Questions for my next Service Appointment

[ColoradoDriver]

I need to get my oil changed in about 500 miles. For oil changes, I've been following schedule 2 maintenance every 5k miles.

This past year I have been trying to get better at taking care of my vehicle. That has ranged from claying and waxing the exterior which I never did for like 4 years, among other things. About the only things I have done religiously (occasionally over 5k miles, but always under 7.5k) was oil changes and I always keep up on tire rotations. Had my cabin air filter changed around 30k miles. I am replacing it again today when I go get it out of the mail after work. Rear brakes replaced about 52k-ish miles? Maybe 54k, don't recall exactly.

I am at 61k miles now.

Looking at the schedule 2 maintenance guide there are a couple of things that I have questions about.

I am not very car savvy so I don't know what rear differential oil is. I've never had it changed. The manual states that under certain circumstances you want to replace it at 30k miles. If you for the most part don't fall under those conditions do you then not change it??? Do I just leave it alone then? Manual doesn't seem to state what to do if you don't do those things.

Engine coolant says 120k miles, so I will leave it alone, levels seem to be fine when they inspect.

I know the jury is out on this one, but since I just passed my 60k powertrain warranty, what should I do about my transmission fluid? Leave it alone? Drain and fill? I don't want to start another thread that gets locked on that front, but it's something I am really thinking hard about.

Anything else I should be looking at?

I plan to own and drive this car forever. My last vehicle had 300k miles on it before I bought the CX-5 and it was a damn Jeep. I just want to make sure I am doing everything I need to to hopefully get that lifetime out of my CX-5 as well. I'm not into buying new cars or trading every few years.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Kaps]

Nothing is lifelong. Tx fluid will get dirty over time. Also from many BMW forums I realized if you did it late that caused tranny failures as the gunk etc came loose and damaged the interior of the transmission. You have a narrow window-if you want you can get it done. I for sure will be doing one at 60k miles. Remember lifelong is 5 years 60k miles for most manufacturers.
I have a strong feeling that CX5 drivetrain will last 250k miles unless you had the bad tranny from mazda. For that reason alone I will get it replaced to give it a fitting 2nd home for many miles.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

Nothing is lifelong. Tx fluid will get dirty over time. Also from many BMW forums I realized if you did it late that caused tranny failures as the gunk etc came loose and damaged the interior of the transmission. You have a narrow window-if you want you can get it done. I for sure will be doing one at 60k miles. Remember lifelong is 5 years 60k miles for most manufacturers.
I have a strong feeling that CX5 drivetrain will last 250k miles unless you had the bad tranny from mazda. For that reason alone I will get it replaced to give it a fitting 2nd home for many miles.

Thanks Kaps. More and more that was my thinking on the meaning of "lifetime" as well. But with so many differing opinions, I am in the analysis paralysis a bit.

 

[Anchorman]

I’m familiar with the RAV4 which uses the same transfer and rear axle arrangement. They insist that they oils are changed every 2 years or 20k and they have virtually no problems. I certainly would want it out by 60k.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

I’m familiar with the RAV4 which uses the same transfer and rear axle arrangement. They insist that they oils are changed every 2 years or 20k and they have virtually no problems. I certainly would want it out by 60k.

Thank you, sounds like a plan.

 

[yugrus]

If you drop your transmission pan and look at the magnet, you'd be glad you did...

 

[Puyapim]

I’ll have to agree as well, especially if you want to keep the vehicle for the long run.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

Thanks guys. Sounds like that's settled.

Local dealer wants $260 to do the transmission.

How hard would it be to do myself?

 

[Puyapim]

Thanks guys. Sounds like that's settled.

Local dealer wants $260 to do the transmission.

How hard would it be to do myself?

I think the fluid itself is pricey. $260 doesn’t sound like a bad deal at all if they are using Mazda fluid which I would double check on.

 

[wlong01]

In my case I will do the rear diff fluid (and front transfer case, if it doesn't share the tranny fluid) at 30k.
Trans fluid at 50k.

 

[yugrus]

There are posts from the member around, with pictures. It would help to have a hoist, but is doable in the driveway, if careful. Not a rocket surgery. Get new fluid, filter, silicon gasket maker, solvent (brake clean will do), and the place to wash the pan. It is messy.

If just drain/refill without dropping the pan, there's nothing to it. However, very little would be accomplished, as the crude on the magnet is still there.

 

[isketerol]

Thanks guys. Sounds like that's settled.

Local dealer wants $260 to do the transmission.

How hard would it be to do myself?

