What have you done to your MSP today?

[destineal]

Crybaby! Mazdaspeed forums are ===> way!!! Get outta here!!! :'''(

 

[Preferio]

Lol

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[BOOSTR]

Two Seafoam treatments, oil & filter change switching to Mobil Super High Mileage conventional. (136,249 miles)

 

[Preferio]

Going to remove the plugs and cabin filters for inspection. Replace if needed. Previous owner did an oil change about 2,000 miles ago. He was using T6 and I'll do the same.

Its got a rattle from the rear suspension. Previous owner installed new OEM struts thinking that was the noise- it wasn't. It sounds like the sway bar. Going to check that out before it rains this morning.

Yes, I know this isn't the MS3 lounge, but whatever.

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[Dpwhitehead1]

I got a corksport exhaust, 81mm from ctb2024 and a titanium wing. Car is going to go into a running mode after I R&R my brothers civic engine.

 

[hornsfan10609]

I tried to get some coils and stuff off him but it all sold! I don't get on this site enough anymore.

ilovewheels, wish you would've kept that msp! i did drive my wife's cousin's rsx last week and i can understand your switch haha

hornsfan, i totally agree on the cable shifter. there's a big disconnect while driving the car. it feels a lot like the shifters on arcade games lol.

The shifter, the steering feel, the suspension. It all feels less connected.

 

[ilovewheels]

ilovewheels, wish you would've kept that msp! i did drive my wife's cousin's rsx last week and i can understand your switch haha

hornsfan, i totally agree on the cable shifter. there's a big disconnect while driving the car. it feels a lot like the shifters on arcade games lol.

You live and you learn I guess. I did hold on to the oem lip/sides/ and rear lip though lol. I eventually gave the lip away to a friend who drives a black MSP . Anyone local need sides and a rear lip haha

 

[bwalt]

Anyone know what the happened with the orange virus ecu chip? It was on their site for a few weeks and now it's gone.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

Anyone know what the happened with the orange virus ecu chip? It was on their site for a few weeks and now it's gone.

Gone the guy got butt hurt and scraped the project

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[bwalt]

Gone the guy got butt hurt and scraped the project

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Damn that sucks. I was really stoked to try it out on my buddies MSP.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

Damn that sucks. I was really stoked to try it out on my buddies MSP.

Me too. He still has my ecus

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[FORZWIN]

Replaced my engine a few weeks back, broke everything in and have been romping on it a bit. I thought everything was well sorted until I started seeing oil under the car. Looks to being weeping from the two long bolts that attach the midpan to the block near the bellhousing. I removed the bolts and confirmed there was oil on the shaft of the bolt, though the inside of the pan was dry, strange. My only guess is the rear main seal (new) failed; looks like the motor will be coming back out soon.

Other than that, when running well, the pull is strong and overall is feeling pretty good. I'm wondering if my knock sensor is bad (also new) the car runs amazing when cold but once it warms up it goes bi-polar as to whether it's going to pull or just suck all of the timing out and bog. This car man...so much promise and yet so far from it...

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

Replaced my engine a few weeks back, broke everything in and have been romping on it a bit. I thought everything was well sorted until I started seeing oil under the car. Looks to being weeping from the two long bolts that attach the midpan to the block near the bellhousing. I removed the bolts and confirmed there was oil on the shaft of the bolt, though the inside of the pan was dry, strange. My only guess is the rear main seal (new) failed; looks like the motor will be coming back out soon.

Other than that, when running well, the pull is strong and overall is feeling pretty good. I'm wondering if my knock sensor is bad (also new) the car runs amazing when cold but once it warms up it goes bi-polar as to whether it's going to pull or just suck all of the timing out and bog. This car man...so much promise and yet so far from it...

If your main seal was out at all you would have oil coming out of your transmission bell housing.
Do you have the car tuned?
You could also have a vac leak that shows its self when everything expands from heat. My money is on a tune though.

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[FORZWIN]

If your main seal was out at all you would have oil coming out of your transmission bell housing.
Do you have the car tuned?
You could also have a vac leak that shows its self when everything expands from heat. My money is on a tune though.

Thanks for the feedback! The block plate is also wet with oil, but the oil is not pooling there. I assumed the oil was passing through the block plate...or that the issue was on the bottom of the RMS plate. I'll see if I can get a picture of the situation.

The car has not been tuned, and you're absolutely right that it needs it; I've been telling myself that for many years now. I guess much of the issue is hard to convey through the forum, but a case scenario from this morning:
...Approaching a slower vehicle, rolled on the throttle to pass, using maybe 50% throttle, and I start to see boost (~5psi) but it's not going anywhere, you can feel the timing being pulled almost as soon as it hits boost. I immediately let off the gas and try it again, still rolling on the throttle, still roughly 50% throttle and it pulls strong.

This is the behavior I battle with every day. Sometimes it will pull strong every time, others it just won't, through the remainder of the day. It doesn't seem to matter what the ambient temp/humidity is, whether it's raining, day or night. The only outlier is that it doesn't happen when the engine is cold, which is why I thought it to be knock sensor related, since the ECU isn't polling the knock sensor until the coolant temp is at operating temperature. My vacuum numbers look good per the gauge ~23 in/Hg, but I'll double check the hoses.

