Help issues with MAF Relocation.

[Matthew1785]

thanks man! I will wait for your return haha

I'm not even driving the car today, I have 800.00 racing harts sitting in my back seat so I'm waiting till tonight to drive the car again.

I tightened my BoV as best I could it doesn't tighten 100% it only tightens to the point that I can't unscrew it with my finger. I got a feeling I'm going to need to get a new one.

Does Greddy still sell Type S BOV's? because I got the feeling I'm going to have to shell money out for a new one, also do they already come setup to recirc?

 

[25FConv]

thanks man! I will wait for your return haha

I'm not even driving the car today, I have 800.00 racing harts sitting in my back seat so I'm waiting till tonight to drive the car again.

I tightened my BoV as best I could it doesn't tighten 100% it only tightens to the point that I can't unscrew it with my finger. I got a feeling I'm going to need to get a new one.

Does Greddy still sell Type S BOV's? because I got the feeling I'm going to have to shell money out for a new one, also do they already come setup to recirc?

Hey Mathew I am sorry for the delay had some issues I had to handle. So I closed my BOV as far as it could. it doesnt close all the way. It keeps screwing down until the diaphram is completely closed. But it DOES stop turning. I did this with an hex key, but not far enough to strip the screw. hope this helps.

As far as I know I think Greddy stopped making the Type S. I know they make a type RS though. I dont believe it is as loud as the Type S though. Nah they dont come setup to recirc.

 

[Matthew1785]

ok maybe were confused here.. the hex screw turns it to make it sound hard or soft on that hex is a nut that you use to keep it from moving, if you like i can take a picture of it..

what i am talking about is the nut that fits on top of the hex screw, its not tightening all the way or at least im not sure if its supposed to. but it sounds louder then it did before, i have the boost set to 4 PSI and it spikes to 5 and thats where im going to leave it...

My main concern is i am getting erratic idle is this due to me completely resetting the ECU and its relearning? by resetting the ECU i mean disconnect the battery and pump the brakes 5 times then reconnecting it so far i have started the car 15 times and driven almost 50 miles and no CEL *knock on wood*

 

[Matthew1785]

http://www.greddy.com/products/display/pop.php?my_img=511.jpg

see the little nut on the hex screw it doesnt tighten all the way, or is that normal?

 

[25FConv]

http://www.greddy.com/products/display/pop.php?my_img=511.jpg

see the little nut on the hex screw it doesnt tighten all the way, or is that normal?

Hmm this is interesting.....First, isnt that the Type RS? and Second my Hex Screw dont look like that. It doesnt even have a nut at the bottom....Now I am thinking could that be the cause of all my issues?

But def check out the PM i sent you if you want a the Type S BOV.

 

[Velocifero]

Hmm this is interesting.....First, isnt that the Type RS? and Second my Hex Screw dont look like that. It doesnt even have a nut at the bottom....Now I am thinking could that be the cause of all my issues?

But def check out the PM i sent you if you want a the Type S BOV.

you are right about that. it is the type RS he pictured and they are garbage. nowhere near the quality, reliability, or performance of the type s. that could be the problem right there. most people I know that have tried the RS have parted ways with it real quick like.

 

[Matthew1785]

I was giving you an example the Type S and the RS LOOK the same but are 2 different BOV's on the hex screw there I suppsed to be a little nut to tighten that hex screw only adjusts the firmness of the spring weither you want a soft blowoff sound or a high pitched blowoff sound that nut is suppose to hold that hex screw in place so it doesn't loosen.

My problem or question is, is that nut supposed to tighten completely or does it only tighten to a certain point? because I can tighten it with a wrench and it just keeps spinning but I am unable to move the nut by hand however if I tried loosening it with a wrench it loosens up very very freely.. I'm probably not making any sense about tightening or loosening so I'm explaining it the best I can.

 

[Velocifero]

I was giving you an example the Type S and the RS LOOK the same but are 2 different BOV's on the hex screw there I suppsed to be a little nut to tighten that hex screw only adjusts the firmness of the spring weither you want a soft blowoff sound or a high pitched blowoff sound that nut is suppose to hold that hex screw in place so it doesn't loosen.

My problem or question is, is that nut supposed to tighten completely or does it only tighten to a certain point? because I can tighten it with a wrench and it just keeps spinning but I am unable to move the nut by hand however if I tried loosening it with a wrench it loosens up very very freely.. I'm probably not making any sense about tightening or loosening so I'm explaining it the best I can.

The adjuster on every BOV I have seen has tightened down to a point and stop spinning and usually isn't able to be spun by hand that easily

 

[Matthew1785]

so any updates 25F i think i was able to stop the erratic idling and the CEL's havent come back.. so im pretty sure i had a leak upstream going to the MAF

The funny thing is when i had the boost turned down to 3 PSI thats when i would get the erratic idle i turned the boost back up to 6.5 PSI and the erratic idling stopped... i dont see how a MBC would cause a erratic idle when your not even in boost sitting at a stoplight...

 

[dirtysouth_msp]

so any updates 25F i think i was able to stop the erratic idling and the CEL's havent come back.. so im pretty sure i had a leak upstream going to the MAF

The funny thing is when i had the boost turned down to 3 PSI thats when i would get the erratic idle i turned the boost back up to 6.5 PSI and the erratic idling stopped... i dont see how a MBC would cause a erratic idle when your not even in boost sitting at a stoplight...