The question might be how messy will it be without the right pans and cleanup products? I'm inclined to let the dealer do these things and I'm inclined to treat the car nicely to make it last a long time.

 

[yugrus]

I know there are good and knowledgeable apprentices at the dealer who can do a quality job dropping the pan for you. Unfortunately, through my years of automotive business ownership I haven't got to personally know one...
If you think that the head honcho tech will do this for you, you are mistaken.

 

[Unobtanium]

Nothing is lifelong. Tx fluid will get dirty over time. Also from many BMW forums I realized if you did it late that caused tranny failures as the gunk etc came loose and damaged the interior of the transmission. You have a narrow window-if you want you can get it done. I for sure will be doing one at 60k miles. Remember lifelong is 5 years 60k miles for most manufacturers.
I have a strong feeling that CX5 drivetrain will last 250k miles unless you had the bad tranny from mazda. For that reason alone I will get it replaced to give it a fitting 2nd home for many miles.

The oil analysis showed at 67k miles the wear metals and viscosity and flashpoint of the Mazda fluid were still just fine. That is the only actual data point anyone has yet generated.

 

[Kaps]

The oil analysis showed at 67k miles the wear metals and viscosity and flashpoint of the Mazda fluid were still just fine. That is the only actual data point anyone has yet generated.

Oil gets changed every 10k miles. Plus don't expect much metals at 67k miles. How many miles since oil change.

 

[bmninada]

Thanks guys. Sounds like that's settled.

Local dealer wants $260 to do the transmission.

How hard would it be to do myself?

In my area (trust me very pricey .. NY prices) dealer quotes $130. Drain and fill. $300 for complete flush but you have to leave car overnight and comes with ATF new filter and new pan gasket, pans dropped and cleaned.
They will NOT do it at all unless your car crosses the 60k mark. I tried to cajole them to drain and fill. Nada, Zilch. Strict instruction from Mazda. Do NOT touch ATF fluid at all, at least as long as powertrain warrany is applicable.

In response to your other points - rear differential oil MUST be changed (as per Mazda's published schedule for 2016) at around 30k miles. The front transfer case should be changed if it was submerged under water. However, the verdict here (in this forum) is to still go ahead and do it (front transfer case along with rear diff oil) when changing rear diff oik as both are inter-linked.

My strong suggestion - if you have not done it - please replace your brake fluid. There's so service schedule for the same but ideally everyone should strive to replace brake fluid every 2 years or 30,000 miles (approx.). Just my personal take.

 

[Unobtanium]

Oil gets changed every 10k miles. Plus don't expect much metals at 67k miles. How many miles since oil change.

67k miles as stated. Did you read the thread? It re enforced my belief that atf color in the skyactiv is like oil color in a diesel...doesn't matter. Also that the oem atf should be good for the life of the rest of the powertrain.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

In my area (trust me very pricey .. NY prices) dealer quotes $130. Drain and fill. $300 for complete flush but you have to leave car overnight and comes with ATF new filter and new pan gasket, pans dropped and cleaned.
They will NOT do it at all unless your car crosses the 60k mark. I tried to cajole them to drain and fill. Nada, Zilch. Strict instruction from Mazda. Do NOT touch ATF fluid at all, at least as long as powertrain warrany is applicable.

In response to your other points - rear differential oil MUST be changed (as per Mazda's published schedule for 2016) at around 30k miles. The front transfer case should be changed if it was submerged under water. However, the verdict here (in this forum) is to still go ahead and do it (front transfer case along with rear diff oil) when changing rear diff oik as both are inter-linked.

My strong suggestion - if you have not done it - please replace your brake oil. There's so service schedule for the same but ideally everyone should strive to replace brake oil every 2 years or 30,000 miles (approx.). Just my personal take.

Are you referring to brake fluid? That was replaced when I got my rear brakes done.

As for the rest...thanks, I will take that under consideration as well. May have to stagger some of the services. Starting to add up

 

[Anchorman]

I don’t how these people can look you in the face and quote these prices. Both the transfer box and rear diff just need a plug taking out of the bottom and half a litre or so of oil adding. It might be better to get just as much as is necessary to keep the service record but get a good local garage to do the rest.

Btw, most dealers will negotiate if you dig in with them. Threaten to take your business elsewhere.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

I don’t how these people can look you in the face and quote these prices. Both the transfer box and rear diff just need a plug taking out of the bottom and half a litre or so of oil adding. It might be better to get just as much as is necessary to keep the service record but get a good local garage to do the rest.

Btw, most dealers will negotiate if you dig in with them. Threaten to take your business elsewhere.

Thanks Anchorman. I will do that.