" if you search for it. maybe its dirty

I would ask if your BOV is set to recirc but i have no idea if that would cause a weird idle

 

[25FConv]

Yeh I will clean out the MAF and hope that works.....the blow off valve was set for recirc.....but when i reloacted the MAF for some odd reason with the recirc it would stall completely....now after blowing off to the atmosphere it dont stall but like i have been saying i get the weird idle but now the idle is getting less like it will jump 3 or 4 times and then stop and then i would come to a stop light 5 mins later and samething would happen......I dont know what else it could be....

maybe clean your MAF? with some MAF cleaner

There is a "how to" if you search for it. maybe its dirty

I would ask if your BOV is set to recirc but i have no idea if that would cause a weird idle

 

[25FConv]

okay so here is an update. I cleaned the MAF sensor triple checked to make sure all the hose clamps and vacuum hoses where sealed......i diconnected the vacuum lines to the wastegate and ran air through there but it had pressure so it appears my wastegate is still in good condition......I disconnected the negative battery cable and pumped the brakes...then 10 mins later i reconnected everything...car ran fine for about 45 miles....then CEL popped back up again with P0171 code sayin Bank 1 too lean......i am guessing that my last option is to change the primary O2 sensor (which i can only assume that is the last possible thing it could be after hours of searching and reading up on this code)which will be done this week after i get it shipped to me.....are there any other reasons out there why i get that code popping up all the time and i get this rough idle bouncing up between 500 rpms and 1000rpms?????(homework)

Yeh I will clean out the MAF and hope that works.....the blow off valve was set for recirc.....but when i reloacted the MAF for some odd reason with the recirc it would stall completely....now after blowing off to the atmosphere it dont stall but like i have been saying i get the weird idle but now the idle is getting less like it will jump 3 or 4 times and then stop and then i would come to a stop light 5 mins later and samething would happen......I dont know what else it could be....

 

[PlatinumMSP]

**** man i'm stumped..... sounds like its almost time to surrender your car to the dealer

 

[orng1]

I remember my car ran real rough when the WGA was messed up, ot wouldn't stall but it felt like it wanted to then the idle would stay stuck at close to 1k then go back to normal. It'd do it in cycles as I'd be waiting for the light.

 

[PlatinumMSP]

I remember my car ran real rough when the WGA was messed up, ot wouldn't stall but it felt like it wanted to then the idle would stay stuck at close to 1k then go back to normal. It'd do it in cycles as I'd be waiting for the light.

same thing happend to me, i definatly still believe its your wga

 

[25FConv]

I thought so too. i tried testing it but it held up so its still good.....

same thing happend to me, i definatly still believe its your wga

 

[Matthew1785]

wait... i remember now! i WAS having the same idling problem as you where it would jump not as bad, but i would try replacing the 02 sensor it could very well be shot, how many miles are on the car?

 

[25FConv]

on the car 58K on the engine 33K.....I think it is the primary O2 sensor thats shot. I have one coming in this week. I will replace it and let you know.....

 

[25FConv]

WTF!?!?!? New O2 Bad????

Alright I finally got the primary Oxygen sensor changed today. I was thinking everything should be straight now......however, I was wrong. Its dumping gas again and Instead of just the p0171 CEL I also popped up a P0031 Which states that the:

P0031: H02S 11 Heater Circuit Low Input.....

I have researched online and the other posts are saying that the Oxygen sensor is bad....but how could it be? I just put a brand new one in here from someone on the forum who purchased it brand new from the dealer....


Any Ideas on what else this can be? Please help.

(bang)

 

[dirtysouth_msp]

Alright I finally got the primary Oxygen sensor changed today. I was thinking everything should be straight now......however, I was wrong. Its dumping gas again and Instead of just the p0171 CEL I also popped up a P0031 Which states that the:

P0031: H02S 11 Heater Circuit Low Input.....

I have researched online and the other posts are saying that the Oxygen sensor is bad....but how could it be? I just put a brand new one in here from someone on the forum who purchased it brand new from the dealer....


Any Ideas on what else this can be? Please help.

(bang)

Hmm, I dunno. I'm feeling extra generous today so here is a scanned image of the "Trail of Tears that ends with replacing the ecu", lol. No, seriously, this is the official diagnostic procedure for that code p0031 code.

Oh, by the way, you will need a good scanner to complete that diagnostic flow chart.

 

[Velocifero]

Hmm, I dunno. I'm feeling extra generous today so here is a scanned image of the "Trail of Tears that ends with replacing the ecu", lol. No, seriously, this is the official diagnostic procedure for that code p0031 code.

Oh, by the way, you will need a good scanner to complete that diagnostic flow chart.

