Found a really nice clean Yellow MSP at my local yard.
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I grabbed the rear calipers, MSP floor mats and door sills, and an MSP engine cover which doesn't appear to fit even remotely onto my FS-DE, so going to have to figure that out.
Both are DensoWhich brand O2 sensors? I've read some folks have bad luck with cheaper or off brand ones.
Any suggestions?
thank you, much appreciate it..If you can, buy some paint protection film (like the 3M scotchgaurd stuff) to put onto those headlights and foglights after you sand them so they don't immediately fog over. Did that on my headlights and though the PPF wasn't the cheapest and was a little challenging to apply, I think it'll be worth it in the long run to keep the headlights clean and clear!
You drive a USDM Protege5 in Japan? That's sick! Couple of people on here with P5s in other countries but not Japan that I've seen.Wow, haven't been on this forum in a loooooooooong time and this thread is still going?? OK this is what I did to my JDM Mazda RX (1.5L w/variable phase cams), with about 196,000km on it). Several weeks ago my mechanic replaced the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. The camshaft position sensor connector was broken so he had to zip tie it to keep it inserted. I bought the connector pigtail off of alibaba, cut off the old connector, soldered the wires of the new pigtail and connector, heat shrunk it, and wrapped it up. And it still runs. Yay!
The 2002 Midnight Blue MP5 that I brought over to Japan like 12 years ago is driven very sparingly (idiot drivers here here in Japan have wrecked it 2x) needed a wash, so I washed 1/2 the car. Will do the other half next week. LOL Need to find a power folding mirror solution for it...
I have to say I am not a fan of the MSP rear calipers. Had to buy a special tool to adjust the piston and you can't even do the adjustment with the caliper on the disc. How does that make sense?!Just completed a MSP rear brake swap - calipers, rotors and pads. Pretty straight forward once I had all the parts.
I did notice that. I used a pliers to rotate the pistons back and it was super easy. I guess I've heard the MSP calipers have less issues with seizing which is why I went with them.I have to say I am not a fan of the MSP rear calipers. Had to buy a special tool to adjust the piston and you can't even do the adjustment with the caliper on the disc. How does that make sense?!
I always hated how flimsy the Protege doors felt when closing, even compared to other crappy cars like 90s Fords and Hondas!For anyone in rainy areas, this job is a MUST. Making sure your vapor barriers are intact so they keep moisture out. What happens is the black sticky goo that holds the plastic onto the door will eventually stop being sticky and the plastic doesn't stick to it or it sticks to the plastic, but not the door. This is how your carpets get wet and this is why your windows fog up over night after it rains.
Also, as a bonus, I installed several pieces of audio mat to the doors and they shut with such a satisfying European “thunk” now. Should have done this years ago. Now I only have to do it on both of the MazdaSpeed Proteges.
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Lentech still makes their Street Terminator AOD valve body with all the solenoids delivered for around $600 and it is SWEET! You'll have to talk to them directly but they built one for me a few months ago even though it's not on their price list any more. Definitely more aggressive shifts at higher rpms!Next on my list is a fresh solenoid block and solenoids plus filter with Lucus trans fix to see if i can tighten up the shifts a little and get better gas mileage. Hopefully get some power back in the pedal.
For anyone else who needs to do this, I replaced the vapor barriers in my msp completely, the material that holds on the plastic sheet is butyl, and with enough time and effort you can get it off pretty cleanly with a solution like Mineral Spirit. The plastic was completely shot on my car so I got some of those paining plastic sheets from Home Depot to replace the old. Also definitely put some sound deadening in there, kilmat is a good bang forbuck, I think i went a bit overboard on mine. So, once the butyl is cleaned off, you can place the rope in its place, after that I cut a square of the new sheet out- roughly the size of the door and placed it over. Make sure you push some plastic in where the old black cavities were on the old sheet, I ended up making mine a bit too tight- however it still worked fine. You can cut the sheet along the butyl afterwards with sharp scissors. The only gripe I have about the job I did was that I forgot to take a pic of where the door handle hole was in the plastic and ended up needing to cut all along the wire to get it to work- as i made a hole way too close to the end. And I would also try to make the plastic sheet a bit looser if I could do it again as you can hear the plastic rubbing when opening one of the rear doors since I put the plastic in too tight.For anyone in rainy areas, this job is a MUST. Making sure your vapor barriers are intact so they keep moisture out. What happens is the black sticky goo that holds the plastic onto the door will eventually stop being sticky and the plastic doesn't stick to it or it sticks to the plastic, but not the door. This is how your carpets get wet and this is why your windows fog up over night after it rains.
Also, as a bonus, I installed several pieces of audio mat to the doors and they shut with such a satisfying European “thunk” now. Should have done this years ago. Now I only have to do it on both of the MazdaSpeed Proteges.
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