You using a Joe P MBC? What is the PSI setting of your WGA? Must be super low if your able to run 3 psi. Anyway, the Joe P is a ball and spring type MBC. Ball & spring MBCs have a bleed hole to bleed off boost pressure trapped between the MBC and WGA. The old style Joe P's had a rather large bleed hole. If the mbc was loose enough, the ball may have been pushed up far enough that bleed hole may have been exposed on the vac side of the ball. If this were the case the bleed hole could act as a vacuum leak at idle.

 

[Matthew1785]

You using a Joe P MBC? What is the PSI setting of your WGA? Must be super low if your able to run 3 psi. Anyway, the Joe P is a ball and spring type MBC. Ball & spring MBCs have a bleed hole to bleed off boost pressure trapped between the MBC and WGA. The old style Joe P's had a rather large bleed hole. If the mbc was loose enough, the ball may have been pushed up far enough that bleed hole may have been exposed on the vac side of the ball. If this were the case the bleed hole could act as a vacuum leak at idle.

im running a tial 38mm WG with the stock spring, all i know is that the erratic idle has stopped, as for the MBC it is a JoeP its the 2nd version not the 1st

 

[25FConv]

Nah no good updates with me yet. I am thinking My BOV might have been the issue cause it kept making this weird whistling noise like it was sucking in air while in idle, like the diaphram wasnt closing properly. But I think I am ruling that out.....not sure yet. I wanna get a hold of another BOV and try it. I that is the case then Problem solved. if not.....back to the drawing board. I also have a brand new O2 Sensor on order from a dealership. I tried autozone like you said but they want $258 for the primary O2 Sensor and Mazda wants $154....So hopefully that will lead to the end o this insanity.

so any updates 25F i think i was able to stop the erratic idling and the CEL's havent come back.. so im pretty sure i had a leak upstream going to the MAF

The funny thing is when i had the boost turned down to 3 PSI thats when i would get the erratic idle i turned the boost back up to 6.5 PSI and the erratic idling stopped... i dont see how a MBC would cause a erratic idle when your not even in boost sitting at a stoplight...

 

[dirtysouth_msp]

im running a tial 38mm WG with the stock spring, all i know is that the erratic idle has stopped, as for the MBC it is a JoeP its the 2nd version not the 1st

Ah, I see, didn't realize you have external wg. So you have the black in-line version with nipples pointing 180 degrees from each other, or the brass with nipples pointing 90 degrees?

I previously had one of the brass ones and the bleed hole was too big IMO. It seemed to cause a larger spike than most MBCs I've used.

Isn't that tial adjustable or only by changing the spring? If it's adjustable I'd use that.

 

[Matthew1785]

no, its adjustable without having to change the spring hence the reason i bought the JoeP MBC

 

[Matthew1785]

Nah no good updates with me yet. I am thinking My BOV might have been the issue cause it kept making this weird whistling noise like it was sucking in air while in idle, like the diaphram wasnt closing properly. But I think I am ruling that out.....not sure yet. I wanna get a hold of another BOV and try it. I that is the case then Problem solved. if not.....back to the drawing board. I also have a brand new O2 Sensor on order from a dealership. I tried autozone like you said but they want $258 for the primary O2 Sensor and Mazda wants $154....So hopefully that will lead to the end o this insanity.

no no no! my friend! go through protege garage Ken gets them for 120.00!!! but you are right its better then ******* craptastic zone

 

[Matthew1785]

Nah no good updates with me yet. I am thinking My BOV might have been the issue cause it kept making this weird whistling noise like it was sucking in air while in idle, like the diaphram wasnt closing properly. But I think I am ruling that out.....not sure yet. I wanna get a hold of another BOV and try it. I that is the case then Problem solved. if not.....back to the drawing board. I also have a brand new O2 Sensor on order from a dealership. I tried autozone like you said but they want $258 for the primary O2 Sensor and Mazda wants $154....So hopefully that will lead to the end o this insanity.

Is your BOV a true Greddy type S or is it a ebay knockoff not trying to sound offensive im just asking, maybe that could possibly be the reason.. and if MY BOV is broke which im thinking it might be on its way out the door i would prefer to pick one up from a retailer instead of Ebay, its just my personal preference

 

[25FConv]

I actually got it from tsantory on this forum. I am 99.9% sure it is. But I would like to get another type S and put it in. Thanks for the heads up with calling Ken at PG for the O2 Sensor. That completely slipped my mind.

lol Protege Garage FTW!!!

Is your BOV a true Greddy type S or is it a ebay knockoff not trying to sound offensive im just asking, maybe that could possibly be the reason.. and if MY BOV is broke which im thinking it might be on its way out the door i would prefer to pick one up from a retailer instead of Ebay, its just my personal preference

 

[GBean]

always protegegarage ftw

 

[Matthew1785]

any updates? I'm still getting an erratic idle here and there but my air filter is shot it looks horrible, so I think my erratic idle my be contributed to that so its time for a new K&N this weekend I also think later this summer I'm going to talk to ken about feeding a coolant line to the T3 I need to find a way reduce all this heatsoak!

 

[GBean]

I hadnt changed the first air filter on the car when I bought it new. It was 20K miles and it would not hold a steady idle either. K&N Oem replacement filter gave me 5 more MPG after that.