Battery went completely Dead. Jump-started, now engine is shaky and weak?

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2016 Mazda CX-5 Touring
Hey all. Accidentally left the trunk open for 3 days straight and battery went completely dead. Tried a battery jump-starter and wasn't strong enough to power back up, so I got jumped from my neighbors car.
I let it run for 20 minutes and took it for a spin, Right away, I noticed the car is struggling to accelerate, the engine sounds WAY louder when accelerating, and when in idle (with engine on), the car shakes/jolts every 10-15 seconds or so.
Do you think I just need a new battery or could something else have went wrong?
 
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2018 AWD GT Premium Red/Black
Hey all. Accidentally left the trunk open for 3 days straight and battery went completely dead. Tried a battery jump-starter and wasn't strong enough to power back up, so I got jumped from my neighbors car.
I let it run for 20 minutes and took it for a spin, Right away, I noticed the car is struggling to accelerate, the engine sounds WAY louder when accelerating, and when in idle (with engine on), the car shakes/jolts every 10-15 seconds or so.
Do you think I just need a new battery or could something else have went wrong?
You might start by charging the battery. I suppose swapping in a new one is faster and they aren't that expensive.

Have you tried letting it idle with the jumper cables connected to a good battery?
 
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2016 Mazda CX-5 Touring
Hey there, Yea I let it stay on ideal for a few minutes while connected. Then I left it on for 20 more min after that.

What battery would you recommend i get?
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
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Plano, Texas, USA
Hey there, Yea I let it stay on ideal for a few minutes while connected. Then I left it on for 20 more min after that.

What battery would you recommend i get?
What is the model year of your CX-5? Or how old is your battery? If your battery still is from factory, and you have experienced some weakness on battery, you may consider to replace a 5-year-old battery.

Plenty of people get Group 35 Interstate battery from Costco for good price ($79?). But you may have trouble to put back the factory battery protection jacket back due to a little different shape on case for battery hold-down.

As for your problem, I don’t believe a new battery can help. Something could get damaged during your jump-start process. Sometimes the reset of the car computer may cause some issues at the beginning, but it will smooth out by itself eventually.
 
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2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
If it were my car I'd disconnect the battery completely and connect a battery charger to charge the battery. Once the battery is fully charged, reconnect and see what's what.
 

erhayes

Contributor
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Mazda CX-5 FWD Touring
+1 Conrad 16.5. That is exactly what I would do. Copy radio stations because you will loose then. Ed
 
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2016 Mazda CX-5 Touring
Thanks for the input guys. So I went to Autozone today. Battery reads completely fine (12v) and the alternator was fine as well.

Do you guys still recommend unplugging the battery and charging even though it reads 12 volts? Also - does the battery have to be pulled out of the car to do that?

Additionally, the car does seem to be improving slightly. No more sudden jolts/shake when in idle and engine is maybe making a little less noise. It still feels weak and loud though.
 
Q: when you jump started your car, did you connect the negative cable to a grounding point (e.g. engine block on your car), or did you connect negative terminal to negative terminal?

If you connected negative to negative, then the jump start likely messed up the electronic battery control module which can cause the sorts of problems you are experiencing. Fortunately, if you did that, it does not cause any permanent damage, but you need to go to a mechanic to have the battery control module reset.
 
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2016 Mazda CX-5 Touring
@multimut ahhh actually now that I think about it, the jump didn't work the first time when it was connected to metal, so my neighbor moved it into my negative. I usually never do this, but he said it doesn't matter (so I believed him because I am not that knowledgeable).

Is it ok to drive if this has happened? Sodoes this mean basically the battery is not working/doing it's job correctly?

Is it possible to reset myself watching a tutorial or do I have to go into mazda?

Thanks!
 
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2016 Mazda CX-5 Touring
Also, when the black negative was connected to negative on my side, I did see a small spark. Reading online, this sounds to be pretty dangerous but not sure if the spark is what fucked my battery
 
If you did negative to negative, there is no permanent damage. It's an easy fix to reset the electronic battery control module, but it's not something you can do yourself. Should not be a big cost, and doesn't take long -- all software based. You can continue to drive, but get it looked at.

The spark in theory is dangerous, as it could cause an explosion if there is a lot of gas build-up (hydrogen) from the battery. But this is highly unlikely to happen, unless you are in a closed space.
 

Chris_Top_Her

Banned
Moderator
Contributor
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San Antonio, Texas
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'15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Yikes, hope your neighbor didn't mess something up.. could have tried another metal (the strut bolt is a good choice). But just because the battery read 12v doesn't preclude it needing replacement.. but if you aren't having charging issues (no charging system light) etc idk. I will say this, if the voltage is lower, the symptoms you describe will happen. I know because my alternator went out and I had to charge my battery in the house (I did this for about 2 days) and drive carefully to maximize my range until I could replace the battery; radio fuse pulled, drl unplugged etc. If you try to go into higher cam profiles (~4000rpm +) with low voltage it will struggle as the oil valve gets a constant power to increase the oil pressure to change the cam profile. You should probably replace the battery before you end up stranded or causing (insufficient) oil related damage
 
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2014 Mazda3 S GT auto, 2008 MX5 6-speed
Did Autozone do a load test? Hopefully, that's what they did, since simply measuring 12V (as was mentioned by CTH, above) at the terminals doesn't mean the battery is in good shape.
 
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2018 CX-5 Sport
How can connecting a jumper directly to the battery terminals damage the battery control? Jumping is like temporarily putting in a new battery, no?
 

erhayes

Contributor
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Mazda CX-5 FWD Touring
Start by giving the battery a full charge with a charger. I'd disconnect the battery neg terminal while doing this. After it is fully charged, then reconnect and go from there. ed
 
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2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
Start by giving the battery a full charge with a charger. I'd disconnect the battery neg terminal while doing this. After it is fully charged, then reconnect and go from there. ed
I agree with Ed. If you're still having issues disconnect the neg battery terminal, leave the battery in the car, and charge it fully. Once that's done reconnect and see how it runs.

FYI. If your battery reads exactly 12 volts then there is, most likely, something wrong with either the charging system or the battery. A fully charged battery will read over 12 volts.

As an example. I just took my DMM (digital multimeter) out to the garage and tested the battery on my CX, it read 12.37 volts. My CX was last used on Saturday.

If I were to start the car and then test the voltage, it would be somewhere around 14 volts.


Speedboy, do you have a meter?
 
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Pueblo county CO
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CX-5 Sport 16.5 6M
I had a car that developed a defective battery. Not just run down, the car wouldn't start or run right until I removed it. Just jumping another battery to it didn't work.

The battery is an important part of the car's computer system and needs to deliver stable, clean power.
 
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