Yes, mine lists the PYY1-10-SJ0C. Hopefully it's a good one. I do see the tsb I downloaded awhile back has the part listed as SJOA as the replacement part. So is mine the 3rd revision of 4? Is the 4th revision a letter 'D'?
Poll 2.5T Coolant Leak/Engine Replacement
- Thread starter arock712
- Start date
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- South Carolina
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- 12 MZ5 13 CX-5
I had a small leak on my 2.5 Mazda5 coming from a failed O-ring on the thermostat housing. I caught it because I'm *meticulous* on my maintenance. I check coolant and oil level every fill-up, so no engine replacement.
Also, I have a Kenwood stereo with an iDataLink Maestro RR interface, so I have full gauges on the screen of my stereo, instead of just an idiot light on the instrument cluster.
Also, I have a Kenwood stereo with an iDataLink Maestro RR interface, so I have full gauges on the screen of my stereo, instead of just an idiot light on the instrument cluster.
SJOA was actually #2 on the revisions. SJOC was the latest and greatest according to my Mazda guy. #4 I think? There's also an updated exhaust gasket which actually is the biggest Factor in preventing this from happening again they're saying.
About 100,000 2nd gen CX-9's were sold in the US before Mazda modified the engine design to hopefully resolve this issue. I suspect if this was as wide spread as the forums would suggest, dealers would be bogged down with a ton of engine replacements. I see tons of CX-9's on the road and barely any in for service at my nearby Mazda dealer. Just my observation.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
I believe no matter how low the statistics is to the cracked cylinder head on the 2.5T, this’s in fact a major repair and costs a lot of money for those without warranty. Nobody wants to face this problem without warranty. But it potentially could happen to anybody who has a 2.5T, however how low the possibility is. I myself wouldn’t want an engine with a possible ticking time bomb due to a weak cylinder head design which is serious enough Mazda has to modified it several times.
My problem was coolant leak at the cylinder head. My car is a 2018 with only 53,300 miles. I was informed my entire engine will need to be replaced.
Agreed. It weighs on my mind. My post was simply to suggest that the prominence of this issue is statistically far from that measured by the forum. Kinda stating the obvious anyway.
So I wonder if the trapped air you mentioned could do this. I've been checking the coolant level everyday since getting the car back last week. After topping the coolant to full myself it has just stayed at that level more or less. Today the level dropped 4 inches or so from full. Seems like a significant drop to me. I don't think I smell any coolant leaking out (though I don't really trust my sense of smell) and now I'm wondering what is going on. I guess I'll just keep looking at levels since I don't have the ability to check under the car.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Are you topping off with Mazda’s FL-22 coolant? How many miles have you driven your CX-9 since you got the car back? Have you driven the car on the highway for some miles with engine coolant temperature gauge at the middle, and set the heater at higher temperature like 78°F?
-Topped off with Mazda coolant
-Driven maybe 150 miles or less since getting car back
-About half of those miles were on the highway and did see the temperature gauge being in the middle like normal
-Never set heater above 78. Been warm here so mostly so running colder AC
You really need to set the heater to MAX or whatever the equivalent is, roll the windows down, and drive the car a bit. The heater core and associated piping/hoses can hold a lot of air. Revving the engine and cornering can help move the air pockets around and eventually out of the cooling system.
Ok, gave it whirl with your and yrwei's parameters. After topping off the coolant to full this morning did as much of the heater driving I could for my commute. Topped off to full with engine cold and just saw the full level dropped a hair with engine fully warm. Hopefully it worked out more air pockets rather than a leak. I'll keep monitoring and hopefully the levels will hold somewhere. Otherwise, I guess its back to the dealership.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
IMO the coolant level should be stabilized long ago with 150 miles driven. Once you turn the heater on to the max and drive a big more, the coolant level should really be stabilized at the “F” mark in the reservoir. Hopefully it’ll stay that way for you.
Just want to make sure, your Mazda coolant does say “FL-22” on the label, right?
Yup! From the dealership so unless they swapped bottle contents for something else, should be the real deal.
Dropped off the CX9 on Friday as I saw the coolant level lower again after topping it off a 2nd time. Got a call today that they determined it was trapped air after all so they did a full flush. They don't detect any leaks, but I'll be watching my car like a hawk for sure. Wish there was some coolant level monitor/gauge I could have installed.
Also, my front dash has developed a weird creaking/crackling noise in the front dash after they fixed the cylinder head. Only pops up when the weather gets warmer. So its quiet in the mornings and sounds like a geiger counter in the afternoons. They are trying to nail that down now.
Once I get that car back, I hope this is the last of the cylinder head drama. I really like the cx9 and want to keep it until the wheels fall off.
Also, my front dash has developed a weird creaking/crackling noise in the front dash after they fixed the cylinder head. Only pops up when the weather gets warmer. So its quiet in the mornings and sounds like a geiger counter in the afternoons. They are trying to nail that down now.
Once I get that car back, I hope this is the last of the cylinder head drama. I really like the cx9 and want to keep it until the wheels fall off.
Cowl Bolts? Ask them, there is a TSB on that
Will do
Pretty sure those 12 bolts and the cowl panel fwd of the windshield gets pulled to pull exhaust to pull head so they are gunna shine you off on that. They will probably tell you those 12 bolts got torqued to the required 29ft-lbs on reassembly. If you got 12 mm wrench you can check them yourself.
