Cost to replace brake pads and rotors on 2011 CX-9

Rockauto literally has combo kits including all 4 rotors and pads for $300. Or piece them together yourself for $40 a rotor and $40 pad sets for $250 or less. A job like this is MAXIMUM 30 minutes per corner taking your time. 5 hours labor? Lmfao.
 
Just to mention one thing on the DIY route. Caliper bolts and rotor screws are one thing but the caliper carrier bolts can be difficult on an older vehicle, particularly in the salt-zones. I'm not saying they are insurmountable, but they can add an additional layer of difficulty to what seems to be a simple job.
 
Just to mention one thing on the DIY route. Caliper bolts and rotor screws are one thing but the caliper carrier bolts can be difficult on an older vehicle, particularly in the salt-zones. I'm not saying they are insurmountable, but they can add an additional layer of difficulty to what seems to be a simple job.
Generally the procedure is spray it with liquid wrench or WD40 and then to squarely and firmly hit the end of the bolt with a 3-5 lb sledge hammer. Then use a 5 point only socket with at least a 12inch breaker bar firmly;) on the bolt. 99% this works.
We get lots of Reno Neveda customers coming over the treated highway during the winter months.
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I would recommend NOT read into what some "claim" the speed at which they can do a service of any kind. Or to compare one shop to another. Speed serving any aspect of repair means a high chance of "mucking" something up. Doing it correctly not only means cleaning all the parts removed that need to be reinstalled and in some case treating bolt with lock tight or aniti- sieze . On brakes DIYs should always allow an afternoon without watching the clock.
 
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I think Tribe intended to write "6 point socket." A common 12 point socket doesn't have as much surface area contacting the hex points and can round off the bolt head. I find WD-40 to be one of the weaker penetrants. B'laster PB or Kroil has worked better for me. If a bolt or nut is well rusted in, yes, apply penetrant and give it a good knock (don't break anything) with a heavy hammer. A 16 oz ball pein works just as well as a 3#'er. Clean any exposed threads with a wire brush. Back it out a bit, add more penetrant, screw it in most of the way, back it out a bit more, clean, add penetrant, run it in, back it out a bit more, etc., etc. Don't just try to force it out and gall the threads.
 
Hello,


What would be an acceptable cost to replace brake pads and rotors on all 4 wheels? Nothing facying just OEM parts.

AAA is asking for $800 but I don't have yet another quote to compare.
$300-500 for parts (depending on what is needed) and about the same in labour.



They informed me that re-surfacing the rotors is not an option. I never had to re-surface rotors on any car that I owned but they say they recommend do it together with the pads.

Do you replace rotors every time you replace pads?
If rotors can be turned, turn them. If they can't be turned, replace them.
 
If rotors can be turned, turn them. If they can't be turned, replace them.
Rotors have a minimum thickness spec that is shown in a service manual (which I don't have). If they can be resurfaced and not go be low the minimum thickness, then turning is a good option. As noted above, current brake rotors are often made as thin and light as possible to save weight, thus leaving little material to be able to remove in a resurfacing and stay above the minimum.

Rotors are a wear item. At some point they'll need to be renewed. The minimum thickness is the limit.
 
Rotors have a minimum thickness spec that is shown in a service manual (which I don't have). If they can be resurfaced and not go be low the minimum thickness, then turning is a good option. As noted above, current brake rotors are often made as thin and light as possible to save weight, thus leaving little material to be able to remove in a resurfacing and stay above the minimum.

Rotors are a wear item. At some point they'll need to be renewed. The minimum thickness is the limit.
Correct. That is what I said, right? LOL
 
Not worth it to spend the time or the money to turn rotors today. They're disposable for little more. Not to mention the downtime and additional vehicle needed to trek back and forth. New quality rotors are also coated or painted for rust prevention and look nicer much longer. A thin worn rotor won't absorb heat properly which will lead to hot spots and "warping" (though they don't actually warp) with pad material sticking creating pulsation and the need to do the job again much sooner. Replace the rotors for a better job and longevity.
 
Not worth it to spend the time or the money to turn rotors today.
4 new rotors: $300.
4 rotors turned to be as good as new: $40

If pissing away $260 for absolutely no reason whatsoever is good with you, then knock yourself out.

For most people who ain't got it like that, we'll save that $260 all day, every day.
 
4 new rotors: $300.
4 rotors turned to be as good as new: $40

If pissing away $260 for absolutely no reason whatsoever is good with you, then knock yourself out.

