What have you done to your CX-9 today?

[sm1ke]

Disabled the auto-folding mirror function for the winter.

The Redtiger hardwire kit I installed for my dashcam has a built-in voltage display, along with an automatic shut-off to cut power to the dashcam if the voltage falls too low. I currently have it set to 12.0v. Since installing the kit, I've been checking the voltage before I start the car every morning, and it always falls below 12.0v, even when I've disconnected the dashcam overnight to prevent power draw. I tried putting the battery on a trickle charger, but after a few days it went back to doing the same thing, so the OEM battery from 2022 is definitely on it's way out. Rather than risk having to swap the battery out in -20c temps or worse, I decided to just get a new battery.

Picked up an AGM battery from a local distributor for a good price. Costco Canada's auto battery warranty is still king with 4 years free replacement and 100-months prorated, while the local place offers 3 years free replacement only. That said, Costco was $80 more expensive for an Energizer battery with the exact same specs. After charging the AGM battery fully, I swapped it in yesterday, adding some dielectric grease to the terminals after snugging them up tightly. All is well after reinitializing the power windows. Again, I went from the OEM Group 35 to a Group 24F, since it had slightly better specs for the same price. I clipped the front tabs on the battery tray for a perfect fit.

Here's the OEM battery.

Cleaned and modified battery tray:

New AGM battery installed.

 

[Fawiek]

Disabled the auto-folding mirror function for the winter.

The Redtiger hardwire kit I installed for my dashcam has a built-in voltage display, along with an automatic shut-off to cut power to the dashcam if the voltage falls too low. I currently have it set to 12.0v. Since installing the kit, I've been checking the voltage before I start the car every morning, and it always falls below 12.0v, even when I've disconnected the dashcam overnight to prevent power draw. I tried putting the battery on a trickle charger, but after a few days it went back to doing the same thing, so the OEM battery from 2022 is definitely on it's way out. Rather than risk having to swap the battery out in -20c temps or worse, I decided to just get a new battery.

Picked up an AGM battery from a local distributor for a good price. Costco Canada's auto battery warranty is still king with 4 years free replacement and 100-months prorated, while the local place offers 3 years free replacement only. That said, Costco was $80 more expensive for an Energizer battery with the exact same specs. After charging the AGM battery fully, I swapped it in yesterday, adding some dielectric grease to the terminals after snugging them up tightly. All is well after reinitializing the power windows. Again, I went from the OEM Group 35 to a Group 24F, since it had slightly better specs for the same price. I clipped the front tabs on the battery tray for a perfect fit.

Here's the OEM battery.
View attachment 378981

Cleaned and modified battery tray:
View attachment 378982

New AGM battery installed.
View attachment 378983

Looks good! Funny thing is, I just replaced my battery yesterday! It was original from 2018. The other day, I started the car twice just to move it on my driveway, I didn't run it for any significant time for the alternator to recharge. On the next start up for work the following day, the vehicle hesitated with start up and threw a CIL. Figuring it was the two starts with no recharge, I just walked with my booster pack in case. Got to work an hour later. After work, it started without issue but the CIL was still present. (P2610)

A search on Google revealed it was likely a battery not pushing the correct voltage. Not wanting to swap the battery during -20 as well, I bought the Kirkland 35.
Cleared the CIL and no issues since.

As you stated, the warranty, performance and price! I've purchased three Kirkland car batteries so far for others vehicles, no issues at all.
Thought the timing was coincidentally as I read your post.

The brackets holding my battery is badly rusted compared to yours. Then I realized you updated.
Also, your intake is still restricted by the stock plastic tubing making that tight left bend headed to the back, no?

 

[sm1ke]

Looks good! Funny thing is, I just replaced my battery yesterday! It was original from 2018. The other day, I started the car twice just to move it on my driveway, I didn't run it for any significant time for the alternator to recharge. On the next start up for work the following day, the vehicle hesitated with start up and threw a CIL. Figuring it was the two starts with no recharge, I just walked with my booster pack in case. Got to work an hour later. After work, it started without issue but the CIL was still present. (P2610)

A search on Google revealed it was likely a battery not pushing the correct voltage. Not wanting to swap the battery during -20 as well, I bought the Kirkland 35.
Cleared the CIL and no issues since.

As you stated, the warranty, performance and price! I've purchased three Kirkland car batteries so far for others vehicles, no issues at all.
Thought the timing was coincidentally as I read your post.

The brackets holding my battery is badly rusted compared to yours. Then I realized you updated.
Also, your intake is still restricted by the stock plastic tubing making that tight left bend headed to the back, no?

Lol, the battery bracket on my 2018 also started to rust by the time I traded it in. I think it was due to the corrosion from the previous lead-acid batteries it used. Our climate can be hard on batteries - paired with all the newer tech, batteries just don't last quite as long.

The battery in my wife's 2006 Civic, for example, has only been changed 2 or 3 times in 19 years. The first time I changed it was in 2014 I think, I did it in -30c temps . Replaced it with a Kirkland battery.

Yep, the intake still has some restriction at the plastic intake tubing. At the time, the CorkSport intake didn't have an option to upgrade the TIP. At this point, I'm not sure if I would upgrade to CorkSport's TIP, or just go for the BMS Stage 1 intake.

 

[Fawiek]

So with about 183k kms, had the CX9 GT since new and always used a good quality synthetic oil with regular oil change. Saw a video recently with this kid changing his EGR with less kms and boy was it gunked up! I decided to give it a try since it's really easily accessed compared to other EGRs on other vehicles I've worked on.

Just four bolts at the front, 8mm I think.

Took it out, cleaned it with throttle cleaner as it breaks down carbon deposits. I used a little brake cleaner but that didn't clean it any better. I then used my air compressor to fully dry the internals. Note, I didn't try cleaning anything beyond the EGR still attached to the engine.
I was surprised my EGR wasn't gunked up like the YT video I saw with a newer model CX9 with much less kms.

A few pictures for you to see. No error codes etc, I haven't driven it yet to notice any difference as I still need to do an oil change soon, but it couldn't hurt.
I figured this would be a good indicator to determine if carbon buildup on the valve is present. Seen a few videos with walnut being used with compressed air to clean the valve head etc. Anyone use that?
I've only ever used seafoam every so often before oil changes.

 

[Agape_365]

You will never guess what I did to my cx9 today.




Absolutely nothing just drove it another 400km