Clutch mazda 5

edii

Member
:
Mazda 5
Greetings one and all.
I have been asked to change the clutch on a Mazda 5.

I am fairly Ok with mechanics and just wondered if this is a nightmare job.
Has anyone done one and how did it go?

I shall post more info as the job goes along but I am just wondering what I am letting myself in for.
Thanks alot.

Here's a pic of the car.
20130827_161213.webp
 
I did mine in my driveway with no more than hand tools, a floor jack, and jack stands... just make sure you give yourself enough room to split the engine and transmission case, and that you have enough supports for the car, transmission, and engine all at once. I didn't, and had a broken passenger engine mount too, so at one point I was supporting the entire engine and transmission with my forearms while trying to bolt the pressure plate into place. Not fun. If I had just a few more stands to support parts and time to completely remove the transmission, things would have been much easier. It's not a hard job if you're used to working in cramped engine bays.

FYI, I bought the Exedy stock replacement clutch off of Amazon for about $150 shipped, and it's still working great 20k miles later.
 
Thanks for replying mate, great post.

I have changed a clutch on a Peugeot 306 diesel so it won't be the first time.
What I was worried about is that on some modern cars you have to remove the sub frame to get the gearbox out.
I am happy to hear that on this car you don't.

Garages over here want about 1000 ($1600) for doing the job because they want to replace the flywheel, clutch and also the hydraulic clutch server cylinder.
I have never worked on a hydraulic clutch mechanism but it doesn't seem very hard to work on.
 
Generally when I had my clutch replaced I've also replaced rear engine seal, just to be sure.
You don't need to replace flywheel unless you drove with dead clutch for too long, often can just have it machined if it is scratched up or has hot spots.
Seems clutch slave is only $40-$50 for parts if it is needed. I'd leave it alone unless it is leaking.
 
Ok, to be fair- I didn't remove the transmission from the car- so I don't know if you have to remove the subframe or not. It DID look like I had more than enough room to get it out once the transmission mounts were unbolted, but I didn't want to disconnect all the cables to let it slide off.

I didn't replace the main seal or the flywheel- just merely gave the flywheel surface a good scrubbing with scotch-brite to clean off residue, then bolted everything back together. I have had no issues with weird vibrations, chatter, or leaking.
 
Generally when I had my clutch replaced I've also replaced rear engine seal, just to be sure.
You don't need to replace flywheel unless you drove with dead clutch for too long, often can just have it machined if it is scratched up or has hot spots.
Seems clutch slave is only $40-$50 for parts if it is needed. I'd leave it alone unless it is leaking.

Vasy, have you installed any aftermarket clutch or just OEM replacement? How much did you pay for it? Thanks a lot, Rouslan
 
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