For most people who ain't got it like that, we'll save that $260 all day, every day.
Um rotors can be had for as little as $30 a piece. No idea where you are shopping but go check rockauto.com and see for yourself. $10 to turn a rotor was 15 years ago pricing lol. Like I said, $250 all in brand new everything.
 
Um rotors can be had for as little as $30 a piece. No idea where you are shopping but go check rockauto.com and see for yourself. Like I said, $250 all in brand new everything.
Yeah, garbage rotors made out of Chinesium are that cheap.

And even then, you are comparing $120 for trash Chinese rotors to $40 for OEM Mazda rotors. I'll take original Mazda parts at 1/3rd the price of literal garbage any day of the week.
 
Yeah, garbage rotors made out of Chinesium are that cheap.

And even then, you are comparing $120 for trash Chinese rotors to $40 for OEM Mazda rotors. I'll take original Mazda parts at 1/3rd the price of literal garbage any day of the week.
Uh no, they are brand name and warranted as such. You think all parts on your Mazda are made in Japan? Try again. Open your hood and look around. China parts stamped on many items. First gen Mazdas...yup all Ford and yup parts made everywhere. The only thing that is a major contributing factor to a Japanese brand quality is a product actually being assembled in Japan. Parts come from all over the world. That is where Major companies have quality control standards and implement checks at factories where they are produced. Most everything today is made in a place other than where you live. It all depends on the brand. OEM doesn't necessarily mean better and certainly nowhere near worth the price they try to hock it for thinking people are stupid, but you do you.
 
You still didn't take into account you're paying $120 for the cheapest aftermarket junk you can find (which incidentally is why YOU can't turn YOUR rotors), vs $40 for OEM.

But hey, you can't hide it when you got money to burn, huh?
 
Decent Centric rotors are $40 each. OEM rotors are around $70 online. I am unable to determine who the OEM manufacturer is for the Mazda parts so I can't figure out how much of a premium Mazda is adding just for putting their name on the parts. However, if the markup is anything like what Mazda applies for things like spark plugs, the OEM parts are likely no better than the $40 Centrics.

It's possible to go a little cheaper than the Centrics or a lot more expensive than OEM. However, I don't really see the point of drilled, slotted, or cryogenically treated rotors on these vehicles.

A shop will charge $20 to turn a rotor or so these days. Plus, you have to wait while they are turned, and your time is worth something...

All in all, I'd just spend the extra $80 on new Centrics to save the time and have all new parts, but that's me.
 
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I am unable to determine who the OEM manufacturer is for the Mazda parts

ATE is the OEM for pads, I've always assumed they make the rotors, too.

However, I don't really see the point of drilled, slotted, or cryogenically treated rotors on these vehicles.

That's because even actual race cars don't use that drilled crap, and the only race cars I can think of that uses slotted is NASCAR, the very races where brakes are hardly used!

A shop will charge $20 to turn a rotor or so these days.

O'Reilly Auto is $10. And, if they find out that they can't turn them correctly, they will put that towards new rotors.

All in all, I'd just spend the extra $80 on new Centrics to save the time and have all new parts, but that's me.

Extra $120, you mean.
 
Orielly's prices vary by location. And the quality of the job is also variable. You don't have to Google very long to find pictures of botched rotor resurfacing jobs performed by the guy at the local Orielly's.

You can quibble on the premium to get new rotors, and certainly, the cheapest way home is to resurface the rotors (or just blow that step off completely - the shade tree mechanic in my neighborhood did the "fingernail test" and if the rotor passed that, it never came off the car). However, it's worth it for me to not have to remove all 4 rotors, run an errand to the shop to get them turned, and then return home to finish the job. Plus, pulling all 4 rotors simultaneously requires more than the number of decent jackstands I currently own. I've never had occasion to remove all the wheels at once. I suppose one could work around this but again, this just adds time and complication to the job and my time is worth something.
 
Another option is to buy new rotors and put them on. Take the old ones to be resurfaced (if they can be) then keep them for the next time you need rotors. I did this with my last ride, and when I swapped the winter tires, I swapped rotors too.
 
Dude, buy more jackstands! I rotate my tires when I change my oil every 5,000. It's an easy and free way to make your tires last a long time.

My jackstands are made by US Jack, and they are the last stands that are made in the USA. That was important to me after the Harbor Freight fiasco. Plus, they are Mil-spec. Cheap? No. But my life is worth the extra couple bucks. I have a 3 ton and a 6 ton pair.
 
Another option is to buy new rotors and put them on. Take the old ones to be resurfaced (if they can be) then keep them for the next time you need rotors. I did this with my last ride, and when I swapped the winter tires, I swapped rotors too.
That's actually a pretty damned good idea!
 
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