Intake/exhaust-cam's/Cam-gears VS Header

tritonheat1

Banned
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06 MS6, 98 A4 1.8T Rebuilt
Ok... So what's better to get out of the Cams and Cam gear's or a 4-2-1 header. i know it'll be cheaper to get a header, but will the cam's/cam gear's perform better than the header would. BTW: my mod's are:

Injen CAI
ACT street Clutch
Indigo Flywheel
2 1/4 Piping with no/resonator
Spintech exhaust


I wanna Know what would work better????? the cam/ cam gear's with my mod's or the 4-2-1 header with my mod's. Also i was also thinking about removing the shutter valves and opening the Throttle.
 
the cams for sure, customs always bettter, wagner has some but its a big price diffrence and you get what you pay for..
 
SenorCorwin said:
the cams for sure, customs always bettter, wagner has some but its a big price diffrence and you get what you pay for..
I'm not just getting cam's. Also looking to get it with adjustable cam gear's. Does this combination, also work good on a Car with open throttle?????
 
SenorCorwin said:
yea it works thier just expensive... sunbelt.com
thanks for the info: just looking forward to cam's and cam gear direction. I know my car ain't no Honda with Vtec, but my friend's B18C1(GS-R) motor in a 95hatch with cam's,cam gear's,I/H/E...etc spank's S2000's, Camaro SS's, Stang GT's like nothing. He ran a 13.7 at the track last month with a full tank of gas and Street tire's, with a bad 3rd gear synchro!!!!!
 
cams are the best power gainer, but you wont gain much power w/o full exhaust mods. so my answer is do the header first then cams
 
I agree with twilight, having the cams in will make that part flow alot better but then with our restrictive manifolds and even more restrictive downpipes and primary cats the potenetial of the cam upgrade will be lost through this part of the exhaust system.

So a header to open up the rest of the exhaust side will allow the full potential of a cam upgrade to show.
 
thanx guy's. Just wanna make sure, b/c some guy at a performance shop "said the header would be the best direction to go first", but didn't say anything else about the cams/cam gear's!!!! See i thought it would be a good way to go, with the cam's/cam-gear's, b/c i will also be removing the shutter valve's and open up the throttle!!!!!
 
I agree. The headers will have a better effect, because for bigger cams to do much, you'll need the headers anyways, plus some good head porting.

I don't think that the V??S system butterfly vanes will help you out much. It'll mainly screw with the computer readings.
 
Ya, I don't understand. Your car can't run without a throttle plate. Your car will constantly want to be at WOT.....
 
Gen1GT said:
Ya, I don't understand. Your car can't run without a throttle plate. Your car will constantly want to be at WOT.....

I think he was talking about the dual stage intake. The VICS (I think...) opens another set of intake runners after I believe 4500 rpm. Everyone seems to be doing variable intake design for flatter torque curves.

I don't think the BPs had this in the intake design. The author wanted to do as some others on the forum have and keep that butterfly open (not the TB). Actually, now that I think about it, the MAF is way before that, so it wouldn't screw with the computer, but you'd probably lose some bottom end torque, without gaining anything in the top end.

I might do that to help my gas mileage now that I think about it...
 
You mean THIS VICS, which was pioneered on the BP?

There's no advantage to removing the butterflies on the VICS manifold. Mazda engineers aren't stupid, and at best, you'll lose torque. Next time I'm on the dyno, I'll hold the actuator open and see what the results are.
 

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Headers and cams will show the best gains...one without the other is going to be a disappointment....oh btw.... i got 30mpg with my new header...and i have an auto!!
 
Gen1GT said:
You mean THIS VICS, which was pioneered on the BP?

There's no advantage to removing the butterflies on the VICS manifold. Mazda engineers aren't stupid, and at best, you'll lose torque. Next time I'm on the dyno, I'll hold the actuator open and see what the results are.

yeah, I didn't know

and, yeah. However, since you lose torque, you should get a mileage increase on the highway, due to that. Since I get really crappy highway mileage I'm going to look into a way to open the vanes early. If anyone knows an electronic way to do that from in the car, let me know.
 
You can just install and electric actuator instead of the vacuum actuator. An aftermarket power lock actuator would do just fine.....
 
Can something like that be tied into the ECU so that it will actuate at a certain RPM?

As long as it can be mounted, and controlled, I think it's a good idea.
 
iluvmacs said:
Can something like that be tied into the ECU so that it will actuate at a certain RPM?

As long as it can be mounted, and controlled, I think it's a good idea.
LOL...it's already controlled by vacuum, which makes it operate at a certain RPM. With a stand-alone ECU, or maybe Greddy E-Manage, you can have them operate an actuator...it would be no different from operating a wastegate etc..
 
This has become a threadjack...

I know that at a certain RPM the vacuum in the manifold opens the actuator. I want to change that default rpm (I don't want to start messing with vacuum actuator design) and to be able to bypass the new default from inside the car.

Wastegate, yes, the control is the same, but with a different input sensor. Thanks.
 
i was under the impression that it was electronically controled, it just uses vacuum to open it up. ie for me at 5500rpm it allows the butterflys to open, the vacuum then opens it. before that point it'll never ever open up
 
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