Need help with subs

SIBalla23

ASE Certified Technician
:
2002 Mazda Protege ES
Hey, i would just like your opinions, i have this amplifier:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=1072286177806&skuId=6272829&type=product&cmp=++
Its 980 peak and 560 continuous x 1.
i have two 12" subs already that its powering, but i think they r starting to die.
So i need your opinion, would these subs work well with the amp:
http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Alpi.../sem/rpsm/oid/52372/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do
If not, then can you give a few suggestions, im also kinda on a budget, so plz keep it under $150.Any help will be greatly appreciated, thanks.
 
I would say just spend a little more and buy the type S subs instead. They are built better than the type E and come dual voice coil so you can get the right ohm load you need to to get the best power out of your amp. The type S is pretty efficient on power so you can run them off of that amp and it should be ok. One of the things you need to think of is also enclosure if you don't really need alot of space I would say go with a ported box at about 2.0cu each sub. going with the ported box willl also be benificial for you amp cause it will run more efficient being that it doesn't have to work as hard to move the speakers.
 
I'll do the qiuck version.

eD sucks

Alpine Type E = Referbed Type S

Effeciency is not a usefull measurement. Who listens at 1 meter with only 1 watt of power?

Anyone that pays $130 for a single Alpine Type E needs their head examined. You used to get two of them for that price.
For that money get a JL audio 12W0

The power acoustic amp need s 4 ohm total load so you couldmn't use 2 of that particular model of Alpine Sub. You need either two 4 ohm DVC subs or two 8 ohm SVC subs. Two 12W0-8 for example
 
ooh, yea I'd say eD can lick my chode, but really it'd jsut take them like 3months to get around to doing it, and then when they did a crappy job of it, they'd demand me more money for a decent one like I should've gottne int he first place....

the warning: http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/showthread.php?t=69863&highlight=ben+edi

when it happened to me personally:
http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/showthread.php?t=75971&highlight=ben+edi

Take the first however you will, but they're some legitimate big wigs in the industry who're upset beyond their normal professional selves.

Theri treatment of me, however I can first hand speak for. I find it entirely unprofessional and apalling that any company would treat a repeat customer who heavily advocates for them in such a manner. I garantee you I was responsible for alot fo purchases made form them, and now I can garantee you I've been responsible for many cancelled orders or dissuaded customers. I'm not going to evne get into details, jsut the fact that there was a problem and they chose to let it blowup into such an ordeal instead os simply taking care of the issue like they should've in the first place should tell you something.
 
impact said:
I would say just spend a little more and buy the type S subs instead. They are built better than the type E and come dual voice coil so you can get the right ohm load you need to to get the best power out of your amp. The type S is pretty efficient on power so you can run them off of that amp and it should be ok. One of the things you need to think of is also enclosure if you don't really need alot of space I would say go with a ported box at about 2.0cu each sub. going with the ported box willl also be benificial for you amp cause it will run more efficient being that it doesn't have to work as hard to move the speakers.
1sty said:
Effeciency is not a usefull measurement. Who listens at 1 meter with only 1 watt of power?
i think what impact meant is that if he builds this box ported it will play
alot more effiecently givin the charactisics of ported boxes..over lets say a sealed one
he is referenceing the gain of the enclosure..not the measurement of effeciency.
 
Hey, thanks 1sty, i never realized there was a difference between svc and dvc. I never took notice at that, but i finally get it now. I only looked at the ohms. This is my first car n im still a newbie to all this, but thanks for the help and to everyone else for the advice. Yo, any other suggestions for subs that can go with this amp will be appreciated, thanks.
 
1sty said:
I'll do the qiuck version.

eD sucks

Alpine Type E = Referbed Type S

Effeciency is not a usefull measurement. Who listens at 1 meter with only 1 watt of power?

Anyone that pays $130 for a single Alpine Type E needs their head examined. You used to get two of them for that price.
For that money get a JL audio 12W0

The power acoustic amp need s 4 ohm total load so you couldmn't use 2 of that particular model of Alpine Sub. You need either two 4 ohm DVC subs or two 8 ohm SVC subs. Two 12W0-8 for example
Hey now, I like my 8A from ED. Hasn't failed me "yet" and if it does I'm screwed.
 
pimpprotege69 said:
Hey now, I like my 8A from ED. Hasn't failed me "yet" and if it does I'm screwed.
Yup I've got a 12a that's functionming seemingly well at the moment myself, but DO you really think it's worth the gamble? what's it matter if you save a couple bucks right now?
 
If you are not limited to only best buy product then I would go with JL Audio. You could go with the W0 series but at the price you are looking to spend I would go with the W3V2 you could get the 12W3V2-D4 for about the price you are looking for. You'll get way more out put than the W0 and have much cleaner sounding sub. The JL subs are pretty efficient on low power compared to say Rockford. Meaning the JL will have a better response to the lower power level than the Rockford.You will also save alot of space by going with the W3 than the W0 because the W3 requires a much smaller enclosure. I have done a few cars with 2 W3 12's and a small 300 watt amp and it hits pretty good. also if you factor in the gain from having a hatchback this thing would hammer fairly well if you were to build a ported box tuned at about 35-40hz.
 
Aside from all the recommendations that everyone is giving you, the thing you need to think of is how you wnat your car to sound. The opinions that people are giving you is probably based on how they like their car to sound. The questions you should ask your self are

What type of music you listen to most example(techno,rap,country,ect)?
Do you want it to drop lows or be a hard hitting system?
How much space are you willing to give up for bass?

These would be the main things you need to figure out for your self before you let anyone decide what subs you should buy. Being you already have a budget set and you have an amp you just need to figure out how you want it to sound. It would suck if you want a system that will drop crazy lows and people are telling you to buy MTX not know what you want and you put it in you car and all it does it hit you hard a 60hz. What I getting at is let the guys know what you are looking for and I sure it will narrow down the possiblities of what you are looking for. You want to be happy with what you are buying not with something someone else is buying.
 
Well, I mostly listen to rap, r n b, and raggae. I already have subs in my trunk. They are in a bandpass box. The box takes up half of the trunk space, so nothing bigger than that i want. Plus, I'm driving a sedan, not a hatchback. The two 12s hit really good the first 2 days after installation. The car really shook, chairs felt like they were giving a nice massage, everything rattled and moved. You couldnt even really hear the lyrics to songs. Plus the gain on the amp was turned down to the minimum so the subs wouldnt die and look whats happening anyway. The brand is Dual, and it says 600rms, which is not true, cuz the amp is 560rms bridged and those subs are starting to die. They are just not hitting as hard. Right now i just have the stock speakers but do plan on changing them maybe to pioneer 4 ways. Any way, i hope this makes it easier for everyone to help me narrow down my search for subs. Thanks everyone.
 
I have one JL Audio Sub, 10w3 d4 in a small sealed box with only 300W going to it, and it hits really hard and deep. Very satisfied with it. I previously had two JL Audio Subs, 10w0 in a ported box, and I think this is just as loud, but deeper and tigher. Of course I only had half the power going to the two subs...(150w)...

Still need to finish that box...
 

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The W0 is a great entry level sub. It works great with 100-200 watts sealed, ported, or bandpass. A picky listener will think it has a flat sound but for bass heavy music such as Rap, HipHop, and Techno it can hold its own against subs twice as expensive (working with twice as much power).
 
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