Chris_Top_Her
Contributor
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Hi, curious if anyone has put non OEM rotors (at least) and pads on their cx-5? Or added SS lines, or higher boiling point fluid?
Non OEM Rotors + Pads
- Thread starter Chris_Top_Her
- Start date
Too soon for my applications....but these are in my future plans. My cousin did install SS lines, ATE DOT4 fluid, with cheapo Autozone pads on his 2012 mazda3. Stock rotors. He saw considerable braking performance to satisfy his daily driving needs. His other car is a moderately modded Evo 10.
Chris personally I'd opt for blank rotors from Centric or maybe ATE, SS lines, and the said ATE DOT4 fluid. I think you'll see a difference even with cheapo pads.
Chris personally I'd opt for blank rotors from Centric or maybe ATE, SS lines, and the said ATE DOT4 fluid. I think you'll see a difference even with cheapo pads.
russiankid
Member
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- 2016 CX-5 Sport AWD
One thing I will say is to stay away from Raybestos rotors. I've had some bad luck with them warping within the first 5k miles in the past.
Chris, ya look here yet? http://www.buybrakes.com/c-80_mazda-cx5_brake-kits.aspx
Chris_Top_Her
Contributor
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Those prices seem good, asuuming they are for all 4 sides. I've heard good things about simply upgrading to SS lines.
karlmagnum
Member
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- CX-5
Centric rotors are good and have good price. For the brake pads, get semi metallics for more bite and braking power.
Ensure they are DOT approved/compliant. DOT requires a 5000 PSI burst pressure and a 325 lb pull test to make sure the ends don't come off. If not DOT approved/compliant just stick with OEM lines which are DOT approved.
Good rotor. My favorite combo is Centric rotors with Bendix pads, although this time I went OEM for the first time. Agree with russiankid about Raybestos. Never got a lot of life out them.
Chiming in... a few months back I did Centric Premium Rotors and Raybestos Professional Grade (ceramic) pads. Total cost was about $250 in parts. The feel has been at least as good as OEM, stopping power slightly increased, and no squealing. So very positive experience with this set up.
Also bought ATE 200 Dot 4 fluid but haven't got around to picking up a pressure bleeder yet.
Also bought ATE 200 Dot 4 fluid but haven't got around to picking up a pressure bleeder yet.
Follow the proper break-in instructions from the manufacturers of the pads. I think tirerack has them posted.
Chris_Top_Her
Contributor
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- San Antonio, Texas
- :
- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
This will be my first time doing a rotor/pad change. I have the svc manual to reference but do you ( or anyone else) have any tips or special tools that may come in handy? Thanks.
I would continue to use the type of brake fluid Mazda recommends. Putting in Dot 5 brake fluid with an abs system is not good. You don't want your brake fluid to start foaming as when you abs kicks in.
http://www.motorweek.org/features/goss_garage/brake_fluids_and_abs
As far as aftermarket brake parts. I used to get my brake pads at a parts house for my 626. It would alway end up with warped rotors in less than a year. I finally went to the Mazda dealer started buying their pads. For less money they had the Mazda Value pads which worked great. I never again had a warped rotor. I don't know if mazda has value pads for the CX-5
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I just did a rotor and pad replacement front and rear, almost 3 1/2 years old and 90k miles. The front pads were getting close and while the rear pads had some life left, the rotors were well worn. Nothing out of the ordinary in the replacement. Make sure you lube the slide pins well. I had one that was very stiff but was able to clean it up so it was working smooth. The biggest hassle was removing the old rusty rotors from the hub. You probably won't have that issue in TX but I didn't have the right metric bolt to pop the rotor and had to use the torch.
14mm and 17mm wrench, clamp to compress front pistons, large pliers to twist rear caliper.
There's a guy on youtube showing how to due brake rotors on a mazda and makes it look seamless (can't find it). Anyhow, I would get a brake caliper tool as opposed to clamps and a long pipe from HD to give you more leverage unbolting the caliper.
I don't think anyone would use Dot 5. Dot 4 is compatible and has a higher temperature threshold.
Hopefully I can link this here, but a guy did a terrific write up on his site which I used to the tee when doing the brakes.
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Mazda-CX-5-Rear-Disc-Brake-Pads-Replacement-Guide/index.html
Bolts were all easy to get off, used a little PB blaster I think. I also spent about 20 minutes trying to get the new pads in the caliper because it was a pain trying to get the pad wear indicator (cheap metal thing) situated in the caliper so I ended up just pulling them off the pad. I usually do maintenance before it's due and I occasionally check pads so figured it wouldn't be a big deal in my situation.
Other than that, I just used some generic brake lube and a few dabs of CRC brake quiet in between the pad and the metal shim on the pad. Overall really easy job, took me 6 hours start to finish, taking my sweet ass time in a small garage with hand tools.
