2016.5 CX-5 Parasitic Draw

[nfear24]

I had a issue with car starting in the morning. Nothing left on. Jump started fine. When on for a few days. So I got a new battery for the hell of it and same issues starting with new battery. I took it for repairs and they replaced the alternator. Car started fine for a few days. Then wouldnt start one morning and checked the battery and it was drained. Charged the battery and now I have been testing for a parasitic draw. I left the car sit for one hour and then unhooked the negative terminal and tested amp draw. I got a whopping 1.65 being drawn. Started unplugging fuses looking for drops. The ROOM fuse dropped it down to 1.1 amps so still high. Then I found another fuse that dropped its draw down to .65 total and that was the AT fuse. So basically the ROOM fuse and AT fuse are the devices drawing a full 1. Now Im wondering if I ever needed a new battery or alternator. Battery is at 13.2v when charged and car running it measures 14v. I guess I will take it back in and see what they say. Any other ideas here.

 

[wlong01]

When you post a question to the forum it would be a good idea to add some context.
Like what year is the car, what has been done to it, any aftermarket accessories, etc., etc. etc.
The more info the more the forum can help.

 

[nfear24]

When you post a question to the forum it would be a good idea to add some context.
Like what year is the car, what has been done to it, any aftermarket accessories, etc., etc. etc.
The more info the more the forum can help.

No accessories and everything thing stock. I posted the year and everything done to it with a new battery and alternator. Guess I just left out that no accessories are installed. Not sure what more I could have posted.

 

[wlong01]

No accessories and everything thing stock. I posted the year and everything done to it with a new battery and alternator. Guess I just left out that no accessories are installed. Not sure what more I could have posted.

Sorry, missed the 2016.5 in your title.

Are you the original owner? If so, did this just start? That vehicle is 8 years old, anything happen recently?

If you plan on sticking around add year/model to your profile, makes it easier.

 

[yrwei52]

I had a issue with car starting in the morning. Nothing left on. Jump started fine. When on for a few days. So I got a new battery for the hell of it and same issues starting with new battery. I took it for repairs and they replaced the alternator. Car started fine for a few days. Then wouldnt start one morning and checked the battery and it was drained. Charged the battery and now I have been testing for a parasitic draw. I left the car sit for one hour and then unhooked the negative terminal and tested amp draw. I got a whopping 1.65 being drawn. Started unplugging fuses looking for drops. The ROOM fuse dropped it down to 1.1 amps so still high. Then I found another fuse that dropped its draw down to .65 total and that was the AT fuse. So basically the ROOM fuse and AT fuse are the devices drawing a full 1. Now Im wondering if I ever needed a new battery or alternator. Battery is at 13.2v when charged and car running it measures 14v. I guess I will take it back in and see what they say. Any other ideas here.

How many miles?

 

[nfear24]

Sorry, missed the 2016.5 in your title.

Are you the original owner? If so, did this just start? That vehicle is 8 years old, anything happen recently?

If you plan on sticking around add year/model to your profile, makes it easier.

Im the original owner. Bought new. Outside general maintenance, never had issues with car. 75,000 miles. Nothing changed recently.

For got to put its a Grand Touring Model.

 

[wlong01]

Are you sure it's amps and not milliamps?

 

[nfear24]

Are you sure it's amps and not milliamps?

Yep Volt meter is set to a 10A scale. Even tested my wifes car draw to see what I get there for comparison and it was only 0.1. Yesterday I consistently got 1.65A draw on my Mazda after sitting an hour. Some crazy reason today Im getting a whoppon 2.9A draw when sitting for an hour.
Actually just like this video here is what an example how im measuring.

How To Perform a Parasitic Draw Test - EricTheCarGuy

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/This video has been a long timing coming and is one of the most requested things I get is about batteries going dead overnight s...

www.youtube.com

 

[wlong01]

Does your CX-5 have the auto lift gate? Not sure if it was even available in 2016 but there were some problems reported with the liftgates draining the battery. Not sure of what year.

Also anything plugged into USB ports?

 

[nfear24]

Does your CX-5 have the auto lift gate? Not sure if it was even available in 2016 but there were some problems reported with the liftgates draining the battery. Not sure of what year.

Also anything plugged into USB ports?

No liftgate. I read that in another forum also. I have unhooked about every wiring harness light and any thing that is accessible to unhook. I probably should make a list but I guess it may be time to just give up and return to mechanics.

 

[yrwei52]

Yep Volt meter is set to a 10A scale. Even tested my wifes car draw to see what I get there for comparison and it was only 0.1. Yesterday I consistently got 1.65A draw on my Mazda after sitting an hour. Some crazy reason today Im getting a whoppon 2.9A draw when sitting for an hour.
Actually just like this video here is what an example how im measuring.

How To Perform a Parasitic Draw Test - EricTheCarGuy

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/This video has been a long timing coming and is one of the most requested things I get is about batteries going dead overnight s...

www.youtube.com

Finding the parasitic draw isn’t easy and it time consuming. Most car shops won’t do it or charge you a lot. I can tell you know what you’re doing to tackle this problem. Since the ROOM fuse and AT fuse dropped the current the most, you just have to trace those wires to each component based on electrical schematic and see if there’s any bad insulation or cut. Or if any components related to these 2 fuses has internal shortage. Room fuse is for several internal usages, locks, interior lights. Have you replaced the interior lights with LEDs?

