What have you done to your MSP today?

I usually pump the brake it will brings the clutch up faster.

Please explain, because that should, in now way, effect the rate at which you regain your clutch pedal. They simply share a reservoir and nothing else. What you suggest does not make sense.
 
BMCCMC_zps6c3hvhqx.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
what i had to do was mess with the rod on the pedal, push it in pretty far so the clutch had almost no play at all. then i managed to get it to pump fluid. clutch works, but ill need a hand to bleed it properly one day. i did all kinds of stuff lol. took the hardline out and primed it, made a nice big mess. but its done now and works. ill have to do it all again when i put the msp calipers on the front too heh. the braided delivery line is pretty wet from fluid though. not sure if this happened when we instlaled the BMC or not. does it have to be the braided black one or could it just be any type of hose with checmical resistance?
 
Is it possible to seperate the upper and lower parts of the.mirror without busting it? Gonna give my p5 mirrors the msp treatment.
 
Swapped out my clutch master cylinder Saturday afternoon... Hopefully it'll last more than four days this time. I also looked for an oil leak that I've got. Initially I thought it was the drain plug/oil pan, so I cleaned up the mating surface and reinstalled the plug- still leaking. Thought that it was the oil return. Checked and tightened it a bit more Saturday, but found that my oil filter was leaking, so I took care of that and cleaned the entire under side of the engine and car off, let it idle in air for 10 minutes and all was dry... Then I drive it from my shop to the house, which is ~9-miles, look underneath it and it's all wet again. I don't mean a couple of drops, I mean two quarts in 800 miles. So, I guess I'll clean it all off again and add tracer dye, road test it and inspect again.
 
^If you can tell based on my theory of leaking components, it's coming from the rear of the engine area- oil return, oil filter, oil cooler, oil drain... The front of the engine is nice and dry. It's getting on the axle and slinging it everywhere, so it makes it a pain to identify with oil everywhere.
 
Is it possible to seperate the upper and lower parts of the.mirror without busting it? Gonna give my p5 mirrors the msp treatment.

I'll let you know once this guy off the forums tries it and it either breaks or comes apart. :-P

But seriously, I believe they do, but I'm not 100% on that.
 
Lol.... I have a couple spares I can try. I messed with it a few times and couldn't figure it out. Ill.just try harder this time... possibly sacrifice one..
 
Ps, maybe your oil cooler has sprung a leak? Or the oil feed to turbo? Maybe at idle your not.making enough pressure but rev it up at stop and see what happens. Trans oil from.bad axle seal? That would make a mess for sure.
 
^If you can tell based on my theory of leaking components, it's coming from the rear of the engine area- oil return, oil filter, oil cooler, oil drain... The front of the engine is nice and dry. It's getting on the axle and slinging it everywhere, so it makes it a pain to identify with oil everywhere.

^ is a "certified" mechanic and cannot properly diagnose/fix his own car lol. Hopefully you find it before something goes BOOM. GL
 
I'm not a "mechanic"... And the tracer dye, by design , will aid in identifying the leak, but I didn't have any at the shop.
 
he's just a preferio engineer. i had a slow leak somewhere on the back of my block too after taking a peek a couple weeks ago. new to be since i never peek on that side. i never lose any oil in between changes either so meh
 
Valk, this was just posted on one of the FB pages. I'd say you'd have to remove the glass to take off the cover without damaging it.
5449a32efc139b502e73cb4b3ef73b11.jpg
 
yea but i want to seperate the actual mirror glass housing from the door housing... i dont mind leaving the glass in place and liquid masking it, but i wanted to paint the lower housing completely. if they dont come apart without breaking ill just have to paint the "Cap" as per usual.
 
well, unless someone has a solution for the snap ring that goes in under the mirror, kinda sunk on taking it apart further. i figure at minimum id have to cut the wire and resolder/crimp with bullets to reassemble. there is a metal pin that is firmly pressed into the mirror chassis and has a retainer clip on the car side that is pretty heavy duty. i dont think it could be easily removed without a specialized tool, or very precise dremel work. at least not without destroying the mirror housing.
i guess you could smash the housing to its "Closed position" and get some paint in the crack but it really would never look very good. if someone has solution for the clip, im all ears, otherwise my mirrors will be uninteresting =(
 
5mm barely shows a difference so I can't imagine another 4mm being much better
 
Back