mazdarx7power
Member
i just bought a 1600 watts SPL z2x-1600 to go with the 2 15" inch subs i got in the back.... every once in a while the subs shut off, doesnt it alot more when i hit the brakes hard.... this ever happen to anyone????
shut off problems??
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mazdarx7power
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update on the amp turning off... it works great and the thump on the freakin thing jesus christ, but after about 10 to 15 mins of blasting it, they turn off.. watched it while i was cranking it and the amp light goes off, after a couple seconds it comes back on and still hits great but then off again. the power wire i took the driver side fender wall out and ran it through there... the ground i have it grounded to the seat belt bolt is that a good place for it???? where did everyone ground theres???
mazdarx7power
Member
First the amps bul s*** can't come even close to that power, 2nd the ppicture doesn't show anything. That just 1 side most DVC subs have to set of terminals per sub but incase yours doens't then running 2 4 ohm subs in parralel to that amp and bridging it is what is cuasing the problem.
mazdarx7power
Member
there not bridged....
any suggestion on how to get the amp from shutting off??
or on how to setup the amp??
im off to bed have to work early.
nightz peoples
any suggestion on how to get the amp from shutting off??
or on how to setup the amp??
im off to bed have to work early.
nightz peoples
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First of all, just a minor correction to an above post.
In order to raise the impedence, you'd have to run in series NOT parallel. 2 x 4 ohm's run in parallel produce 2 ohms. In series, they produce 8 ohms.
Secondly, it seems like your amp can output 740@4 ohms bridged. I doubt it can be stable at 2 ohms.
Third, I don't know what subs those are. But, let's assume they are DVC 4 ohm (as most subs are nowadays - or at least what most retailers try and sell). Assuming this, if you run one sub alone, it'll be at 2 ohms or 8 ohms depending on how you wire them. (parallel = 2 ohms, series = 8 ohms). So, alone, the sub won't run on the amp without probably going into protection (ie. shutting off).
Solution? Run them in series and you'll produce an impedence for 4 ohms. This will run your amp safely. Possible problem? You might be underpowering your subs. Beware of clipping....
In order to raise the impedence, you'd have to run in series NOT parallel. 2 x 4 ohm's run in parallel produce 2 ohms. In series, they produce 8 ohms.
Secondly, it seems like your amp can output 740@4 ohms bridged. I doubt it can be stable at 2 ohms.
Third, I don't know what subs those are. But, let's assume they are DVC 4 ohm (as most subs are nowadays - or at least what most retailers try and sell). Assuming this, if you run one sub alone, it'll be at 2 ohms or 8 ohms depending on how you wire them. (parallel = 2 ohms, series = 8 ohms). So, alone, the sub won't run on the amp without probably going into protection (ie. shutting off).
Solution? Run them in series and you'll produce an impedence for 4 ohms. This will run your amp safely. Possible problem? You might be underpowering your subs. Beware of clipping....
How are the subs wired to the amp? Does 1 subs + and - terminal go to the amps left + and - terminal, and the other subs + and - termial fo to the amps right channel + and -?
Do the subs have one set of terminals or 2?
What guage of power wire and ground wire are you running?
Check the wires in the box and make sure they are not touching and would have no possibility to do so.
The remote line may be shaking loose from a connection point, check them all.
There is an fuse under the hood for the power wire, correct?
Even if all the above is correct the amp may be partialy smoked or even too power hungry to work with the protege. The amp appears to be a class AB in that it is very large for the power it puts out. Moast amps these days rated at the same power are half that size as they are class D.
Class AB sub amps need alot of power to function and are not very efficient. If you have a Digital multimeter then set it to DC voltage and monitor the batteries voltage as the amps pumps. If it drops below 11 volts then that could be the problem right there.
Do the subs have one set of terminals or 2?
What guage of power wire and ground wire are you running?
Check the wires in the box and make sure they are not touching and would have no possibility to do so.
The remote line may be shaking loose from a connection point, check them all.
There is an fuse under the hood for the power wire, correct?
Even if all the above is correct the amp may be partialy smoked or even too power hungry to work with the protege. The amp appears to be a class AB in that it is very large for the power it puts out. Moast amps these days rated at the same power are half that size as they are class D.
Class AB sub amps need alot of power to function and are not very efficient. If you have a Digital multimeter then set it to DC voltage and monitor the batteries voltage as the amps pumps. If it drops below 11 volts then that could be the problem right there.
mazdarx7power
Member
i actually bought a 4 gauge set so all the wires are nice and strong. but i'll check back with you guys at about 5 pm eastern time when i get outta work. i appreciate the help guys..
mazdarx7power
Member
mazdarx7power
Member
mazdarx7power
Member
heres a pic of the settings for the amp can someone please explain to me at what position the knobs and which way the switches should go and how i should have the speaker wires setup?? also the speakers do say 4 ohms on the side of them? how do i set or know what ohms the amp is on????
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The gorund needs to be terminated by a ring terminal not just shoved under the washer. Also I can't realy tell from that pic where the ground is.
It also looks like the ground wire is a smaller guage then the power wire, both need to be 4 guage, no smaller.
The power wires at the amp should be connected by spades but if you don't have any make it as neet as possible.
It appears that you are running the subs in the only way they can be run with your amp, which should be safe. Of coarse I have to see all connections to be sure. If you could draw and draw a diagram as best as you can of all speaker wiring it might help.
I can not make out the picture of the side of the amp to help you out but The low pass selection should be made on the crossover switch and the frequency dial should be around 70 or less. The other switch may be a few thing but the other dial is certainly a gain which is usualy best at the 1 O' Clock position and if no distortion is heard then can be increased.
It also looks like the ground wire is a smaller guage then the power wire, both need to be 4 guage, no smaller.
The power wires at the amp should be connected by spades but if you don't have any make it as neet as possible.
It appears that you are running the subs in the only way they can be run with your amp, which should be safe. Of coarse I have to see all connections to be sure. If you could draw and draw a diagram as best as you can of all speaker wiring it might help.
I can not make out the picture of the side of the amp to help you out but The low pass selection should be made on the crossover switch and the frequency dial should be around 70 or less. The other switch may be a few thing but the other dial is certainly a gain which is usualy best at the 1 O' Clock position and if no distortion is heard then can be increased.