Yeh I wouldn’t want to do it as it’s too much hassle.

Based on your findings you definitely don’t need a new alternator especially you have only 75,000 miles. All auto parts store can test the alternator and I’m not sure if you can return it.

Looks like you’re on the other thread with the same problem on the same 2016.5 CX-5. PM the guy and see. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[nfear24]

Finding the parasitic draw isn’t easy and it time consuming. Most car shops won’t do it or charge you a lot. I can tell you know what you’re doing to tackle this problem. Since the ROOM fuse and AT fuse dropped the current the most, you just have to trace those wires to each component based on electrical schematic and see if there’s any bad insulation or cut. Or if any components related to these 2 fuses has internal shortage. Room fuse is for several internal usages, locks, interior lights. Have you replaced the interior lights with LEDs?

Yeh I wouldn’t want to do it as it’s too much hassle.

Based on your findings you definitely don’t need a new alternator especially you have only 75,000 miles. All auto parts store can test the alternator and I’m not sure if you can return it.

Looks like you’re on the other thread with the same problem on the same 2016.5 CX-5. PM the guy and see. Good luck and keep us posted.

Yah I agree I hope the alternator wasn’t replaced without being tested. I would think they can thoroughly test it first. It’s a very good and reputable repair shop in our area and I know the owner. I just havnt contacted them back yet as they are closed over memorial weekend. Im actually a computer IT network guy so i do understand some things with troubleshooting. Thanks for all the help everyone. I will report back when i know more.

 

[nfear24]

Finding the parasitic draw isn’t easy and it time consuming. Most car shops won’t do it or charge you a lot. I can tell you know what you’re doing to tackle this problem. Since the ROOM fuse and AT fuse dropped the current the most, you just have to trace those wires to each component based on electrical schematic and see if there’s any bad insulation or cut. Or if any components related to these 2 fuses has internal shortage. Room fuse is for several internal usages, locks, interior lights. Have you replaced the interior lights with LEDs?

Yeh I wouldn’t want to do it as it’s too much hassle.

Based on your findings you definitely don’t need a new alternator especially you have only 75,000 miles. All auto parts store can test the alternator and I’m not sure if you can return it.

Looks like you’re on the other thread with the same problem on the same 2016.5 CX-5. PM the guy and see. Good luck and keep us posted.

One thing I did just notice when testing the draw just now is the speedometer needles shoot up whenever I test for a draw. Is that expected.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Any portable battery packs plugged into the 12V outlets?

 

[RedBaron]

One thing I did just notice when testing the draw just now is the speedometer needles shoot up whenever I test for a draw. Is that expected.

Wait, what? I thought you connected your meter, waited an hour and then read the current, without touching anything else? If so, how could the needles move? How would the car know? You must be re/connecting something.

 

[nfear24]

Wait, what? I thought you connected your meter, waited an hour and then read the current, without touching anything else? If so, how could the needles move? How would the car know? You must be re/connecting something.

Thats why Im asking. How thats possible and why would just hooking up my volt meter checking the amps cause the needles to jump up. Oh well car is in the shop now. Out of my minds.

Must be a wire short or something somewhere. I pulled every fuse from the drivers side door and every fuse from under the hood and cant get it to stop pulling amps killing the battery.

 

[stickerbush]

I left the car sit for one hour and then unhooked the negative terminal and tested amp draw.

Thats why Im asking. How thats possible and why would just hooking up my volt meter checking the amps cause the needles to jump up. Oh well car is in the shop now. Out of my minds.

You disconnected the ground from the negative terminal on the battery to hook up your meter. When you reconnected the ground all the modules were re-energized and the speedometer needles moved. You need to wait at least one hour AFTER hooking up your meter before taking any current measurements.

 

[wlong01]

We await what the shop finds. Is it a Mazda dealer or Indy shop?

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

I keep this tool around for current draw issues. It can be had for around $100. Same thing as the meter method but don’t have to pull the fuses

Amp Hound 2 - Cal-Van Tools

The Amp Hound 2 is a designated Amp meter for a safe and convenient method to determine real time readings of current and amps in fused circuit without removing the fuse. Convenient and easy adapters that attach to a fuse or just touch the probes to the top of the fuse for an amp reading. A...

cal-vantools.com

Amp Hound 2 Automotive Amp Meter for Fused Circuits

Amp Hound 2 Automotive Amp Meter for Fused Circuits by Cal-Van

www.aeswave.com

 

[N7turbo]

I keep this tool around for current draw issues. It can be had for around $100. Same thing as the meter method but don’t have to pull the fuses

Amp Hound 2 - Cal-Van Tools

The Amp Hound 2 is a designated Amp meter for a safe and convenient method to determine real time readings of current and amps in fused circuit without removing the fuse. Convenient and easy adapters that attach to a fuse or just touch the probes to the top of the fuse for an amp reading. A...

cal-vantools.com

Interesting. There has to be a way we can source those fuse adapters to use with our $25 Amazon multimeter.