DOH

 

[crashkelly]

check your plugs...i was dipping to the point of almost completely stalling then the car would rev up a little to prevent the stall...ran some iridiums one step colder and never had the problem again

 

[25FConv]

Hmm, I dunno. I'm feeling extra generous today so here is a scanned image of the "Trail of Tears that ends with replacing the ecu", lol. No, seriously, this is the official diagnostic procedure for that code p0031 code.

Oh, by the way, you will need a good scanner to complete that diagnostic flow chart.

Thank you for the Detailed diagnostic procedure for the code. I will put this to use tonight.....have you been through the same issue? if so....what was your final remedy? I have a bad feeling that I am gonna have to replace the ECU:mad: . I was hoping I was wrong, but I am getting to that point huh?

 

[25FConv]

check your plugs...i was dipping to the point of almost completely stalling then the car would rev up a little to prevent the stall...ran some iridiums one step colder and never had the problem again

I dont think it is my plugs. I put some iridiums in back in march. So I am already running one step colder...Thanks for the insite though. I will double check again though and make sure those are still good.

 

[ZenProtege]

Lesson # 1, throwing new parts at a car is a bad decision. That's the wal-mart mechanics' job anyways. There are several ways that your primary 02 sensor's function could have been evaluated that would have proven it was working properly. However, I have read that most companies build 02 sensors with the goal of them having a 75k mile lifespan.... so maybe the purchase wasn't a complete waste though unecessary. I have dealt with your problem more times than I would like to remember. I found the fault to be in a bad vac line, bad 't' tap in a stock line, hole in WG diaphram and a leak in a coupler. There was one other instance where I dealt with the problem but that had to do with a faulty LED in a boost guage depositing a little current to into the chassis ground which I doubt is your problem. From my experiences with that DTC a vacuum leak was the culprit. It was never easy to find the source (of course). Remember, for the most part any vac leak after the TB will cause a lean condition. The odds that a sensor or part is malfunctioning is probably one in one hundred. The odds are usually in favor of some other simple fault. I'm 95% confident that you have an intermittent vac. leak that you simply haven't found yet. The fact that the condition you describe is situational/conditional makes it even more likely. Best of luck. A lean condition isn't good!

 

[25FConv]

Lol well first thanks for the pwning lesson(homework) I was thinking it was a vacuum leak early on in the thread, but I have been over and over my vacuum lines spraying them with intake cleaner and zip tying away at them....but no beneficial result has yet to occur. I mean I will go through and replace all the t-connectors I have to make sure somehow they arent cracked. I checked the wastegate and had the wastegate checked....that seemed to be good. I made sure all the hose clamps on couplers and hoses was tight. Where after the TB was your leak? I will start from there again and work my way around the engine again. Thanks for the input.

Lesson # 1, throwing new parts at a car is a bad decision. That's the wal-mart mechanics' job anyways. There are several ways that your primary 02 sensor's function could have been evaluated that would have proven it was working properly. However, I have read that most companies build 02 sensors with the goal of them having a 75k mile lifespan.... so maybe the purchase wasn't a complete waste though unecessary. I have dealt with your problem more times than I would like to remember. I found the fault to be in a bad vac line, bad 't' tap in a stock line, hole in WG diaphram and a leak in a coupler. There was one other instance where I dealt with the problem but that had to do with a faulty LED in a boost guage depositing a little current to into the chassis ground which I doubt is your problem. From my experiences with that DTC a vacuum leak was the culprit. It was never easy to find the source (of course). Remember, for the most part any vac leak after the TB will cause a lean condition. The odds that a sensor or part is malfunctioning is probably one in one hundred. The odds are usually in favor of some other simple fault. I'm 95% confident that you have an intermittent vac. leak that you simply haven't found yet. The fact that the condition you describe is situational/conditional makes it even more likely. Best of luck. A lean condition isn't good!

 

[Rush]

I don't know how much help this will be, considering I've never found a solution, but ..

When I first installed my FMIC and BOV without relocating my MAF, I had the worst idle/stalling issues EVER. Then when I relocated the MAF, hooray, no more stalling! But that was two years and many mods ago.

Recently, as the weather has been warming up, I've noticed the same thing as you -- my idle will SOMETIMES spaztically dip between 500 and 1000 RPMs. I haven't the slightest idea what's causing it. I have no vacuum leaks (I've checked a bajillion times like you), and even more puzzling -- I throw no engine codes.

Now, here's something that might interest you. I USED to throw engine codes .. BEFORE I replaced my wastegate actuator. Since then, I still get the spazzy idle on occassion .. but I do NOT get the engine codes anymore.

Granted, I'm sure the rest of my mods are different than yours, so our situation might not be totally related .. but still, it's something to consider.

One question -- when you throw your CELs, are you driving your car aggressively? That's the only time that mine would throw codes -- when I was really getting on the car.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that I have the hopes that my Unichip will help with this issue. I have little doubt in my mind that the bad stock tune only contributes to ALL problems us MSPers come across.