Given that, the car has always had hesitation, but never to this extent. It was always more/less followed the weather. I've changed a lot of things recently, JDM engine, lots of new (replacement) parts, so this could just be a new situation normal.

I'm debating on the tune, the car will be in need of a turbo soon, and the stock manifold is starting to show signs of cracking. I'm staring at potentially a lot of money in my future.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

Thanks for the feedback! The block plate is also wet with oil, but the oil is not pooling there. I assumed the oil was passing through the block plate...or that the issue was on the bottom of the RMS plate. I'll see if I can get a picture of the situation.

The car has not been tuned, and you're absolutely right that it needs it; I've been telling myself that for many years now. I guess much of the issue is hard to convey through the forum, but a case scenario from this morning:
Approaching a slower vehicle, rolled on the throttle to pass, using maybe 50% throttle, and I start to see boost (~5psi) but it's not going anywhere, you can feel the timing being pulled almost as soon as it hits boost. I immediately let off the gas and try it again, still rolling on the throttle, still roughly 50% throttle and it pulls strong. This is the behavior I battle with every day sometimes it will pull strong every time, others it just won't for the whole day. It doesn't seem to matter what the ambient temp/humidity is, whether it's raining, day or night. The only outlier is that it doesn't happen when the engine is cold, which is why I thought it to be knock sensor related, since the ECU isn't polling the knock sensor until the coolant temp is at operating temperature. My vacuum numbers look good per the gauge ~23 in/Hg, but I'll double check the hoses.

Given that, the car has always had hesitation, but never to this extent. It was always more/less followed the weather. I've changed a lot of things recently, JDM engine, lots of new (replacement) parts, so this could just be a new situation normal.

I'm debating on the tune, the car will be in need of a turbo soon, and the stock manifold is starting to show signs of cracking. I'm staring at potentially a lot of money in my future.

With the information have you given us it seems to me but you have a couple things going on number one you are using a JDM engine compression piston on a turbocharged engine is not a problem if the vehicle is turned. I recommend unichip. Your knock sensor timing could be a contributor but only because you're running higher compression. Finally my car was doing something very similar it turned out if my fuel pump was not strong enough anymore more. Are you still on the stock intercooler? Because it really fast contribute to poor performance

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[FORZWIN]

Forgive me, it was more of a rant post initially than a cry for help, but I appreciate the feedback. The power related mods are: FMIC, Intake, removed secondary Catalytic Converter, stock wastegate, BOV, boost spikes to 10psi, holds at 7psi. I think that's it, it's extremely mild.

Great point about the JDM engine, I was aware that I'd be pouring fuel on the fire that is the OEM tune by moving to the higher compression JDM engine. In the long run, for me anyway, it was the better choice. I guess what really gets me is the inconsistency, if it ran poorly all the time, that's one thing, but it waivers, and that's frustrating. But I own a protege, sooo....

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

Forgive me, it was more of a rant post initially than a cry for help, but I appreciate the feedback. The power related mods are: FMIC, Intake, removed secondary Catalytic Converter, stock wastegate, BOV, boost spikes to 10psi, holds at 7psi. I think that's it, it's extremely mild.

Great point about the JDM engine, I was aware that I'd be pouring fuel on the fire that is the OEM tune by moving to the higher compression JDM engine. In the long run, for me anyway, it was the better choice. I guess what really gets me is the inconsistency, if it ran poorly all the time, that's one thing, but it waivers, and that's frustrating. But I own a protege, sooo....

No problem. Great mods going on. Get a upgraded full pump and a tune and sounds like you will have a fun car.

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[JDuncan]

Do the Escape endlinks they said. It'll be fun they said. I must have missed where they said it would be over an inch longer than stock. I did like that they are cheaper, but they are no beefier than the correct part number Moog links going on the back, so I'd imagine the correct Moog front part would be fine and a much easier install, but whatevs. I've only done the drivers side front and back at this point as the battery on my impact seems to be taking a dump, but I'm sure it will be better than the snapped one in the rear and the bent one in the front I took off today. Passenger side tomorrow...

 

[JDuncan]

Started the passenger side endlink job this morning and learned a valuable lesson. Check the items in the boxes before you start the job. I was shipped a counterfeit Moog link for the rear. Luckily, I at least looked at it before I tore the rear apart. The difference was apparent as soon as I pulled the part out of the box. Shaft diameter was comparable to OEM and nowhere near as thick as the actual Moog. The Moog part has grease fittings and and lands to place an 18mm wrench when tightening. The counterfeit has the allen key deal in the end and no grease fittings. Upon further inspection, the part number on the box was actually printed on the flap while all of the genuine Moog parts had the part number printed on sticker labels that were applied to the flap. I did do the front first so only one more to do and I will be done with endlinks. I also took the opportunity to throw on my old anodized blue gorilla lugs as the car was missing two and had a mix and match set of short and tall acorns. The blue was a nice accent on my blue RX8, but stands out like a sore thumb against spicy orange. Not sure I dig it as it comes off a bit to ricey, but it is what I have for now.

 

[hornsfan10609]

You must have not gotten the correct escape endlinks, I installed them years ago but they were the same length as the stock links.